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Author Topic: Bronze Age Miniatures Scale Comparison Question. Rogue Trooper & John Carter.  (Read 16484 times)

Offline Sinewgrab

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Blast you, Heldrak. Now I have even less reason to avoid ordering them to go alongside my Free Norway army.
"There is no known cure for the wargaming virus, only treatments with ever increasing doses of metal."

Offline Heldrak

  • The Dark Elf
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  • LPL IV Bronze Medalist
Blast you, Heldrak. Now I have even less reason to avoid ordering them to go alongside my Free Norway army.

I dunno, Sine'... If you're using Foundry historicals or similar, your Bronze Age figures may look weirdly tall alongside them on the tabletop (perhaps not a problem if they're meant to represent an alien race from a lower-gravity world, but still...).
2012 Lead Tally: Painted:0

Offline Sinewgrab

  • Scatterbrained Genius
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Blast you, Heldrak. Now I have even less reason to avoid ordering them to go alongside my Free Norway army.

I dunno, Sine'... If you're using Foundry historicals or similar, your Bronze Age figures may look weirdly tall alongside them on the tabletop (perhaps not a problem if they're meant to represent an alien race from a lower-gravity world, but still...).

No, they are 28mmBelgians from Brigade Games - it should work fine.



See? I know that Copplestone and Pulp work well together, so I infer from that that they will be fine. I couldn't put my copplestone figures into this pic, as they are being finished for LPL Round 10.

Offline Heldrak

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Again, I dunno Sine' -

Brigade Games stuff always looks small to me and Pulp Figures material always looks short in comparison to Copplestone Castings. Take a look at my LPL Round 4 entry:

http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=11057.msg128374#msg128374

The Copplestone Detective is considerably taller than his Pulp Figures counterpart, and against a Bronze Age figure (already taller than a Copplestone) the difference is going to be magnified. I've got some Brigade Games Musketeers lying around that I didn't get done for an LPL entry- If I get a chace I'll paint them up and then you can see a scale comparison between Brigade Games and Bronze Age. Frankly, I think the scale difference will create a dissonance on the tabletop... :?

Offline Sinewgrab

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Heldrak, the Norwegians are Brigade Models, not Brigade Games. They match up quite nicely with my Imperial Guard, my Pulp Germans, and my Hasslefree figures. I'll order some, and we'll see. I have a bunch of Copplestone Cavemen I am finishing up for the competition, and they don't look too tall beside my Pulp - at least not to my eye. Heh, we'll see. I am in desperate want of those Green Martians, though. Bronze Age does a beautiful job with those.

Offline cheetor

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Now that my Martians can finally rest from their labors in the LPL, here is a scale comparison photo showing a Bronze Age Dead Earth Imperial (Martian) against a Copplestone Castings figure and a couple of others...

Thank you again for taking those photos.  Relative to the majority of my figure collection I think that the BA guys should be fine... once I decide how to deal with the huge metal bases. 
sho3box: my painting (and occasionally gaming) blog.

Currently working on: Terminator Genisys, Necrons, post-apoc terrain.


Offline warrenpeace

  • Mastermind
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Thank you again for taking those photos.  Relative to the majority of my figure collection I think that the BA guys should be fine... once I decide how to deal with the huge metal bases. 

The sculptor intended that the large metal bases be used as bases.  He thought he was saving painters the trouble of gluing on a base.  Unfortunately, some people don't like the already cast bases.
Sailors have more fun!

Offline Heldrak

  • The Dark Elf
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  • LPL IV Bronze Medalist

Thank you again for taking those photos.  Relative to the majority of my figure collection I think that the BA guys should be fine... once I decide how to deal with the huge metal bases. 

The sculptor intended that the large metal bases be used as bases.  He thought he was saving painters the trouble of gluing on a base.  Unfortunately, some people don't like the already cast bases.

It's one thing to have a modest standard-sized base ala Foundry, Pulp Figures, etc. It's another thing entirely to have such a huge chunky beast that's an unmitigated pain to remove (I actually broke two sets of angle cutters trying to hack the bases off my BA figures and that was after I had been sawing them with a jeweler's saw...!).

Offline cheetor

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    • sho3box

The sculptor intended that the large metal bases be used as bases.  He thought he was saving painters the trouble of gluing on a base.  Unfortunately, some people don't like the already cast bases.


I am aware that the intention is that the cast bases remain on the figures.

