Modelling w/ plasticard. Questions.

[Panzerknacker]

Hey all,

Super inspired by all of the scratch building going on around here. Amazing to see things get built to scale out of just  plasticard and other bits.

A few questions for those more experienced:

1. Quick set seems like it's probably necessary?
2. I see folks using all kinds of other bits - flash suppressors on tank barrels, little brass bits, etc. Where does one buy such bits?
3. Besides a good hobby knife, a metal ruler, and a cutting board, what tools make this easier?
4. Any other words of wisdom for a noob?

I'm looking to build a British automated carrier and a fancy Japanese tank hunter for Konflict 47!

[shandy]

Hi,

I make most of my buildings out of Plasticard, as they are 15mm in scale and blue foam is too thick for my taste. I'm not a very diligent modeler and don't do really fiddly and complicated stuff (I wouldn't dare to try vehicles!), but this is what I do:

1. I mostly use superglue.
2. I buy my bits at a local architectural modeling supply store - it's not cheap, but for 15mm, I only need few parts. Otherwise, good general art & craft stores as well as model railway stores can be good sources. Also, ebay.
3. I find a small carpenter square very useful.
4. Make a plan or at least a sketch beforehand. And have fun! Scratch building can be very rewarding and satisfiying. Also, try to work away from children as superglue can make you curse like a sailor :-)

[Vermis]

I can't say I've mucked around too much with plasticard either, but...

1. Superglue accelerator? Call it inertia or whatever, but I still prefer poly cement for polystyrene. I mostly use the liquid stuff now (Humbrol's in particular) with a small paintbrush - wicks into joins and corners, works reasonably quickly, and any excess evaporates away instead of sitting in a hard, unshiftable blob.

3. It's not necessary, but since you asked what makes things easier - a Tamiya plastic scriber. It digs out a little v-shaped groove rather than slicing through the plastic, but it's a lot smoother and quicker than that sounds, and - I find - more accurate and less prone to slipping than a knife. You cut sheets by digging successive grooves, so for thicker pieces (as the Tamiya site says) it can take a little while. I'd also suggest that, for the sake of your cutting board, do the final cut or two with a knife.

[zemjw]

It's expensive (cheaper ones are probably about), but something like the NWSL Chopper is great for creating a number of pieces the same length.

Legos are really good for creating forms, especially right angled ones.

+1 for liquid poly cement and Tamiya cutter thing.

Toothpicks for spreading out the cement, when even the brush is too clumsy. If there are large flat surfaces a light sanding will give a better result (talking 600+ grit here, you're just looking to scratch it to give the glue a route in).

Quite often all you need is one or two shallow scribes on the card before you snap it. A lot of it will depend on the thickness of the plasticard, but it's very happy to break, it just needs some guidance.

For greeblie bits, Squires is a good choice in the UK (they also have a huge range of things you never knew you needed until you saw them). Railway shops and a half decent model shop should have bits to buy.

Files and a small sanding block for clearing up any rough edges.

A pin vise for drilling holes.

If you're going for circles you may want to get a compass cutter. They can be a pain (literally) on thicker card, but are fine on thinner stuff. These days there are a number of palm punches available for crafters that are suitable. There isn't a huge choice available, but if you find one it's really handy.

[dbsubashi]

A razor saw and a miter box for cutting any strip/stock too thick for the Chopper.

I prefer Testor Model Master liquid cement (I believe Revell makes a similar product across the pond) for all my plastics. It is thicker than the "sloshy" liquid glue, but thinner than tube glue. It has a metal precision nozzle for laying the glue where you want it. And it is perfect things like 2-part gun barrels or the crenelations on the new Renedra tower or anywhere the may be a slight gap. Just lay a bead of glue on both sides/parts, wait a minute for the glue to soften both sides, and the press together. You should get a slight bead of softened plastic sticking out. Wait 24 hours and the just trim away the bead with a knife, no filling and filing needed.

This glue is also great for strip stock. You can lay down a thin bead of glue on the strip, and have time to position on your sheet stock, as it does not really evaporate. It will dry, but doesn't just evaporate away.

[Rich H]

+1 for poly cement.  I've got Tamiya extra thin and it works well but it's hard to control.  Main thing is you get time to adjust or even change your mind...!  Superglue for any mixed materials.

also as above score and snap.  Inside curves are hardest.  I use a Stanley knife (Box cutter) and loads of blades and a steel ruler.  I also have some large flat files for squaring things off.  

If I need a piece 12mm across I'll cut a strip 12mm and cut off what I need.  That leaves you a useful strip for later.

Bits - I have a huge box of bits left over from other things! plastic/metal rod tube all sorts of model bits.  Even the tiny bits can be useful.

Start with conversions and work from there.  Wheels, tracks and curves are the hardest parts.  

I use 1mm for structural elements and 0.5mm for curves and plating.  Make  a nice solid sub-structure of bulkheads and then plate the outside.  Don't be scared of filler!

You cna see the sub structure here:


Which is then covered in filler


Eventually ending up here:


You can see the mix of materials: Plasticard, MDF (laser cut), aluminium tube and wire, brass tube, miliput, plastic tube.

