Anybody have any experience with "Army Painter"?

[gloriousbattle]

Just heard about this stuff today

http://www.thewarstore.com/ArmyPainterShadeSpray.html

Is it a "dipping" style product?  Has anyone actually used it?

Thanks

[Black Cat Bases]

Hi,

Yes it is very good, we use it alot, really brings out details, however we always brush it on rather than dipping (less wasteful, gives a much better finish and less messy!!) Need a cheap paint brush that can be thrown away afterwards.

Jo:)

[rob_the_robgoblin]

Yeah I have heard you should paint it on, for the best effects.

[Westfalia Chris]

I've never used their "shade" products for a variety of reasons (health, ease of use, and I can get similar if not equal effects using washes), but I do like their spray primers. The matt black one is OK, and the matt white is easily as good as GW, possibly better value for money (AP were a bit cheaper when I last bought them).

[rob_the_robgoblin]

My mate had terrible problems with their blue spray paint. Ruined a whole bunch of his 40k minis.

[YPU]

Read their instructions on the spray-cans, it dries so fast you need to be close, as in 20CM close.

[gloriousbattle]

Is it just "the dip" (Minwax Polyshades Tudor Satin) repachaged for wargamers, or is it something else?

[phreedh]

Is it just "the dip" (Minwax Polyshades Tudor Satin) repachaged for wargamers, or is it something else?

Pretty much... it's "optimized". 

I bought a tin a few years ago and tried it on a mini for a board game. I did the "dip and shake" version, if I was going to use a brush I could just as well use washes. It's pretty good. I didn't get stellar results, but it workd just fine. I would recommend it.

[jmilesr01]

I've used a lot of their products - I like the primers and haven't had an issue with the white, blue and green colors (only ones I've used).

I also use their dips.  I recommend that you brush it on vs the "dipping technique" shown on the videos.  It's much easier to control the shading with a brush and there isn't nearly as much wastage as there is with there is with post-dipping shaking.  I've heard you can get similar results with wood stain but haven't tried that alternative.

Hope that helps

Miles

[Doc Twilight]

Have used their products many times, and have been generally quite satisfied with them. One major problem that I have with the product is that the dip tends to trap in moisture like a sponge. This doesn't have a negative effect upon the figure/vehicle over the long term, but it -does- mean that in my experience you MUST wait AT LEAST two weeks before spray sealing them (matte sealing them, etc) otherwise you will get the notorious "fuzzing" effect typical of the use of matte/gloss sealer when used in humid environments,  but in this case irregardless of your chosen location for spray sealing.

If you prefer the satin look for your minis and don't find the spray matte to be necessary (the dip is quite a good protectant all by itself), then this won't be an issue. However, if some models are looking too shiny for your tastes then do, please, save yourself the eruption of ancestral rage that I experienced when my Spanish Civil War CTV (Italian Fascist 'Volunteers', for those unfamiliar) were sealed after being left for a full 24 hours after dipping....  The curse words that I uttered are still orbiting the planet somewhere. And some of them were even in English;)

As for handling them, they say to give them 12 hours after dipping,  but I do find that this does vary. Models that are "brushed" with the dip do tend to dry slightly more quickly, but that isn't my universal experience.

Finally, on the issue of "ruined brushes", there is no need to ruin brushes. Simply get yourself some paint thinner, or if you're like me and can't stand toxic chemicals, get yourself any of the several brands of "natural, non-toxic turpinoid" out there (in  other words - turpentine without the toxic smell or consistency) and use that like you'd use water with other paints. Cleans the brushes immediately, and works a treat.

Oh, incidentally, the dip appears to be a reformulation, and a less harsh reformulation at that, of the original "floor polish" cans used for the purpose. A more thin consistency, and no toxic smell. I still recommend wearing rubber gloves (I use surgeon's latex gloves) when using it, because it is very hard to get off the skin once it's dried. (Yes, it eventually fades off, but the primary ingredient is lanolin, which is similar to the oil in your own skin, and the two get along so well that they like to stick together for a few days.)

I know this because even the slightest whiff of a potentially dangerous smell throws my respiratory system into fits of revulsion  - which is why I never touch the floor polish stuff.


-Doc

[Col. Aubrey Bagshot]

I agree with the previous posters that the spray primers are very good indeed.
Saves time, money and gives a great finish on which to paint, and I have now used MOST of the colours....

As for the dips, as said before, you can get an almost exact same result using water based washes.... the GW ones mixed in equal amount ( black & brown ) give the same non toxic and very very matt result. They also dry very quickly... the only downside is that if you lick your brush back to a point while painting, they taste terrible!

[Argonor]

Read their instructions on the spray-cans, it dries so fast you need to be close, as in 20CM close.

Yes, and if the air is hot and dry, it dries even faster - almost ruined a batch of zeds being sprayed in the summer for me...

EDIT: Their primer seems to work best at fairly low temperatures 10-15 degrees of Celcius - at least that's my experience.

[Thom]

Great success with the leather colored primer and strong tone dip. As everyone else suggests, use an old brush to apply the dip. My only issue so far was with the chainmail metallic primer. While it looks great with the dip applied, it didn't want to take on regular paint. Perhaps this issue is isolated to the metallic primer as again, I love the leather spray primer I'm currently using on my Empire models.

[dodge]

I was talking to a guy at salute who painted the dip on his romans and celts and I must say I was impressed, he said it was halving his time on rank and file.

he just painted the lighter shade and applied the appropriate dip shade.

they looked very nice on the table top

dodge

[Argonor]

I concur that the dip is good for painting large quantities of miniatures in a short time.

I do not use it for two reasons: I do not paint armies for massed battles, and I do not like the varnish-sheen produced by the dip (which is, in effect, just varnish with pigment added) - plus, I do not like to have to apply matt varnish to mi figures. But I rarely use washes, either, preferring to layer the paint on, after I learned how to do it to a reasonable standard.

If I were to paint any large army, especially one with camo or khaki, I would probably use it.