What is your favorite "brand" of Casting Resin?

[Captain Nemo]

I'm considering taking the plunge and starting up a small shop manufacturing custom sculpts and models in resin. I've only had a little experience working with resin making my own conversions and I was wondering what you guys had to say.

I plan on making 28mm scale vehicles and I have concerns about all my rivets.
(now if that's not a hint to what I'm working on then I don't know what is) 

What is the best resin in your opinion?

Are there other options I'm missing out on?

Any input is welcome.

Thanks,
Matt M.

[Captain Nemo]

I hope that I have posted this in the correct section of the forum, if not please let me know.

[CompanyB]

I suppose it would depend on where you are.  Resin from different countries has much different properties.

Also, are you doing:

gravity casting molds (open on the top)
Squish molds (two part, one fits into the other to squeeze the resin everywhere)
Standard two part molds

Do you have a pressure pot?

[Captain Nemo]

I suppose it would depend on where you are.  Resin from different countries has much different properties.

I live in the United States.

Also, are you doing:

gravity casting molds (open on the top)
Squish molds (two part, one fits into the other to squeeze the resin everywhere)
Standard two part molds

Do you have a pressure pot?

I've been looking at Vacuum Chambers and Pumps for both degassing my molds and casting resin. While they are quite expensive, I'm afraid that I might need then for the types of models I'd be casting.

As far as what kind of molds I'd be using, depends on the piece. These would be multi-part models, some parts would probably have to be 2-part molds but some could be Gravity Casting Molds. I've never had good luck with Squish Molds (I'm probably doing something wrong )

[CompanyB]

Ah, if you are in the USA, then Tap Plastics is your answer.  They have a variety of resins and casting supplies.

I've used the quick cast A&B  http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=74&

Very good results, pot life of about 5 minute, demold in 20 minutes.  Resin is light tan.  The 1/2 gallon will give you  a lot of medium (28mm tank) size models.  I've been able to get very good almost bubble free results without a pressure pot using this stuff.  With one you get even better results.

If you have super thin pieces, you can try Micromark's resins.  Resin is white.

[Hammers]

If you have super thin pieces, you can try Micromark's resins.  Resin is white.

I've tried those. They are pretty good.

[Captain Nemo]

Thanks CompanyB and Hammers!

I've used Tap Plastic's Urethane RTV Mold-Making System with good results but I've never tried their resin.
I may have to check out Micromark's resins too.

Has anyone ever used Smooth-On?

[Skrapwelder]

I have used the Smooth on resins for casting buildings and vehicles and heartily recommend it. Particularly the Smooth cast 300.


This is a multi part vehicle I cast in smooth cast 300.

I also do buildings in the same stuff you can see some examples here:
http://rotanddrivel.com/whitechapel-project.htm

Hope that helps,

Mike

[Captain Nemo]

Mike, do you use a vacuum chamber with your Smooth On?

[Skrapwelder]

I don't, as most of the molds I pour into are open faced. The car was a departure from my normal casting. The smooth on 300 has a fairly short pot life, about 7 minutes and is hard in the mold within 20 mins or faster depending on the outside temp.

[Captain Nemo]

I don't, as most of the molds I pour into are open faced.

Cool, thanks for the info.

Has anyone ever used a resin product made by Innovative Polymers Inc.? I believe Primaeval Designs uses this resign in conjunction with Smooth On's Vytaflex 20 molds. Or at least they have pictures of it on their facebook page.

[Major Weenie]

There's always 'Silpak,'

http://www.silpak.com/

They primarily sell to the entertainment industry, as in 'Hollywood.'  Prices seem comparable to the company/site already listed.  I've never needed to buy through mail order, because they have a store front in North Hollywood.  The staff is quite helpful, and will make suggestions on technique if you explain what you are trying to make.

I can remember some time ago that they had two cunning plans for vacuum chambers.  One had to do with using one of those 'vacuum pack your frozen food' products sold in mega-membership stores.  The other was to use compression, rather than vacuum.  Compression would supposedly drive the air bubbles into the center of the product, where they would not interfere with the surface of the model.

Worth looking into.  Hope this is helpful.

Regards,
MW

[Tobsen77]

Hi... I use Polyurethan resin, 4 minutes pot time in open gravity molds. I got problems with all those rivets in the beginning but since I dust the molds with baby powder before each cast everything is fine. Be sure to tap the mold from every side once the resin is poured to pop the air from all cavities.

Cheers,
Tobi

[Captain Nemo]

Thank you for all the great info gentlemen!

Hopefully in the next few months I can scrape enough funds together and get this project off the ground (...and up into the Luminiferous Æther )

[Ramshackle_Curtis]

The trouble with vac chambers and urathane is the short pot life. I cant seem to get decent casts with urathane, its either goes off too quick or else I dont vac it for long enough.

I use polyester resin. Much cheaper and kinder on the moulds, but apparently more toxic (while curing). It has a 20 min pot life and 1 to 2 hour demould time. Its any colour you want when you add dye to it.

I could not operate without a vac chamber its a must.

If you want some more advice, I would try chatting with the guy who runs Troll forged miniatures. His casting is spot on and he is always eager to give advice. He is a sceptic too. Try posting on his forum:
http://trollsforge.proboards.com/index.cgi