Glueing blue foam

[Mister Rab]

I had a quick search, but couldn't find the answer (perhaps my search skills are weakening...).

What glue do you recommend for glueing blue foam to other bits of blue foam, or attaching cork bark etc.? I'm finally going to attempt my first terrain boards but don't want them to either melt, or fall apart, from using the wrong adhesive! I'm aware that UHU POR is suitable, but would any solvent-free glue work?

I cast myself upon your greater experience!

[Westfalia Chris]

I've had good results with run-of-the-mill PVA. If there's sufficient material thickness, I prefer to use needles or toothpick lengths to give the joint some internal stability.

Note though that when using PVA, you should be careful regarding slippage. If the glue layer is too thick, pieces tend to slide a bit. If possible, in that case, I weigh down the whole thing with some books (e.g. layered hills with flat tops).

[DELTADOG]

Rapid curing PVA Glue! I´ve not found better stuff for that pricing. There is a special Insulation Foam Glue out there you can apply with a spatula, but its expensive and the remaining glue not well storeable once opened.

[Old-N-Busted]

I find that B&Q interior grab adhesive ( the gray/blue tube solvent free) works very well
and they are only a couple of quid each. BUSTED.

[OSHIROmodels]

Wood glue and a hot glue gun for me.

The hot glue gun for the large internal areas where the wood glue might not dry for a long time

cheers

James

[YPU]

The hot glue gun for the large internal areas where the wood glue might not dry for a long time

He's not kidding with that, had something dry at the edges and stay wet at the core for almost a week.

[Mister Rab]

I knew I could rely on you all!

Thank you, and I'll make sure I share my progress, even if it is merely a warning to others of how not to go about building terrain 

[Braz]

Aleene's Tacky Glue applied as dots instead of smeared on as a layer has worked really well so far.

[jthomlin]

The Hot Wire Foam Company makes a specialist foam glue:

http://www.ema-models.co.uk/index.php/power-tools/hot-wire-cutters/hot-wire-foam-factory/styrogoo-17oz.html

They also made a PVA style glue which was stronger and faster drying than PVA, but it isn't on their site any more. There seems to be old stock still available here in OZ ...

http://www.barnes.com.au/build-it/hwff-brush-on-foam-fusion-glue-1970

... so it may be available elsewhere. Then again it may have been withdrawn because it causes cancer or the like*, which would be just my luck as it's the one I have used most! 

Cheers!
Joe Thomlinson

[Hammers]

Wood glue and a hot glue gun for me.

The hot glue gun for the large internal areas where the wood glue might not dry for a long time

cheers

James

Yes. XPS doesn't breath very well so white glue indeed takes a long time to set. If I am pressed for time I use Liquid Nails and similar. Alos, when I use white glue I favor the sticky type as the XPS has a tendency to slide. Bamboo skewers are good for fixating the pieces to.

[Mister Rab]

Marvellous - I already have a glue gun, PVA, and the dog-end of a tube of liquid nails so I can spend m glue money on flock

Thanks for your time, gents.

[Braz]

Haven't heard this mentioned yet on the LAF but some household wall primers work great for gluing large flat styrofoam pieces together like I will for my cliffs and hills.

Glidden Gripper Primer (USA formulation only, the formula was changed in Canada so doesn't work well, ....not sure about elsewhere)
Zinsser Bullseye 123 primer for those in Canada supposedly just as good.

[Hu Rhu]

Gorilla Wood Glue.

[Col. Aubrey Bagshot]

The proper Gorilla glue is probably THE best bond.
But it expands as it cures, so clamping is needed.

When glued, it will never come apart!

[YPU]

I have found that with PVA the glue is harder then the foam. So when carving say a cliff face you need to take extra care to hide the seam line as it does show it. I wonder if anybody has found a glue that doesn't do this?