Chipping in here with my two cents.
I've been converting metal minis for over two decades now, and have till not so long ago done so without power tools. Not for lack of trying though; I've bought the olbigatory Dremel clone, but for me, it just never worked out. The only power tool I do use now, is a small, battery powered drill I bought at Ikea some years ago, to take over some heavier duty drilling tasks from my trusty pin vice.
The other items I use, and I've done some pretty involved conversions over time, are really pretty simple tools all:
A jewelers saw, a set of needle files (flat, square, triangular, round and oval shaped), a pin vice, a larger (Stanley) knife and two scalpel type blades; one sharp and one, well, not so sharp plus several small pliers; a flat one, a side cutting one and a front cutting one. And of course the almost obligatory sculpting putty, I use ProCreate, plus the associated sculpting tool(s).
The larger cuts and amputations, I do with the jeweler's saw. With a bit of care, you can make pretty complicated cuts with several angles involved, with it. Added bonus is that you can have very good control over your cuts and also that the saw is very thin, meaning you will lose very little detail and material with the cut.
Removal of details or shaping (cut) parts to fit, I do with the blades. The large knife for the rougher work involving larger amounts to be removed, then the blunt scalpel (basically a former sharp blade that has been moved down the ladder) for the smaller stuff that still requires some force and finally the details with the sharp blade (which at that time probably still has its point not broken off). I even use this knife to dry sculpt certain recessed details into the metal.
The secret is to not cut off large chunks, but to constantly shave slivers of metal off. The thinner the sliver, the less force required and the less danger to your limbs and the less deforming of the piece in question, since you don't have to brace it against the table, a vice or what have you.
Next step is done with the needle files. Depending on the area on the miniature that needs smoothing, you'll be using the different shapes. I find I use the triangular and the oval ones almost exclusively though. Don't press down too hard when filing; you'll find the files will leave patterns in the softer metal, which you will need to remove again. So take it slow.
Then, when adding parts together, pin them using your pin vice. I've switched to a small electrical drill for the deeper and wider holes not too long ago, and I've really taken to it. Basically because of the arthritis in my hands causing increasingly more pain when using the pin vice for prolonged periods.
Always start with a pilot hole. I usually take a needle and press in a tiny hole right in the middle of where I want the final hole to be. Depending on the diameter, I will start with the final sized drill bit for small holes and for larger ones, I will step up to gradually bigger bits. The idea is the same as with the knife part; the less metal you shave off, the less force is required.
I also have a special drill bit (which actually came with the not-Dremel if I recall correctly), that has a flat head to it. It is the right diameter for the magnets I sometimes use, so once I have cut the hole for a magnet with a normal drill bit in the right diameter to the correct depth (i.e. the thickness of the magnet), I finish it off with the flat bit, so that the magnet will fit exactly in the hole (with a small dab of superglue), flush with the surface.
for pinning, I use simple paperclips bent straight. Of course you can buy dedicated brass rod etc, but these are cheaper and usually plentyful. I use two types; a larger and standard one, which have 'large' and 'standard' diameter wire.
For smaller diameter pins, I sometimes use those disposable pins they use to pin shirts to their packaging. Cut off the head and cut to length (but be careful, because those things are very hard and will spring away when cutting them!). I attach the two components and their pin with superglue. I use the gel type superglue though; gives more control and even fills small gaps, it also has a slightly longer curing time, which can be useful.
Finally, use the putty to fill any gaps that are left. Once you get the hang of it though, and your cuts become more precise, the parts will fit together better and the superglue gel is all you will really need; It dries very hard, so it can be filed again once dry. Unless you want to add details on top with the putty of course.
I hope that helps some...
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April 28, 2024, 06:04:15 AM
November 16, 2010, 11:06:08 PM
