Converted Plastic mountain with tunnel.

[eilif]

This began as a plastic toy mountain that -no surprise to those familiar with my projects- I found at the resale shop.  The top of the mountain had a molded section of track to attach to Brio/Thomas style of  wooden track.  I covered this in concrete mix.  A black spray prime was followed by dark grey texture paint,  sprinkling on more concrete mix (a mix from the hardware store with concrete sand and gravel), a wetbrush of brown, a drybrush of tan, and some matte varnish.

Unlike many similar toys this one has some great flat areas for putting figures on.  Perfect for Wargaming!


The inside was completely hollow so I just glued in a piece of cardboard and texture painted it to create the tunnel walls.

I really like plastic toys for this kind of thing as there's no risk of the breakage and chipping that you get with foam. I think this will fit in well with the rest of my rocky desert terrain set which includes big foam hills/cliffs, smaller Playmobile rocks and the bunker made from Thomas and Friends dock.  All of which have received similar treatment as seen here.

[Mason]

I really like the colouring that you have got on it.
It should fit in perfectly in that set-up.
 

[Major_Gilbear]

I really like the colouring that you have got on it.

Yep - was going to compliment the colour too!

[eilif]

Thanks folks,
     I think the color effect is just a matter of letting the under colors (especially the black) show through in places.  Plus of course heavy texture makes drybrushing just pop.

I can't recommend the "Concrete topper" mix highly enough.  The concrete base is too fine to pick up much drybrushing, but it really looks like soil when painted and there's enough medium and fine gravel in there to provide plenty of drybrushable texure.  A 40 pound bag is only $7 at the hardware store so I have more than enough to last me for many years.

I also sifted it out with a couple of strainers so I have a stock of medium Gravel, fine gravel and fine concrete. The fine concrete is interesting in that makes a great base filler.  You can put it on the base and then drop some water on it and it will harden in place.  Sometimes it contracts but you just put a bit more on with some water. It takes paint and washes really well. 

Maybe I should do a tutorial just about the uses for "Concrete topper" mix.

[Marine0846]

Very cool.
Love the terrain.
Please do a tutorial.
Is there a brand name for "concrete topper?"

[tyrionhalfman]

Very nicely executed. Thanks for sharing

[eilif]

Very cool.
Love the terrain.
Please do a tutorial.
Is there a brand name for "concrete topper?"

I'm pretty sure this is the mix that I bought, but I threw out the bag and don't remember exactly.
https://www.menards.com/main/concrete-sand-gravel-mix/sand-mix/p-1444445322125-c-5648.htm?tid=6674765326948910857

It's a mix of concrete, sand and fine gravel.

The "Tutorial" for texturizing plastic toyrocis goes some thing like this.  Someday I might write more about it's many uses, but it won't be for a while.

In the meantime The Tutorial for texturizing plastic toy rocks goes some thing like this.

1-To provide a good bonding surface for the later paint, spray the plastic model with cheap flat black spray paint, being careful to completely get in every nook and cranny.
2-Apply a thick layer of latex acrylic paint, either black, dark grey or VERY dark brown I use housepaint because it's cheap and the store will mix whatever color you want.  No reason to waste good model paint on terrain.   Craft paint will work too, though housepaint is cheaper, thicker and more durable than craft or model paint.
3-Sprinkle the concrete topper over the wet paint. Heavier on the flat tops and toss it lightly at the sides. 
-The water in the latex paint will bond and cure the topper and it will basically become part of the paint. 
4-Apply another layer of the latex.
4a-If the surface doesn't look rough enough apply some more concrete topper to the wet paint and another layer of the housepaint on top of that.
5-Wet drybrush on the base color.  (the model above used a medium brown) Don't apply to heavily, especially in the nooks and crevases.
6-Apply a drybrush of your highlight color (The model above used a medium tan).
7- Seal with either a spray matte finish or a brush-on varnish.  Be careful if you use a brush on.  It's easy and quick but the rough surface will make it easy for bubbles and pools to form.  Dab up any excess with another brush. When it dries it should be fine, but if you leave too much on you'll get hazy sections.
8-Done.

This method makes for nice rough cliffs with lots of drybrushable texture.   

My previous favorite methods were

-Premixed concrete patch/cement
Seen on the playmobile rocks above.  I would just smear it on the bare plastic and paint over it. This product comes premixed  makes a great surface and sticks to most anything.  It is sometimes hard to find though. Also it doesn't have the gravel so if you want some gravel you have to glue some down anyway.  smear premixed concrete patch/ directly on the plastic cliffs and then paint.  I still use it to give a great concrete texture to smooth plastic, but not so much for natural rock surfaces any more.

-A bit of gravel and sand glued over spackling plaster
Seen on the big cliffs/hills and the bunker above.  Works fine but as seen in the streaky drybrush texture it doesn't give as good a texture for drybrushing.  It's a fair texture, cheap and available at any hardware store, but if you want nice rough surface you still have to add a step gluing down gravel and/or sand.  Also, plaster doesn't always bond well to some plastics.

[Golgotha]

That is a really nice looking piece just goes to show what a bit of TLC can do with what would otherwise be a child's play thing.