Big fan of your work!
Thank you Batu
Could you be so kind and explain your varnishing regiment to us. Please do go into detail. That subject is a constant hassle and I would love to get your perspective on it.
Certainly, no problem. This is basically an article on varnishing that is cut and pasted from my blog:
Varnishing Dark Age Period Miniatures- Gloss and Matt- My Way.
Although this has been titles "Varnishing Dark Age Period Miniatures" the same methods would be suitable for any period really. This is a simply a brief run through of how I
personally prefer to varnish my miniatures. I realise that everyone will rightly have their own way of doing things, not only that, different individuals will get different results from using the exactly the same processes!
This is simply the way in which I go about it and hopefully some of the information be useful for some of you? If not, then maybe of interest? I am a bit of a geek when it comes to painting; it is not unknown for me to have had conversations lasting several hours in person or even over the phone discussing painting! And yes, I do need to get out more, which unfortunately for me, is not really possible at the mo'.
Before I go any further, I really ought to add, before spraying any varnish (or undercoat) on any miniatures I find that heating up the tin by placing it on a thick towel on top of a radiator for 20 minutes is very helpful. I also shake for 5 minutes, which is well in excess the one or two minutes recommended by most manufacturers. The point is somewhat obvious, you want the spray to be as well mixed as is possible. If you live in a cold climate or have cold winters, try setting up a spray booth in your house, conservatory or garage. A decent cardboard box and a couple of light sources are all you need. Just make sure the ventilation is good and that any children are out of harms way. A good solid respirator is also very useful and will save your lungs from any damage. Make sure it has a good solid filtration system. Cheap is a bad idea.
Glossing: So, the first thing I do is to get a medium bristle synthetic brush and give the miniatures a good dusting off . A brush not so soft as to leave dust in the recesses of the miniature but not so hard that it will take any of your paintwork off (this is something I do prior each painting session too). It's amazing how much dust can gather, even overnight and this can ruin the varnishing process even before you begin.
I use one of two options for glossing. My number one choice is brush on Humbrol DIY Enamel Gloss varnish from a tin. This is super strong stuff when it has gone off. I bought several tins in bulk many years ago and still have a few left. Apply with an old synthetic brush and a small amount of thinners/white spirit making certain that you do not allow the varnish to pool or 'bubble'. Be sure to use an old reasonably stiff brush which can be cleaned with thinners/white spirit after the job is done. Oh, if you ever plan on using the brush again, clean it in white spirit after applying the varnish!
My second option for Gloss is to use Humbrol Enamel Gloss spray. This comes small in 150ml cans and it is just as more or less good as the brush on, certainly a lot more convenient but one has to be very careful not to let the varnish pool. If you do get any pooling I have found that a lint free cloth can be carefully used to 'pull' and excess away. I mush prefer the brush on Humbrol DIY Enamel Gloss varnish as it is much easier to control how much varnish is on the miniature/s and to avoid pooling.
Note: Humbrol have stopped producing their DIY Gloss Enamel. I have not tried their gloss from their usual range of enamel's but I expect it will be very similar(?). It's an open question; if anyone has any experience?
The Glossed Miniatures:
Then, wait about a week! Seriously! Let the gloss go fully off prior to applying the matt varnish. This is actually something I learned recently from the maestro painter Redzedz. A few moths ago, I started to notice some spotting/icing appearing on some models, made enquiries on the net and discovered that although the gloss may seem to be dry, it in fact had not in fact fully gone off. A period of about a week is best to play it safe.
Matting Down:For my matt layers I use Windsor and Newton Professional Matt Varnish. I used to use the old recipe of Testors Dullcote lacquer (in the black cans) but I have found that the newer version (in the white cans) nearly always leaves a satin sheen so stopped using it immediately and gave the cans away. There is nothing wrong with using Testors if that is the sort of finish you are looking for. It is just not for me. It is important to apply the Windsor and Newton Professional Matt Varnish in light layers with small bursts from the can so's to build up the matt gently.
As the matt varnish does not magically turn matt the moment it lands on the model I usually find that I have missed a spot or two on the models. If you look closely at some of the miniatures in the images below you will notice that there are spots on the miniatures where there is some gloss showing through. Though typically, on the miniatures I matted down for this little article there is not a lot! I usually find that I have missed more! I always add an extra layer of matt, so two sprays a day or two apart. I always give the matt about 24 hours between sprays to let it go off.
Matting Down:
So, just to recap. You are essentially going from the very shiny miniature on the right to the matted down version after just one spray of the Windsor and Newton Artists Professional Matt varnish.
Hope that helps?
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January 25, 2013, 10:55:40 PM