Can I varnish pigments?

[Thunderchicken]

Hi all,

I'm adding some subtle weathering to some guttering using a rust pigment. Can I varnish it to protect it and if so what should I use?

(Not as subtle as this pic shows, that's just bad light and a crap camera.)



Ta.


 

[OSHIROmodels]

Spray varnish mate otherwise you'll upset it and move it 

I use Humbrol matt varnish. A tad expensive but certainly useful 

cheers

James

[Svennn]

I take it you are doing what I would and drybrushing the powder directly on?

I recently watched the videos on the Humbrol site for their new weathering powders and it reminded me the military modelling chaps mix it with carriers and add it wet.

[Thunderchicken]

Cheers chaps. Yes, dry brushed on. As Jimbib said, it's seems to be easy to upset (especially with my clumsy fingers).

[Momotaro]

I've successfully spray-varnished ground-up pastels brushed on to minis.  I sprayed a layer of matt varnish on to give the dust something to grip, then a layer of gloss once I'd finished the pastel weathering to make it bulletproof.  Finally, another layer of matt to dull it down again.

The camo pattern and weathering on this chap were done using pastels, and they've not come off again in 4 years' gaming:

[ink the troll]

I take it you are doing what I would and drybrushing the powder directly on?

I recently watched the videos on the Humbrol site for their new weathering powders and it reminded me the military modelling chaps mix it with carriers and add it wet.

Recently started doing something similar- I use ground up pastel chalks and mix them with Vallejo's thinner and glaze medium. Thinner + a bit of varnish seems to work as well. Helps with letting the pigment/ pastel chalk powder flow into recesses, makes it easier to apply and seals it at the same time.

That said I've also just brushed varnish over the pastel chalk dust, that only works well if you've used quite a bit of the powder or carefully dab the varnish onto the powder/ pigment and let it soak in a bit before varnishing the whole thing.
Also I've found that it's better to use gloss varnish for this first and then use mate varnish on top of that, as the mate varnish brushed onto the powder directly tends to change the colour too much.

[Bugsda]

Apparently tank modellers fix powders with a drop of rubbing alcohol.

[Thunderchicken]

Great advice gentlemen. Thank you.

I never thought of grinding pastels  .

[sundayhero]

Concerning pastels, the good ones to use as pigments are the dry expensive ones (wich are, basically, compressed pigments), not the soft pastels.   


I've got plenty of pigments, a complete range in small cute glass bottles  but I always has been too afraid to use them 

[Gunbird]

Apparently tank modellers fix powders with a drop of rubbing alcohol.

Or buy and use Pigment Fixer, all of the pigment brands have that in their collection.

[Too Bo Coo]

Or buy and use Pigment Fixer, all of the pigment brands have that in their collection.

I just started using these.  The fixers are a great way to go if you dry brush.  I have Vallejo and Mig.  I would say Mig is the better of the 2, although I have pigments from Vallejo, Mig and Secret Weapon.  All are top notch. 

So here is the easy way:
1.  Apply the dry pigment to the area you want.  You can do this as a drybrush or even a little clumpy for thicker dust, but not too heavy.
2. Mig Fixer, soak your new pointed brush bristles. 
3. With the tip touch the area just outside the pigment, and hold it a second.  The capillary action will drain the brush and soak into the pigment. 
4. You can play around with the pigment for a while till you're happy.
5. Leave to dry 24 hours.

The Vallejo is better to use if you mix them together and then apply to something like tracks, or to apply to the model first.  But I'd go with the Mig product, or the Secret Weapon when they rerelease theirs.

Hope this helps!

[Thunderchicken]

Thanks chaps. Good advice.