A Tale from the Tin Shed,28mm Traction Engine & 8"Howitzer from Cereal Packet

[Constable Bertrand]

  well you are a clever sausage!

Cheers
Matt

[Constable Bertrand]

Finished my build.. its a bit off but I'm proud as punch.





Time for a slap of paint. Did you prime Mark?

Cheers
Matt

[The Dozing Dragon]

Great work! Very impressed. Might even give it a go myself at some point...................

[tin shed gamer]

Cracking job Sir,
As for under coating,a light coat wouldn't do any harm.What you'll find is a normal solid coat you'd apply to a metal or plastic figure.can lift the upper fibres and fur the surface in odd places,and unsealed edges.Its unpredictable its seems to be down to the age of the card,and how densely pressed the fibres.also how damp the card gets with spray paint.
An even coat requires several light coats, applied over a couple of days.Even then you'll find 9 out 10 will work,and then you'll come back to a fluffy model when it dries.
I normally paint straight onto the card and matt varnish if I'm out to make a model for someone else,If its for me I don't bother.
The only draw back with painting directly onto card is it takes longer to dry than you think,The surface will dry and the sub layer will be damp.You'll find over handling will cause little 'grey' mottled patches of ware,if you handle it to much before its totally dry.( Its only an issue if you rush your painting of base colours)These patches will take paint over them again without ware.A layer of varnish does pritty much what it does to a metal figure.
Its easy to keep on top of,By touching the 'dry' paint.If it feels slightly colder than the room temp but dry.Then it's not.Simple rule looks dry+feels cold=still wet.
It doesn't mean you have to take days to paint your model.Its simple wet paint wipes off .Its just sneaky paint when its applied to card .
I'll stop the frightening you off now and point out I painted and based mine in under two hour's.
On a lighter note now, you've made a traction engine.You'll look at those mdf dumpster's and barrier's and think I could have made them out of card

[Constable Bertrand]

Thanks Mark, that's ace help.

I glued that front wheel set way off centre unfortunately, it looked even from the angle I was trying to clamp it, but it sure wasn't. At an isometric view though it's fine

You'll look at those mdf dumpster's and barrier's and think I could have made them out of card

Haha, true that. but the mdf is sturdier for long lasting endurance.

Cheers
Matt.

[dampfpanzerwagon]

To CB,

Your Traction Engine looks great.

Tony

[jp1885]

Agreed - bravo sir!

[OSHIROmodels]

An absolutely splendid build and as its so comprehensive I'm going to move it to How To 

cheers

James

[tin shed gamer]

ah another nomadic tale.Its a good job my workshop's on wheels

[Constable Bertrand]

Thanks Tony and Jp. All credit to Mark though and his patience.

[OSHIROmodels]

ah another nomadic tale.Its a good job my workshop's on wheels

Stop making great step by step tutorials then 

No problem if you would like it moved back but I think it'll get more traffic here 

cheers

James

[carletto58]

great incredible job also because it is made only of paper you are master in what!
incredible painting really nice I will have to do it too! too good !!!

[tin shed gamer]

okay on with the wheels.

[tin shed gamer]

parts list.
a strip 10.6cm x 1cm
a strip 10.4cm x 3mm(double thickness)
a hub of rolled card 5mm tall.
two circles of card 3.4cm dia,inner circle 3cm dia(double thickness)
Two spoke 'spider's' 3.5cm dia(single thickness)

Glue the two spiders to the hub to form a 'daisy'.
Then place the daisy over the top of a circle(the spokes will guide centring)
glue the spokes of the top spider (only) down onto the circle.If you press the hub down as you do this it will help .
Then turn the whole thing upside down so the glued circle is at the top(unspoked side of the circle facing up),then centre over the remaining circle and bend down the remaining unglued spokes and attatch to the circle.You should end up with a bobbin/cotton reel efffect.
Centre the 3mm strip over the 1cm strip ensure it overlaps at one end and leaves a space on the 1cm strip at the other end.
Then precurve with the 3mm strip on the inside.
Now attatch to the 'bobbin' the 3mm strip runs between the circle.You must start with the overlap end first .When you curve around the bobbin.Or you'll have wasted all your work if you intend on using the evil stuff.
Thats the basic shape of the rear wheel and gun wheel done.
You can make a less fiddlesome wheel by increasing the 3mm strip to 5mm.Then curving the strips around just the circles.
Increase the hub to 6mm attatch it to one spider then glue the spokes of the spider to the outside of the wheel circle and do the same with the otherside.
This second method is used for front wheels as well.These smaller wheels require only one central circle though.
Tread can be achived two ways the qickest is to add a pair of double thickness 3mm wide stips around the edge.The second tread is to cut a strip 10.5cm x 1cm.The mark out 5mm points the full length.on the left side start the marking 2-3mm,lower than on the right. then join the respective dots on both side.(1to1,2to2,etc).
The start at the top of the wheel and attatch down both side a the same rate finishing underneath,That way if your spacing is a bit off it will be hidden by a base or the table top.

[tin shed gamer]

I'm going to skip a how to make a limber as its little more than a box on wheels with a triangle shape in front of a 'E'shaped (double thickness of card )frame.The photographs should help.