Author Topic: Rivits....how?? (Read 2252 times)

Mr.Marx · « **on:** November 22, 2008, 07:59:48 PM »

Goodevening Everyone,

Im a enthusiastic scratchbuilder and I have spent the afternoon of today trying to cobble something together out of the stuff out off my desk. you can see it on the outher post i have put up today. http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=8437.0

my problem is, i want to add rivits, but i dont know how. I know there is some way to do it with PVA glue, but im not entirely sure how.can anyone give me some advise? a 'how-to' perhaps?

Thank you

Mr.Marx

gamer Mac · « **Reply #1 on:** November 22, 2008, 08:24:01 PM »

There are three ways of doing rivets that I know.
1.   PVA glue and a tooth pick to spot the glue. Leave a small blob. When it is dry it looks like a rivet. Only works well on very small rivets and it can turn out a bit messy and the rivets look uneven.
2.   On plastic card use a sharp point to push into the back of the piece you want rivets on. If you do this on a soft surface such as cork or a soft cutting mat and don’t push right through the card you can easily made small rivets that that can be very neat. This only works if you are making something out of plastic card.
3.   The third method is to use plastic rod of the diameter you want for the rivets. Slice the rod up into small pieces. Use glue to fix in place. This good because you can fix it on to any surface using different glues as required. But it does take a long time. Good for make large rivets.

I have tried all three and it just take a bit of trial and error to get good results.
Good luck.

Mr.Marx · « **Reply #2 on:** November 22, 2008, 08:31:21 PM »

Ah!

Top man Mr.Mac! Top man!

I will have a go tonight I think.

Thanks alot

Mr.Marx

Svennn · « **Reply #3 on:** November 22, 2008, 08:37:32 PM »

I agree totally with all Mac says - a very good and full answer. All I would add is you can get punch and die sets which actually make individual rivets to glue on but they are not cheap.

http://www.historexagents.com/shop/tips_punch.php

archangel1 · « **Reply #4 on:** November 22, 2008, 09:25:14 PM »

How about decals? Archer Fine Transfers does a large selection of surface details including rivets, weld beads, woodgrain, treadplate, piano hinges, etc. They even have one for replacing those raised panel lines you can't avoid sanding off when building models! They are 3D, not flat, and are applied before painting. I've not seen them myself but they've been getting good reviews. Can't beat their postage rates, either. $2US worldwide under $50 and free over. The detail sheets aren't cheap but, again, buy 5, get one free, buy 10, get 2 free. Free catalogue downloads, too. Quality site and a huge range!

http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html

Mr.Marx · « **Reply #5 on:** November 22, 2008, 09:45:48 PM »

Thanks everyone, but I think im going to go with the PVA and the toothpick.

This is mostly because I ran out of money a fair while ago, but also because I think I will have a bash at it tonight. Thanks for the ideas for the outher ways, and I must say, those 3D decals are something abit clever. I may end up with some of them before too long.
Wonderfull stuff

Thank you

Mr.Marx

Captain Blood · « **Reply #6 on:** November 22, 2008, 11:01:27 PM »

PVA and a 000 fine paintbrush if you want to be more precise. Provided you wash the brush out every now and then during the process, the PVA won't dry on the brush tip. But I guess a toothpick would do

You need to apply a 'fuller' spot of PVA than you might think, because even what looks like a good sized blob shrinks to little more than a skin as it dries out.
So the secret is to gradually build up a decent sized rivet. You will need to add two, three or even four or five successive droplets of PVA onto the same spot. Wait for each layer to dry (takes an hour or so) before adding the next layer.

The rivets on the door of the armoured car below were added this way, and the row of rivets to the left of the door...
So were the rivets on the iron-bound door of the redoubt.

Chairface · « **Reply #7 on:** November 23, 2008, 04:59:40 AM »

A hand drill and pins! Lots of em!

http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=7253.0

Geudens · « **Reply #8 on:** November 23, 2008, 09:27:35 AM »

This is were I got mine:

http://www.tichytraingroup.com/index.php?page=view_category.php&category=NBW+%26+Rivets&offset=0

You really can't bother for what these people are charging. Since I'm in Belgium: customs are no problem: even a decent order is just a small envelope...

Rudi

dampfpanzerwagon · « **Reply #9 on:** November 23, 2008, 09:52:18 AM »

The bulk of my rivets are sliced plastic rod (or stretched sprue - which is free), see the link below to my Blog.

I also have the Historex punch and die and find that sliced rod is so much easier.

There is one other technique which I have used; Take a piece of aluminium and drill lots of suitably sized holes in to it. Then heat up a piece of thick sprue in a candle (not in the flame - as you just want to soften it not burn or melt it), then press the sprue into the aluminium, the holes will produce small round and domed headed rivets, you then cut each one off with a new scalpel blade and glue to the model.

Tony
http://dampfpanzerwagon.blogspot.com/

Sterling Moose · « **Reply #10 on:** November 23, 2008, 03:04:57 PM »

I have heard that those 'wobbly eyes' from craft stores can be quite effective.

captain midnight · « **Reply #11 on:** November 29, 2008, 08:11:30 AM »

I have successfully used dots of white glue on smaller vehicles. On larger vehicles I have been thinking about using 2mm beads from the craft store. If it works I'll post photos.

Mr.Marx · « **Reply #12 on:** November 29, 2008, 03:17:20 PM »

Thanks everyone

Ive had a go and ended up with this;

Its not so bad for a first go.

Im sure it would be easyer if I had anouther go, and used a toothpick rather than a sharpened end of a broken paintbrush.

Thanks again everyone

Mr.Marx

Dr DeAth · « **Reply #13 on:** November 29, 2008, 10:46:17 PM »

I've purchased a Draper Revolving Punch which is designed to make holes (2-4.5mm) in leather and sheet materials. The 'waste' material gets collected in the tool and makes perfect rivet heads - imaging keeping the 'holes' from a polo mint and you get the idea.

By punching holes in various thicknesses of pasticard a large variety in sizes of 2 - 4.5mm diameter rivet heads can be made very easily.

Relatively cheap and very robust tool

http://www.tool-catalogue.co.uk/tools.php/cPath/31044_31053_31061/products_id/11187

Another alternative for those advocates of the PVA method is to use a modellers syringe to apply precise 'blobs' of pva where needed.

http://www.barrule.com/Workshop/scratch%20builders%20paradise/tools%20outils%20werkzeuge.html

or

http://www.alwayshobbies.com/Store/Craft-kits-and-Books/Adhesives/Pin-Point-Glue-Syringe-Kit

Hope that helps.

De'Ath

Mancha · « **Reply #14 on:** November 30, 2008, 01:01:33 AM »

Once you use rivet or bolt sprues from model train suppliers, you'll wonder why you ever messed with glue and a toothpick.

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Author Topic: Rivits....how?? (Read 2252 times)