Tabletop Table???

[Argonor]

Yep, I thought of that, too    It may also be necessary for the legs to be positioned equidistant from the corners (depending on the length of the legs/size of the table).

But the bolts should make sure, noone pushes a leg in by accident 

I shall not be able to get the materials together and the table built for my gaming session this Sunday, but I'll see what I can manage during next week. Have to go to the hardware store to get hinges and bolts (and make them cut up some board for me for this project, and a couple of new tables).

[Moriarty]

Have a care - the table may be pushed so as to let one or more 'leglets' slide off the supporting table, to a resounding crash.

You try explaining that to my Nan!

[Argonor]

Have a care - the table may be pushed so as to let one or more 'leglets' slide off the supporting table, to a resounding crash.

You try explaining that to my Nan!

I'm going to have a larger board/table to put the raised table on - but I see your point.

Maybe rubber should be used to tip the leglets instead of felt?

[Argonor]

Another thought:

If you're always going to use the same board to place the raised board on (which I intend - I'll probably make the raised board about 2.5' sq. so as to allow both 2' sq. and 3' sq. gaming tables to be placed on top, and then use a 3' sq. board to place it on) - why not make 'pinning holes' in the supporting board and have those round wooden 'pins' (I do not know the English word) protruding from the legs? If you go to a convention or a friends home, it should not matter what size table is at hand, you'll always have a very sturdy and stable set-up for the game. Downside is, you have to bring at least 3 boards (including 1 gaming table) instead of just 2...

[twrchtrwyth]

Another thought:

If you're always going to use the same board to place the raised board on (which I intend - I'll probably make the raised board about 2.5' sq. so as to allow both 2' sq. and 3' sq. gaming tables to be placed on top, and then use a 3' sq. board to place it on) - why not make 'pinning holes' in the supporting board and have those round wooden 'pins' (I do not know the English word) protruding from the legs? If you go to a convention or a friends home, it should not matter what size table is at hand, you'll always have a very sturdy and stable set-up for the game. Downside is, you have to bring at least 3 boards (including 1 gaming table) instead of just 2...

Dowels.

[Argonor]

Another thought:

If you're always going to use the same board to place the raised board on (which I intend - I'll probably make the raised board about 2.5' sq. so as to allow both 2' sq. and 3' sq. gaming tables to be placed on top, and then use a 3' sq. board to place it on) - why not make 'pinning holes' in the supporting board and have those round wooden 'pins' (I do not know the English word) protruding from the legs? If you go to a convention or a friends home, it should not matter what size table is at hand, you'll always have a very sturdy and stable set-up for the game. Downside is, you have to bring at least 3 boards (including 1 gaming table) instead of just 2...

Dowels.

Makes sense - they're called 'dybler' in Danish.

I just thought that dowel meant a long, round, thin wooden rod....

[twrchtrwyth]

Another thought:

If you're always going to use the same board to place the raised board on (which I intend - I'll probably make the raised board about 2.5' sq. so as to allow both 2' sq. and 3' sq. gaming tables to be placed on top, and then use a 3' sq. board to place it on) - why not make 'pinning holes' in the supporting board and have those round wooden 'pins' (I do not know the English word) protruding from the legs? If you go to a convention or a friends home, it should not matter what size table is at hand, you'll always have a very sturdy and stable set-up for the game. Downside is, you have to bring at least 3 boards (including 1 gaming table) instead of just 2...

Dowels.

Makes sense - they're called 'dybler' in Danish.

I just thought that dowel meant a long, round, thin wooden rod....

It does, and short, thick ones to!

[pnweerar]

And the area below can always be used for the Land of the Magma People.

 

[Argonor]

I know - but I finally got around to affixing the 'bolts' to my elevated table - I'll post pics tomorrow.

It works! Added the stability I was after 

[Grimm]

Yes that is what I will do for the 45 Adventure tables on the Tactica ,must copy that 

[Argonor]

I'm just about to make some shots of my new desert table and the finished elevated table with draw-bolts to hold the legs. I hope to have pics up within the next couple of hours... 

[Argonor]

So, here the underside of the now finished table:



And some close-ups:





Here, the bolted leg:





The blocks for the draw-bolts were just glued on with white wood-glue at this point. I consider securing them with a screw or two from the top side of the table.

I'm also going to add some magnet-strips to hold the legs in folded position during transport.

If I had to start this project from scratch, I'd go buy some hinges specially made for folding legs, though. There's a link further up this thread, I think...

[Operator5]

The draw bolts are perfect. I really like the design of yours. If I build a Mark II version of mine, I'll be doing the hinges and draw bolts since attaching the legs before each game is a drag. 

[Argonor]

Well, through trial and error, man shall learn....

But as I wrote, there's some hinges available especially for folding legs, and I think they actually have a device to lock in plade when unfolded. Those would spare the happy constructor a lot of head-aches