Painting advice please -- and gluing

[Lamilvelo]

One of my favorite aspects of the hobby is watching my painting improving over time.  Keeping your first mini's you paint is a great way to see that.  Also it's pretty amusing to pull the original ones out from time to time to use.

[Billchuck]

Tenax 7R and Ambroid Pro-Weld are other liquid cement brands. They act pretty much the same. No idea how they compare to the Tamaya stuff, never used that.

For brushes, check out Rosemary & Co.  They are excellent brushes that are inexpensive. Many people here swear by them.

[Azzabat]

Thanks for the replies.  Good to know about the simple green.

Besides, Tamiya brand plastic glue, what glue do you guys use for your plastic miniatures?  And why do you like it over other brands?

I need to buy some plastic glue   I have e6000 at home, but never used it yet -- don't know if this counts or is as good as other brands.

I have no problem paying the money for something that excels.  e.g. I got these kolinsky 0 and 000 brushes , sable hair, made in ENgland.. like $15 a brush.. TOTALLY worth it.. I love em  Never had such control painting a mini before (although I haven't painted many yet).

Liquid poly cement varies between manufactures. I've tried many different ones and would recommend only 2.

Plastruct Plastic weld

(http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/1213_1_15391.html)

This is very good. The only draw back is it comes in a tall, narrow bottle that can be easily knocked over, and the brush never reaches to the bottom of the bottle.

Tamiya

(http://elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/paints-hobby-and-scenery-by-manufacturer/tamiya/tamiya-modelling-glue/tamiya-extra-thin-cement-40ml-order-in-12s?d=22&gclid=Cj0KEQiAr8W2BRD2qbCOv8_H7qEBEiQA1ErTBqFvJzihRFQa0Z-C-9ivIu9mdNb1oPePPE1FuY28XrkaAg3P8P8HAQ)

I always use Tamiya (extra thin) these days as in my opinion it's the best. It also comes in a squat, square bottle which is nye on impossible to knock over.

There's a good 'glue guide' here:     http://www.scalemodelguide.com/construction/materials/learn-glue/

Good call on the brushes by the way. I always buy Kolonsky sable as they are without a doubt the best brushes and, as you've found, make such a difference. Not cheap though.

[TheMageKing]

Honestly?

I completely advise against using plastic cement. Use superglue, since, if you wind up not liking the pose, you can just dunk the sucker in really hot water for a bit and the superglue will pop right off, since it'll expand and go brittle from that. 

So much less trouble, starting off.

AND you don't need two or three kinds of glue, just the one.

[Azzabat]

  It's an individual choice really. I have a lot of different hobbies so I've always got 5 or 6 different glues around depending on the material I'm working with. (Liquid Poly, Superglue, PVA, Contact Cement, 2-Part Epoxy etc.)

Personally I hate using Superglue. I find it too difficult to control (I hate when you push two parts together and the Superglue squirts out and sticks to your finger, or leaves a seam), the nozzle/caps clog up, and it has a short shelf life. Don't get me wrong, I use it, and it's brilliant on the right material, I just don't personally like it.
I don't like using Contact Cement either but there you go.    

[Koyote]

I use superglue for the very same reason.  When I glue two pieces together, I want the option to change my mind.

You can often forgoe the soaking and just pull the parts apart. If the parts don't come apart or the parts are fragile and you fear breaking them, you can wedge the blade of a hobby knife inbetween the two parts and cut or pry them apart.

Superglue also has the advantage of being less expensive and widely available, so no special trips to a hobby shop required.

[Ravendas]

I use superglue for the very same reason.  When I glue two pieces together, I want the option to change my mind.

You can often forgoe the soaking and just pull the parts apart. If the parts don't come apart or the parts are fragile and you fear breaking them, you can wedge the blade of a hobby knife inbetween the two parts and cut or pry them apart.

Superglue also has the advantage of being less expensive and widely available, so no special trips to a hobby shop required.

I've heard of people throwing minis in the freezer for an hour or so. Superglue gets very brittle when it's ice cold, so you can pop it apart even easier.

[Jennifer]

/materials/learn-glue/

Good call on the brushes by the way. I always buy Kolonsky sable as they are without a doubt the best brushes and, as you've found, make such a difference. Not cheap though.

Yeah I am super careful with them.  I never mash them down, rinse every 30 seconds to 1 minute in jar of water, never dip too deeply into the paint and I use brush soap on them after every session.  I haven't had them long but used them say a dozen times and they are as good as new so far.  Such precision control -- the Brits really know how to make a brush!

