Modelling w/ plasticard. Questions.

[dampfpanzerwagon]

As close to 56 as i can.  I've not had any significant shrinkage on my moulds

Thanks.

Tony

[Rich H]

For a simple cylinder i make a structure with the top and bottom with internal bulkheads to set the height.  Then cut cut a strup to cover the sides i use 1mm but 0.5 is easier.  Then bend the strip around something sturdy like a paintbrush handle.  Keep bending it at 1mm intervals over and over until it curls up.  You can bend and straighten it several times and make it relax a bit.  Then apply glue and roll it up.  Apply loads of tape and leave it overnight.

You can see the turrets taped up here:


Final result
http://s46.photobucket.com/user/richardhumble/media/IMAG0564_zps71de91a8.jpg.html

More pics here:
http://www.warlordgames.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=9432

[Arunman]

Thank you Rich H for the explanation and the photographs. I think your and Michi's plasticard models look great! The method you described will work fine for me when I get to do some WH40K Rogue Trader conversions of the scifi plastic model kits. For the fantasy model pieces' flags and banners made of thin plasticard, I guess I could try the same wraparound method to make the parts of the banner that bend over the horizontal pole to secure it. So far that has been the hardest thing to do by heating, as those small plastic flaps tend to shrink or bend away in a very uncontrollably manner when heated.

[Rich H]

Heated plasticard is very hard to control.  The only time i use it is to make headlamp pods! 

If interested:
Drill a hole in a block of wood slightly larger than the end of your paintbrush handle.  Heat the plasticard with a hot air gun. It will roll up the suddenly relax flat.  Place that on your block and press the paintbrush handle in.  Needs to be longer than the final pod so you can trim it. 

Trim to size paint the inside silver then carefully tease pva across the opening.  This will give a glazed headlamp if you get it right.

Cant find a decent pic I'm afraid.