In my experience most collectors, painters and in particular gamers like to have a semblance of uniformity in how they base their figures.
People who have a dislike for slot bases seem to usually clip the tab off and rebase on a washer or a coin or similar. 

Bases like those on Foundry or Copplestone figures can esily be either removed or simply covered up when attached to a "standard" base.  Not so with the BA figures it appears.  I think that it was a poor decision to use a base design that is largely incompatable with most of what else is out there.

It is a testament to how good some of the figures look that many still seem to buy them knowing the removing the base will be so troublesome.  I cant wait to get my hands on some of them :)


Offline flooglestreet

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    • Old Spaceways
What is a good way to paint Green Martian skin and Black Pirate skin? The latter is especially puzzling because ERB says it's true black, which is a very unsatisfactory color to shade.

Offline Heldrak

  • The Dark Elf
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  • LPL IV Bronze Medalist
I've got a Bronze Age Tars Tarkas which I'm going to get around to relatively soon, so I'll post it up here with a how to when I'm finished. Currently, I'm planning to use Foundry Storm Green (27A/27B/27C) and also Coat D'Arms Black Green and Dark Green. Storm Green is a more subdued grey/green and CdA Dark Green is a brighter, grassier green. Right now, the plan is to use CdA Black Green as a basecoat and them the Foundry Storm Green triad, with the CdA Dark Green mixed in if it's not coming out green enough.

Otherworldly black skin (Black Martian Pirates, Drow, etc.) is always a trial. I don't recommend using brown as a highlight, as they always wind up just looking African. I am planning to get some of the new Bronze Age Black Martian Pirates eventually, but it will probably be a while before I can get around to them. The most successful treatments of Drow skin that I've seen all use blue elements and/or grey elements for highlights. You have to be careful with giving otherworldly black skin enough highlights or it just winds up looking unfinished.

Black is frankly troublesome to highlight in any form (as the highlights take it away from looking black). My advice would be to use a blue/grey for mid-tones & highlights and to keep the highlights small, but keep them sharp and keep them bright so they stand out. I used to collect photographic examples of Drow skin paint-jobs, but I won't be able to post them (as I don't have the rights to the images). It might be worthwhile to check CMON (Cool Mini Or Not) using "Drow" as a keyword to see if you see some examples of black skin that you like. It might also be worth checking Google Image search, but then you'll wind up with a lot of illustrations that don't have anything to do with figure painting.

Offline cheetor

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    • sho3box
I think that it was a poor decision to use a base design that is largely incompatable with most of what else is out there.

Sorry to reanimate this thead a bit but my Bronze Age order arrived this morning and I felt compelled to mention it.  I am seriously impressed with the crisp detail and style of the figures that I ordered, so much so that I dont give a hoot about the bases.

Just in case being negative about the bases might put some of you off buying them: dont let it.  I havent got this much of a kick out of opening a parcel full of miniatures for a long time.  I recommend that you give Bronze Age some of your money now ;)

Offline manic _miner

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    • Four A miniatures
 The Rogue Trooper miniatures from Bronze age are smaller than the Foundry one.I think they are better.Bronze age have also done ten not Norts.They will make a better starting piont for a game and cheaper than the Foundry ones.

Offline Heldrak

  • The Dark Elf
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What is a good way to paint Green Martian skin and Black Pirate skin? The latter is especially puzzling because ERB says it's true black, which is a very unsatisfactory color to shade.

Please pardon the threadomancy, but I promised Flooglestreet that I would provide a recipe for Black Martian skin when I got around to doing my Pirates, and I thought that others might like to know as well. First, here are the Pirates themselves:



These were done primarily using the Reaper Master Series Dark Elf Skin triad, but I added a further base coat with a 50/50 mix of the Reaper Dark Elf Skin Shadow Color + Foundry Black and a final highlight of the Reaper Dark Elf Skin Highlight + a small amount of VGC (Vallejo Game Color) Wolf Grey (#72047). In the final result, they came out a little more grey than I might like, but I felt like the additional highlight/loss of "blackness" was worth it it to bring out more detail. As I mentioned before, it's always a tradeoff when painting otherworldly black skin how much darkness you want to sacrifice to show more of the features.

Stay tuned to this thread and I may also have a recipe for Green Martian skin after round 10 finishes... ;)

Offline TheMightyFlip

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Nice, reminds me of an old issue of Excalibur

 

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