[Jennifer]

What do you guys think about using e6000 to glue minis together?  Is there another name for this product in europe?

[Azzabat]

It's called e6000 in the Uk as well. Mainly used by jewellery makers. I know friends in the craft sector that use it and they say it's the strongest adhesive they've ever used, but it smells apparently.

I've never seen it on sale anywhere so I've never tried it myself.

[Ravendas]

What do you guys think about using e6000 to glue minis together?  Is there another name for this product in europe?

I wouldn't use it for minis. Too goopy and stringy. I've used it to glue some odd things like tiles together.

[Jennifer]

Tamiya

(http://elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/paints-hobby-and-scenery-by-manufacturer/tamiya/tamiya-modelling-glue/tamiya-extra-thin-cement-40ml-order-in-12s?d=22&gclid=Cj0KEQiAr8W2BRD2qbCOv8_H7qEBEiQA1ErTBqFvJzihRFQa0Z-C-9ivIu9mdNb1oPePPE1FuY28XrkaAg3P8P8HAQ)

I always use Tamiya (extra thin) these days as in my opinion it's the best. It also comes in a squat, square bottle which is nye on impossible to knock over.

There's a good 'glue guide' here:     http://www.scalemodelguide.com/construction/materials/learn-glue/

Good call on the brushes by the way. I always buy Kolonsky sable as they are without a doubt the best brushes and, as you've found, make such a difference. Not cheap though.

I ordered this Tamiya just now thank you.  It didn't cost too much shipped to the USA.  Only like 6  quid shipped.

[Jennifer]

Okay so I am getting a box kit of Frostgrave Soldiers and a 50/50 mix box kit of Viking Hirdmen and Dark Age Warriors.   That's around 60 soldiers or so -- more than enough for my nephew and myself to each form a warband or two.

I was just wondering since they are similar sculpts and we'll be sharing them.. what's the best way to make them stand out from each other, as a team?

I guess I need a paint scheme for each?

Could someone pretty please, give me a good paint scheme for each warband?  I am new to painting and not experienced enough yet to come up with something that's good.

OR maybe their weapons, clothing and shields shouldn't match?  That way it looks more disorganized and like they are hirelings.  Perhaps there is another way to distinguish easily between the two armies?  Like one team using a circular base and the other a hexagonal base?

Or maybe it's not that hard to know who has what model since each person knows which they painted it -- and I don't need to worry at all about them matching or using different bases?

[King Arthur]

Okay so I am getting a box kit of Frostgrave Soldiers and a 50/50 mix box kit of Viking Hirdmen and Dark Age Warriors.   That's around 60 soldiers or so -- more than enough for my nephew and myself to each form a warband or two.

I was just wondering since they are similar sculpts and we'll be sharing them.. what's the best way to make them stand out from each other, as a team?

I guess I need a paint scheme for each?

Could someone pretty please, give me a good paint scheme for each warband?  I am new to painting and not experienced enough yet to come up with something that's good.

OR maybe their weapons, clothing and shields shouldn't match?  That way it looks more disorganized and like they are hirelings.  Perhaps there is another way to distinguish easily between the two armies?  Like one team using a circular base and the other a hexagonal base?

Or maybe it's not that hard to know who has what model since each person knows which they painted it -- and I don't need to worry at all about them matching or using different bases?

My advice, based upon personal preference would be to use natural, muted tones, Vallejo Game Colour is great for this, since they have a wide range of colours for WWII scenarios, so you can pick up some wonderful Olives, Browns and Greys in numerous shades! Also get yourself a Steel model air colour, its very fluid and great for metal parts, dull it afterwards with a black wash. If you want them to look like a group of Mercenaries, then non uniformed is best for these types of scenarios unless you role play and base their background upon a famous Mercenary band etc the only limitation is your imagination 

If you choose the non uniformed look then no colour scheme is required, just identify the colour palette you like best and go ahead! If you want a hint of 'realism' then colours such as Red, Blues, Purples were very expensive dye stuffs, so should be limited to special characters/champions etc, most ordinary troops would be in undyed cottons, browns, greens or grey.

Good luck and most importantly have fun!

Cheers

Gary

[jp1885]

I concur - go for muted colours: browns, greys, greens etc. To add a 'uniform' to distinguish both sides, paint a small part of thier clothing (a scarf, a rag, a hood, a hat or whatever) with a bright colour - say red for one sid, blue for the other.