Worlworks Games - new docks

[Gluteus Maximus]

These look very useful - especially if your FBI agents are hunting down Alien Bounty Hunters, or if you are looking for the source of zombie incursions into your country. Maybe your Geezers' snout-smuggling activities are about to be rumbled by the Filth....:


http://www.worldworksgames.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=211&products_id=218

Combined with the Industrial set:

http://www.worldworksgames.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=149

there should be enough here for a great dockyard set-up.

At only $30 for the two, I'll be buying both sets  

Cheers,
Ian

[Pappa Midnight]

I love the World Works stuff!
This would also be ideal for for a horror game as an objective: "Get to Steve's launch to escape the zombie hordes!".........Sounds familiar.

PM

[audrey]

This would also be ideal for for a horror game as an objective: "Get to Steve's launch to escape the zombie hordes!".........Sounds familiar.

Exactly! Visions of a scenario from the Dawn of Dead remake.

[dodge]

How do these hold up to being man handled during a game?

Are they good and durable?

Dodge

[Pappa Midnight]

That's the film that got me into Horror gaming Audrey!!!! :mrgreen:

Dodge: Because they're printable PDF files you can make them as robust as you want! For buildings which can't be entered I normally make them from foamboard and cover them in printed light card.
For more complex stuff I use a reasonable thicknes card. I normally give them a quick once over with matt varnish spray ( especially if the printer ink doesn't fix well) to protect them from sweaty hands.
The good thing is if they do become damaged from heavy handling you can always print some more!!!!

PM

[dodge]

That's the film that got me into Horror gaming Audrey!!!! :mrgreen:

Dodge: Because they're printable PDF files you can make them as robust as you want! For buildings which can't be entered I normally make them from foamboard and cover them in printed light card.
For more complex stuff I use a reasonable thicknes card. I normally give them a quick once over with matt varnish spray ( especially if the printer ink doesn't fix well) to protect them from sweaty hands.
The good thing is if they do become damaged from heavy handling you can always print some more!!!!

PM

I do like the idea of that. I saw on an earlier thread from Audrey that she has a step by step guide to doing foam core & paper buildings. Maybe I'll read that and then have a crack at it. Seems a pretty cheap way of getting terrain and starting gaming quickly.

Thanks


Dodge

[Neldoreth]

Can anyone who has made these, as well as standard terrain buildings out of foam board (like this one) write a comparison? I have been looking at these for my projects but I am not sure if they would save all that much time.

Currently, I use foam core to build the buildings, which I would also do with foam-core converted card terrain. So, the only difference would be detailing. How much time is saved between printing and gluing the card stock stuff on and actually painting a detailing a building? Any insight would be appreciated!

n.

[audrey]

Can anyone who has made these, as well as standard terrain buildings out of foam board (like this one) write a comparison? I have been looking at these for my projects but I am not sure if they would save all that much time.

It really depends on the level of detail you want. I have made both types of buildings. Building foam core buidlings and painting them up (similar to the WWII buiding link you gave) can be quicker. But I am refering to a smaller sized building not one as large as the Apartment building. If you are building the paper terrain straight from the kit without mods then it should go reasonably quick as well. If you are going to modify them and use foam core like I did it does add considerable time to it. But to me the blown up WWII building you linked does not work for the look I want in a modern city board. But it works fine for WWII or Sci-fi large army battles. I want detailed interiors for my modern skirmish scale stuff like this example and this one. A number of people also like using the plasticville O scale train kits. But most of those buildings tend to look like they are from the 50's to me. In the end you need to decide on what level of detail you want and the amount of time you want to spend.