To Westeros with Captain Blood! 14 October, another hill tribesman (p66)

[pocoloco]

Splendid Richard, Rob is a triumph 

What he wrote 

You should treat us and paint him asap, nevermind Xmas

[Constable Bertrand]

Very nice conversions there Richard thanks for sharing your skill and a little onsite into your planning.

Do you have any tips/pointers in posing/converting multipart plastic figures?

Cheers
Matt.

[tomrommel1]

very well done figures!

[janner]

More excellent kit bashes 

[HvM]

Those conversions are absolutely outstanding!
Looking forward to see them painted.

Ever thought about northern themed bases?

Cheers,
Daniel

[Captain Blood]

Snow you mean? Thought about it. Suppose I should really. Never done it though. How do you do yours?

[tomrommel1]

I use a mix of baking Soda and white wood glue when applied sprinkle some more baking soda on top
Have a look at my Starks I did them that way . Oh and I use that method for some years now without the soda reacting with the minis or the paint even after years!
hope that helps!

[Captain Blood]

Thanks Tom. I may well give it a try 

[EndTransmission]

Oh, not sure how this thread of joy was missed. Fantastic use of the Perry plastics (as usual!)

[Dalauppror]

Exellent builds ! 

[HvM]

Thanks Tom. I may well give it a try 

But don't forget to add some white paint in that mix for avoiding the yellowing of the baking soda.

[Captain Blood]

Thanks Daniel, I will remember that.

Do you have any tips/pointers in posing/converting multipart plastic figures?

Only what I've said in all my various articles in WS&S:

'With a sharp knife and a tube of liquid polystyrene cement, anything and everything is possible. You can slice and dice to your heart’s content, pairing any parts from any sets.  Here’s a quick recap on the vital rudiments of modelling plastic figures...
Liquid polystyrene cement is your best friend. It not only glues parts together, it dissolves and melds plastic, acts as a smoother, filler and concealer of joins,  sticks almost immediately, and sets hard within 30 minutes. In short, it’s miraculous.
Study every component to appreciate its potential. A hand holding a sword doesn’t necessarily have to live on the end of the arm it comes attached to. You can slice it off and glue it to any other arm for a different effect. Angle your cut slightly, and achieve an attitude which is different again.
Natural posture is everything. The trick is to arrive at combinations of bodies, arms and heads which have the ring of truth. The slight angling of an arm here, the tilt of a head there, makes a huge difference to whether your end product looks ‘real’ or clunky. So take your time and try things out before you glue.
Note - with the Perry WOTR figures, the head usually sits a little low on the shoulders, so I always put a dab of liquid poly cement in the neck socket, then drop a shaving or two of plastic into it. Leave to dissolve for a few seconds, then pop the head on. It just helps the head to sit up that little bit, and makes for a slightly better attitude.
Waste nothing! All those little bits you cut and scrape off - even crumbs and shavings - are potentially useful down the line. Pop ‘em all in a little box and save them. It’s all good stuff.
You have to break a few eggs to make an omelette. These figures are (relatively)  cheap. Once you start chopping them around, things will go wrong, and you may end up using a few more components than you meant to. It’s no big deal - buy another box. Most mishaps are recoverable anyway – thanks to the miraculous properties of liquid poly cement'.
 

[Constable Bertrand]

Thanks Richard for the excerpt. Very helpful.

So you use glue as a gap filler? What do you do if there is a gap between arm and shoulder? Fill with GS, or a blob of glue and some filings of sprue?

Cheers
Matt.

[katie]

I do snow using glass microspheres. Bought a tub for a few pounds from a chandlery (it's used to lighten resin filler).

Mix it up with white paint and PVA glue in various proportions and it makes everything from light fluffy new fallen snow to slush  and ice.

These are some figures for a Flintloque unit based up using it; http://www.fysh.org/~katie/wargames/pictures/flintloque/IMG_20140523_143735_small.jpg

[Malebolgia]

Snow you mean? Thought about it. Suppose I should really. Never done it though. How do you do yours?

I recommend not using baking soda. Did this in the past and the stuff yellowed after 5-6 years. Even with white paint added...
My advice: get this snow: http://www.sceneryworkshop.nl/scenery-workshop-crushed-glass-crystal-clear-powde.html

The photos on the page are by me by the way . I tested the stuff for Scenery Workshop and absolutely LOVE it. Yes, it is crushed glass so you have to be a bit careful (no sneezing!). But the final look is perfect, it stays white and combined with glue makes a rock hard snow. Here's a link to the (Dutch) tutorial I wrote for them:
http://blog.sceneryworkshop.nl/2013/02/crushed-glass-scenery-workshop-tutorial/

And some pictures of my stuff with snow:
http://paintoholic.nl/images/vlad2.jpg
http://paintoholic.nl/images/valachev2.jpg
http://paintoholic.nl/images/drago.jpg