Board MDF Thickness

[Mr.Marx]

Hey all.

I'm thinking of getting some boards to put on my dining table to get it up to a proper war gaming size.

Basically I was wondering what the difference is between MDF and Hardboard (if there is any, in terms of use as a wargames table).

Also, what is the minimum thickness needed to support mostly metal army without structural failure, 3mm, 6mm or 12mm?

Thanks all

MM

[Dewbakuk]

Different compound materials, however with regards to which is better as a board, you need MDF. As a standard thing (at least in the UK), hardboard isn't available in thick enough pieces to support a board although you can use it with battons to add rigidity. Personally I'd use 9mm or 12mm MDF because people have a tendancy to lean on the table and generally  the board overhangs the table edge. If you don't lean on it (or are skinny) then 6mm will be fine.

[OSHIROmodels]

Pretty much what Dean says but I'd stay away from six as it can warp like a b**** in a dampish environment (not to say that nine and 12 won't but six is a bugger).

cheers

James

[Mitch K]

MDF is dense old stuff, and I would say that 12mm is as thick as you want unless it's in fairly small bits. 18mm cupboard backs are an absolute swine!

[Mr.Marx]

Thanks all. Im only worrying about thickness for reasons of costs. a 6mm thick 2'x4' board is only £6.50 where as a 12mm one would be £10+.

On that subject, is there some secret place that sells cheap MDF that I dont know about?

Cheers

MM

[OSHIROmodels]

To be honest, I wouldn't go with cost being one of the reasons to get 6mm. It's cheaper but warps so much easier you will probably have to remake your terrain again after a short while.

cheers

James

[Fitz]

If you go to a timber merchant who stocks MDF, you may be able to get cover-sheets at a reduced price (they're the sacrificial sheets used on the top and bottom of a stack of boards to protect them in transit). They won't be as clean and smooth as premium grade MDF, but if you're going to cover it with a gaming cloth that shouldn't be a big deal.

The minimum thickness you want really depends on the degree of overlap from the existing table edge. If you're going to overhang more than 350-400mm, you should be using 18mm, and I wouldn't go any lighter than 12mm in any case. A problem with thicker board is the weight -- a full 2440 x 1220mm sheet of 18mm board weighs a bit more than 40kg, which can be dangerous to manipulate on your own. However, it would be a simple matter to cut a sheet in half and add some locking lugs for use when it's over the table.

Note that raw MDF gives off formaldehyde (not a lot, but it's there), so it really should be sealed if you're going to store it inside your home. Also, the edges can be uncomfortably sharp, so it would pay to arras them well before handling the board much.

[matakishi]

My boards are 6mm MDF, had them for years, painted several times. Never warped, cracked or bent. I use 2ft by 4ft sections, deploying 1-4 depending on the size of board needed.

[Mr.Marx]

My boards are 6mm MDF, had them for years, painted several times. Never warped, cracked or bent. I use 2ft by 4ft sections, deploying 1-4 depending on the size of board needed.

hey whats your overhang like? if i can use 6mm i would like to get away with it as its so much cheaper and i'm skint

Mr.Marx

[matakishi]

I use a 2.5ft by 5ft table as a support.

[Captain Blood]

My boards are 6mm MDF, had them for years, painted several times. Never warped, cracked or bent.

Ditto. I find 6mm perfectly fine.
Most big DIY stores have a board cutting section as well, so you can basically get them cut to whatever size you want (that's what I did anyway, and I have about 15 boards in different finishes)

[Mister Rab]

As I already had a couple of grass mats and some inch-by-half-inch pine strips, I went for the timber frame approach as detailed on my blog:



I got my older lad (age 4) to give me a hand, and we both survived the process