[Michi]

+1 for poly cement.  

I use a Stanley knife (Box cutter) and a steel ruler.

Bits - I have a huge box of bits left over from other things! plastic/metal rod tube all sorts of model bits.  Even the tiny bits can be useful.

I second all of the above, although I rather use the X-Acto knife instead. never bin anything that could be useful in the future: A well stuffed bits box is a treasure!

[Rich H]

Lovely stuff!

Don't be overly critical of your own stuff but equally plasticard is cheap so if its not right scrap it!  Also if you need a straight line then use a ruler.  Wonkey lines can spoil things like rivets out of line or wavy edges!

First Tortoise hull wasn't right so I started again

[Panzerknacker]

+1 for poly cement.  I've got Tamiya extra thin and it works well but it's hard to control.  Main thing is you get time to adjust or even change your mind...!  Superglue for any mixed materials.

also as above score and snap.  Inside curves are hardest.  I use a Stanley knife (Box cutter) and loads of blades and a steel ruler.  I also have some large flat files for squaring things off.  

If I need a piece 12mm across I'll cut a strip 12mm and cut off what I need.  That leaves you a useful strip for later.

Bits - I have a huge box of bits left over from other things! plastic/metal rod tube all sorts of model bits.  Even the tiny bits can be useful.

Start with conversions and work from there.  Wheels, tracks and curves are the hardest parts.  

I use 1mm for structural elements and 0.5mm for curves and plating.  Make  a nice solid sub-structure of bulkheads and then plate the outside.  Don't be scared of filler!

You cna see the sub structure here:


Which is then covered in filler


Eventually ending up here:


You can see the mix of materials: Plasticard, MDF (laser cut), aluminium tube and wire, brass tube, miliput, plastic tube.

Thanks all! super inspirational stuff going on here! Seems like I am ready to get started!

[vodkafan]

Lots of good things already said. I am no type of expert but the most indispensable things I have found is a metal set square and a good metal ruler to cut things straight and square. I have a lot of trouble cutting things square but it has got better with practice. I would also say keep away from really thick plasticard. It's just too hard to cut accurately. The thickest I use now is 30thou. If I need to go thicker than that I layer it (for instance 60thou I use two layers of 30thou)

[dampfpanzerwagon]

+1 for poly cement.  I've got Tamiya extra thin and it works well but it's hard to control.  Main thing is you get time to adjust or even change your mind...!  Superglue for any mixed materials.

also as above score and snap.  Inside curves are hardest.  I use a Stanley knife (Box cutter) and loads of blades and a steel ruler.  I also have some large flat files for squaring things off.  

If I need a piece 12mm across I'll cut a strip 12mm and cut off what I need.  That leaves you a useful strip for later.

Bits - I have a huge box of bits left over from other things! plastic/metal rod tube all sorts of model bits.  Even the tiny bits can be useful.

Start with conversions and work from there.  Wheels, tracks and curves are the hardest parts.  

I use 1mm for structural elements and 0.5mm for curves and plating.  Make  a nice solid sub-structure of bulkheads and then plate the outside.  Don't be scared of filler!

You cna see the sub structure here:


Which is then covered in filler


Eventually ending up here:


You can see the mix of materials: Plasticard, MDF (laser cut), aluminium tube and wire, brass tube, miliput, plastic tube.

WOW!!!!!

That is a great scratch Build.

Thanks for posting the images.

The tortoise If I'm correct.....

Tony

[Rich H]

You are correct
Sent to JTFM for casting.

[dampfpanzerwagon]

You are correct
Sent to JTFM for casting.

When you produce masters for casting - do you build to 1/56th (28mm) or slightly larger to account for shrinkage?

I tend to stick to 1/56th, but I have read that others produce their masters slightly larger to account for shrinkage.

Tony

[Rich H]

As close to 56 as i can.  I've not had any significant shrinkage on my moulds

[Arunman]

How do you bend the plasticard? I see Rich H's tank has bent armoured plates at the front and Michi's car and ship have bent forms as well. I have tried to make a plasticard banners out both of modeller's plasticard and the kind of thin clear plastic from blister packs, but these have been the results so far:

• hot water hardly melts anything, even with thin <1 mm plasticard and literally boiling water
• candle flame is like a superhot 1mm diameter hot spot, with hardly any more area covered unless one burns the whole thing
• heating with a hair dryer takes a lot of time, with plasticard eventually acting rather uncontrollably
• heated plasticard piece often is not just merely bendable for like one second, but shrinks as well, which is a problem.

My largest concern so far has been that when I heat the plasticard piece, it takes time. A lot. And then more. It's still rigid. Then - suddenly - it melts down or even starts to burn. Ohmygod - now I take the piece away from the heat source, move the piece quickly (1 second) aside to be able to bend it and what I find is that melted or blackened piece is already too cold for bending. Or if I bend it then after like 2 seconds, cracks will appear in the plasticard and bent forms will bounce back to their original forms. How does one avoid the sudden melting and just equally suddenly reappearing rigidity?