Bits and bobs

[oldskoolrebel]

I'd like to apologise for the stupid questions that I'm about to ask.

My very talented friends have been working on a Zeppelin; I've volunteered not to ruin it work on it. I decided to take some inspiration from their valiant efforts and fleck my own (pathetically weedy) terrain making muscles. Please note that this has nothing to do with the Zeppelin! 

Please bare in mind that I'm still very new to all of this!

This is the first adobe I've even constructed (Still very much unfinished!). Made from cork tiles and filler. The construction was OK, the application of the filler was awful. I didn't dilute the filler and I think you can tell- even after sanding it still looks terrible. The roof lead me to decided that cork is terrible for using as a roof. Also I am really not feeling the paint scheme. I'm strongly considering writing this off as a test piece and trying again.

Could someone please recommend an absolute fool proof painting scheme/technique?



This standing stone is the first thing I've successfully carved from foam... I'm quite happy with the shape. obviously it is still unfinished so I've got plenty of time to ruin it!



I've also to paint a 3' by 2' desert board; I've started by undercoating it burnt umber (very close to scorched brown). Could someone give me an idea of what other colours to paint? Cheers

A final question to people who use wall paints for terrain; do you generally water the paint down or use straight out of the pot?

Cheers
Andy

[Malamute]

The Adobe looks pretty good to me. Ok, so the roof has warped and needs work, but its still pretty good, add a door and I amsure it will come to like once you put some pots or a table on the roof etc or maybe a rug.

For painting my adobe stuff I start with a base coat over the whole model inc the base. This is usually in a dark sand colour. Then wash burnt umber around the bottom of the building and the base area where the building meets the earth. This simulates, dirt, dampness etc which can  seen running around the outside. Then I wet brush on Bleached bone or similar, heavier towards the roof and less near the bottom. Finally white wet brush around the roof.
The effect I am looking for is graduated colour from dark at ground level up to white at roof height. Then I paint all exposed timbers in burnt umber wash and then drybrush them with bleached bone/off white to simulate sun dried/faded wood.
If you want to see examples look at any of the adobe stuff I have posted on the Old West board.
I use foamcore for my builds, no warping etc, the cork may not be the best material.

My whole adobe town is featured here:

http://boothillminiatures.co.uk/page10.htm

For my old west terrain boards I used houshold emulsion in a dark sand colour (same as I use to basecoat the buildings) Then wash burnt umber around stone and gravel areas, then drybrush up with lighter tones and finally off white. I don't thin the emulsion, I don't think you need to and besides I like to use it thick as it helps to bond the sand and stones to the base and hopefully gives it a bit extra protection.

http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=18775.0

Good luck looking forward to seeing the results.

[duhamel]

Malamute has already explained everything, but I added a link on a ranch that I did, this could perhaps help you

http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=11269.0

[Wirelizard]

To rescue the warping roof, consider putting wooden beams under it - matchsticks, basswood, or something similar.

The building looks good otherwise, and Malemute has good advice on painting it. For my buildings, I start with a black or dark brown basecoat, mixed roughly 50/50 right on the building with white glue. That provides a lot of extra strength, especially on foamcore or styrofoam projects. For adobe, I work up to white with a heavy tan drybrush then white, and do a brown wash along the base of the walls, where mud and dust get kicked up.

My own adobe buildings are here and onward in my perpetual terrain thread. Foamcore walls and mattboard roofs, mostly.