What's the best method to base minis on washers?

[Hammers]

I, to, have now seen the light and will mix my own set of pots for various uses. Apart from saving me a few pennies I can more importantly see how it cuts at least one step from my process.

Of course - it's no secret. I often promote the technique here, because I can't stand seeing people waste all their money on 'basing paints', which are just sand, paint and PVA mixed - with about a 1000% mark-up on the cost of the raw materials! Money for nothing. Cheeky swine.

I use a mix of coarse sand and emulsion paint (whatever colour base you want to achieve) with a good dash of PVA added. Mix together in a jar to provide a kind of grainy, thick toothpaste consistency. If you find it too thin, then mix in a bit more sand. You can adjust the grade of sand too, if you want a more gritty texture. If you find it too solid to paint on easily, then add a bit more PVA.
It takes about 2 minutes to make and keeps in a jam jar forever. Just use it when you need it.

Honestly, when you buy 'Base-tex' or other proprietary 'basing paints' this is all you're getting - a mix of paint and sand. So it's cheaper to make your own - like pennies of raw material to make enough mix to base 100 figures.

Once you've painted on the mix and it's still wet, stick a few pieces of aquarium gravel in it to look like sharp rocks here and there. Or a few fine 'gritty bits' - model railway type stuff. Games Workshop sell it too. If you're worried any of this won't stick, give it a coat of white glue / PVA to seal it.

That's it. Simples.

[gauntman]

Wow!

I'm amazed so many people use so many different methods and substances to bond minis to washers...

I have found in my opinion the best type of substance.. it comes in many brand names but it's a heavy fast drying quick clear adhesive gel...

Since I started using it a few years ago, I almost completely stopped using super glue.  I use it for a lot of jobs related to terrain construction where you might normally use hot glue.

I use a dab to join the mini to the washer and then add white glue and sand flock to blend the base of the miniature with the outer edge of the washer.







I go through a tube about every two-three months.  I should buy stock in this stuff.  It's about $3.oo USD a tube.

[former user]

thank You for the advice.

It would appear the secret is the "emulsion paint"  (I guess this is simple wall paint?) that might keep the PVA from drying out too quickly - what actually ended my attempts....

saving money and a process is indeed the main thing

btw, topic once diverted, has anyone ever tried to base figures removable?
I was considering to do exactly this with my drop troops, with holes in the feet and pins on the base

[Hammers]

thank You for the advice.

It would appear the secret is the "emulsion paint"  (I guess this is simple wall paint?) that might keep the PVA from drying out too quickly - what actually ended my attempts....

saving money and a process is indeed the main thing

btw, topic once diverted, has anyone ever tried to base figures removable?
I was considering to do exactly this with my drop troops, with holes in the feet and pins on the base

That's how I am basing my harpies. I use steel piano wire rather than brass.

[former user]

steel piano wire as flying base? - inventive

I actually meant the possibility to take them off the bases
with the drop troops - I don't like the idea of rocket backpacks, so I thought abseiling rope hooked to the back
and then bases to the feet wouldn't look that good 

[cheetor]

It would appear the secret is the "emulsion paint"  (I guess this is simple wall paint?)

Emulsion is known as "latex" paint in the US I am pretty sure.  Its household wall paint that can be cleaned from a brush with water, like acrylics.

I use it in my basing mixture aswell, but I dont *think* that it has a significant effect on the drying time of the pva element.

[P_Clapham]

I've found myself using washers more often than not now, I don't care for the slope on slotta bases, and in regards to gripping the miniature....  Well I know use a series of spray gloss and matte varnishes, so they hold up under regular and even rough handling.

For slotta based figures I trim off most of the tab, leaving just a thin piece of metal going from leg to leg.  Typically I'll leave a bit of a extra tab to fit in the washer hole.  Using two part epoxy, green stuff typically I cover the tab and base with a layer of putty, then use a dull knife to texture the base.  In the case of reaper minis I'll use a small nail or pin to poke holes in the putty, mimicking the broccoli base.

After hearing about the liquid epoxy method, I'm tempted to give that a try.

[Argonor]

I glue a (1 mm thick) rare earth magnet in the hole of the washer.

That way I can store my minis in cookie tins (or cases, or whatever they are called - large round metal boxes with a lid, may also come in square forms), and don't need foams and expensive cases for storage/transport.

I do not use washers for minis made for slotta-type bases, though - I find that the added height of putting a mini with integral base on a washer makes it about as tall as one on a slotta. AND the hollow slotta-base is ideal for 2 mm magnets. Which gives a better grip for those 'heroic' scale minis that are sometimes a little massive.

[Hammers]

I glue a (1 mm thick) rare earth magnet in the hole of the washer.

Clever idea.

[Snate56]

I recently had a problem with the local store discontinuing the very size washer I needed! I had some 15mm minis and was using a 9/16" washer with an eighth inch hole. I had to get half inch washers with quarter inch holes and some of the bases on my minis were too small. I solved the problem by supergluing the washer top down to some printer card, put a tiny dab of glue in the hole to make sure it's covered. When dry I peel it off and sand the paper down to a miniscule thickness and it forms a perfect base for my minis.


SteveN

[Argonor]

I solved the problem by supergluing the washer top down to some printer card, put a tiny dab of glue in the hole to make sure it's covered. When dry I peel it off and sand the paper down to a miniscule thickness and it forms a perfect base for my minis.

I just saw somebody use the method for using 2 washers as base for cavalry - which I find absolutely brilliant - gives a nice rounded elongated base - and an idea I'm going to steal, as it works like a dream for my magnet-in-the-hole method (can even put two magnets in that way, which gives a better grip when placed in the tin).

[Darkoath]

No effort is required.  I use fender washers (little hole).  File the base on the miniature flat and use gap filling superglue to glue to the washer.  When the glue is dry I then cover over the base using bondo putty and when that is dried you can then do your bases with any type of covering you wish like sand or grit.  The miniature will not come off the fender washer even if you drop it.

Darkoath

[Ironblood]

I know this is a bit of threadomancy, but the way I get around the holes in washers for bases is to simply place a bit of clear cheap packing tape over the hole and decorate up the base as normal, then peel the tape off when everything is dried.

[Hammers]

Simple but smart. I wonder why I've never done  that.

If no one objects, I may do a compilation of the choicest bit from this thread and make it sticky...

[Centaur_Seducer]

That would be great, maybe you can make your own sticky where you list all the options? Far easier to navigate

On topic: I use laser cut bases. Yes, they have a great disadvantage if they get wet (the fibres start to tear of), but that can be sorted out with some watered down PVA.
And its far easier to attach the slottabase minis as I just cut of the bar and drill holes (which I usually do anyway to let the mini stay better on the base).