Advice on cutting windows & doors

[flags_of_war]

Guys looking for any tips on cutting windows and doors on foam board?

I have tried it a few times and  I don't feel I'm doing anything particulary wrong, but I'm never happy with the end product. I use a steel rule and scalpel.

Also any tips on cutting windows on foam the has been covered in embossed sheets. Would you cut the windows before adding the sheets or do them both at the same time?

Iain  

[sukhe_bator]

Depends if you want to leave the foam exposed.
The crispest edges will always be achieved by cutting through the outer face into the back. Then if it tears you will not spoil the front. 
I'd always do this before adding embossed sheets, otherwise it will be like keyhole surgery avoiding the cladding...

If not;
then I'd mark out the aperture in pencil/pen, then mark a diagonal cross from the corners on the inside face. Cut the cross with a scalpel all the way through. Then cut the inside face window surround almost all the way through and carefully peel off and remove the inner card and foam. This will leave 4 tabs that you can fold back through the hole and glue to the inner face. You may need to lightly score the card a little deeper than the thickness of the foamcore sheet to achieve a crisp fold.

[Rich H]

Embossed sheets - add them after and cut them seperately.
I make infills and windowsills that cover the foamcard

[Malamute]

It may sound like a silly thing to say but a fresh scalpel blade makes a huge difference. They blunt very easily cutting foamcore.
 I have had the same trouble as its usually the windows/doors that get cut out last once the wall sections have been cut. By then the scalpel blade is starting to blunt and then the tears happen.

[flags_of_war]

What about making sure the windows are straight? Does it matter much at 28mm scale? Ive seen some guy make buildings and the stuff looks laser cut it's that good. Just wonder if there is a knack to it.

[sukhe_bator]

Accuracy depends on the period being modelled, but I'd agree with Malamute, foamcore blunts scalpel blades like nothing else!

[MediumAl]

With thick walls the challenge for me is to get the cuts perpendicular to the face of the wall. If back and front don't match up it ends up with a slant which to me looks a bit odd. I tend to use Styrofoam rather than foamcore, but I constructed some jigs out of plasticard which can be used to sandwich the wall and mark it, so the cuts match up on both sides. A couple of threads where I have used them;
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=91448.msg1129417#msg1129417 and another one on the warlord games forum - I'd thought it was on here but it was a while back.
http://www.warlordgames.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=4250

Al

[Rich H]

I use a laser cutter....

[Dr Mathias]

I often punch a nail or pin through each corner, and cut from both sides.

Using a sharp blade is great advice.

[Andym]

I often punch a nail or pin through each corner, and cut from both sides.

Using a sharp blade is great advice.

Oh, I'd never thought of that one! Cheers for that!

Simple one....don't use a scalpel! I use one of those snap-off blades. I find I can cut a straight line, at right angles to the surface, a LOT easier with one of these!

[flags_of_war]

Oh, I'd never thought of that one! Cheers for that!

Simple one....don't use a scalpel! I use one of those snap-off blades. I find I can cut a straight line, at right angles to the surface, a LOT easier with one of these!

Just these ones?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-IRWIN-Retractable-Snap-Off-Knife-Handle-9mm-NO-BLADE-BULK-PACK-/322157682472?hash=item4b02181f28:g:BU0AAOSwd0BV6aVy

[Andym]

In all honesty, either of these type of blades will do.......



Although, I prefer the bigger one of the two. It's better for straight lines, where I find the thinner one better for curves. Hope that helps mate!

[Hammers]

Micro mark has this corner cutter in their catalog:

[Mindenbrush]

I bought myself a good quality steel square to ensure that all my edges are correct.

Depending on what type of building you are making, the doors and window apertures can be 'squared' up with the external wooden beams or filled with 'render'.