Koyote in Frostheim -SORRY- ALL PHOTOS PRIOR TO P.14 ARE INACCESSIBLE

[tyrionhalfman]

Nice additions. The windmill looks great, would never have thought to look at 3D puzzles as scenery. Thanks for sharing

[Koyote]

Summoner Apprentice and Familiar







The first photo looks a bit odd.  The model's left thigh looks huge. This occurred because I didn't lower the light enough to illuminate the rear portion of the model's jacket that, from the model's front, can be seen in between the model's legs. This problem is compounded by the fact that the  highlight's on the model's black trousers are too subtle and thus the outline of the model's thigh and groin wasn't picked up by my camera.

[Stéphane]

Outch ! What amazing miniature 
Where she come from ?

Furthermore, Tiny but Funny familar. 


Stéphane

[Koyote]

Outch ! What amazing miniature  
Where she come from ?

Furthermore, Tiny but Funny familar.  

Thanks, Stéphan. The model is a conversion, using mostly Warhammer bits.





The finished model's head differs because I wanted the model to have a more expressive face.

I added the toad familiar because the model that I'm using as my Summoner Wizard (the Mordheim Warlock) has a frog on its shoulder.  I carried this toad/frog theme into the creatures that my spell casters summon, giant demon toads.  

[tyrionhalfman]

He looks great, very characterful. Thanks for sharing

[Philhelm]

At first I thought that his familiar was the rat hanging from his belt, but at second glance I spotted the frog.   

[Koyote]

At first I thought that his familiar was the rat hanging from his belt, but at second glance I spotted the frog.  

You are correct. The rat isn't his familiar, it's his lunch.



I was going to name the Apprentice Roland,but now I'm leaning towards naming him him Thomas.

[Daniel36]

That is some fantastic conversion work. Well done. He looks great, and I love how deep your cokours are, especially your reds. Gorgeous!

[Stéphane]

Thanks, Stéphan. The model is a conversion, using mostly Warhammer bits.
...
The finished model's head differs because I wanted the model to have a more expressive face.

In fact, I love his headwear. Have you sculpted it or the "expressive" head has got it ?

Stéphane

[Koyote]

In fact, I love his headwear. Have you sculpted it or the "expressive" head has got it ?

The head, body and arms all come from GW's Archer/Huntsman kit.

[Philhelm]

I love how everything is so bright and clean.  If I could emulate any painting style, this would be it.  What's your general highlight/shading process as far as number of highlights, washes, etc?

[Koyote]

I love how everything is so bright and clean.  If I could emulate any painting style, this would be it.  What's your general highlight/shading process as far as number of highlights, washes, etc?

Thank you for your kind words.

The number of highlights and washes vary depending upon the color I am using, the properties of the paint that I am using, the results that I am trying to achieve and how bad I screw up my initial attempts to highlight.

Below are a few general tips.

For bright colors start with a white primer.

Never paint 'out of the pot.' Instead dab the paint on a pallete and thin it with a tiny amount of water.  This allows the color of the previous layer to show through the new layer, producing a more gradual highlight. Thinning also gives you better brush control and allows you to apply multiple (thin) layers without producing a lumpy effects. I make my palletes from the plastic portion of blister packs.  I cut the flat portions of the blister into rectangles and discard the rest of the plastic.

Use black/brown lining to define the borders between colors and objects.

Placing bright colors next to neutral colors (e.g. browns) can make the bright color appear more vibrant.

When thinning paint on your pallet you can mix in a small amount ink to a paint to deepen the paint's shade.

When mixing highlight colors use the correct combination of colors. For instance, don't mix red and white to make a red highlight. Red and white make pink. Instead, use red and little bit of yellow.

Companies, like GW, sell different shades of paint that are intended to be used together in order create highlights. Take advantage of this. For instance, to paint red I start with a base coat if Scab Red. Then I ink it with a brown ink (e.g. Agrax Earthshade or Army Painter Soft or Strong  Quickshade). Next I highlight with a mix of Scab Red and Khorne Red. Then I highlight with Khorne Red mixed with a small amount of red ink. Finally I highlight with Wazdakka Red. Simetimes I add a tiny amount of red ink to the Wazdakka.

[Philhelm]

Use black/brown lining to define the borders between colors and objects.

Thanks for the advice.  How do you go about black-lining?  Do you leave a black recess between borders, or do you paint it in?  What color brown do you use for brown-lining, and when would you do that instead of black-lining?

Regarding highlights, how many do you usually use for faces?  How many on clothing? (Average estimate, as you stated it varies)

[Golgotha]

Great minis really looking forward to seeing the completed windmill.

[Koyote]

I'm a bit disappointed in how this model turned out. I don't care for some of my color selections, particularly the color of the padded armor. After an hour or so in I almost dropped it into a jar of Simple Green, but I still have so many models to paint and so little time to do it, so I resisted the urge to start over and pushed on through.

Treasure Hunter









When I saw Dark Sword's Hans the Loner for the first time on CMON's webstore I knew that I had to have the model.  I have a weakness for models with quirky, cartoony faces and this fellow does indeed fit that description.  When the mini arrived I saw that it was quite a bit taller than even my GW minis, which are already on the large end of the 28mm scale.  After a bit of research I realized that it's not a 28mm model, but instead a 32mm model. Doh!

Before the model was ready for paint I had to do a bit of conversion work.  First, Hans is supposed to be tall and lanky, but I didn't want the model towering over the other models in my warband so I cut off the model's legs, removed a short section from the thigh and reattached the now shorter legs.  Hans is still taller than the other models in my warband, but no longer freakishly so.  I like how Hans' height and lanky build contrasts with my other Treasure Hunter's short and stout body type.

Treasure Hunters are armed with a hand weapon and dagger so I added long bladed dagger to the model.  I used GS to add a cap to the bottom of the scabbard and a strap connecting the weapon to the model's belt.  

The sword's scabbard is thinner than the sword blade so added greenstuff to the scabbard's back to increase it's thickness.