Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Topic started by: Silent Invader on 18 January 2011, 02:37:39 PM
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I am looking into building a tunnel complex that will have in-built lighting.
This old TMP post
http://theminiaturespage.com/boards/msg.mv?id=42954
mentions something called Light Sheet that sounds like it'd do thejob for subdued corridor lighting.
Trouble is, my google-fu is failing me...... the TMP post is the only hobby reference I can find. Can anyone else illuminate me? (did you see what I did there? ;D)
EDIT= title change
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(did you see what I did there? ;D
Yes.... ;)
The light sheet doesn't really work that well, unless you want a barely visable dull glow.
The linky below is for the electrical company we use and you can pick up anything there, they even have a technical helpline which can be quite useful
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/?cm_mmc=UK-PPC-_-google-_-0_RS%20Brand-_-RS_Exact&gclid=CNj7iaj_w6YCFUYe4QodrBhaIA (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/?cm_mmc=UK-PPC-_-google-_-0_RS%20Brand-_-RS_Exact&gclid=CNj7iaj_w6YCFUYe4QodrBhaIA)
cheers
James
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if you have time, the led options would be the best.
but you need to cable the whole diorama with metal wires, that's annoying.
why don't you make also some tubes with cold smoke? you just need a ultrasonic water boiler, it is perfectely safe and cheap to make - buy, and you can make smoke in your tunnels too (it is cold smoke, so it remains on the lower level!
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(JB.... looking at you! ;D
I'm looking back ;D
Yes, I've used them a few times before. What you have to take into consideration is the source light and what it is housed in. I don't know how much room you've got but you will need the light in a box with either holes or a fan so the heat doesn't build up. Most fibre optics come already bundled so you don't have to worry about that (you should be able to choose the size of the ends, opposit to the light source aswell ie: single optic, bundle of 10 etc.).
The optics don't have a great bending radius so you won't be able to bend them at 90 degrees etc.
If you want I'll see what we have here and let you have some to play with :)
Your idea sounds perfectly feasible but the only thing as I mentioned before is the space you have 'outside'.
cheers
James
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Keep us updated how you go. I'll be watching this very careful, I'm looking to add similar effects to a Mega City 1 board I'm putting together.
I rejected the light sheet as too expensive, too dull a light and have started fiddling around with LEDs but will be interested to see how you get on.
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if you have time, the led options would be the best.
but you need to cable the whole diorama with metal wires, that's annoying.
why don't you make also some tubes with cold smoke? you just need a ultrasonic water boiler, it is perfectely safe and cheap to make - buy, and you can make smoke in your tunnels too (it is cold smoke, so it remains on the lower level!
I have to ask what is cold smoke? And how do you make it?
Duncan
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I have to ask what is cold smoke? And how do you make it?
I think it's when you have a cigarette outside in the winter...
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I think it's when you have a cigarette outside in the winter...
lol
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I have to ask what is cold smoke? And how do you make it?
Duncan
i don't know the name in english... there is a ultrasonic vibration that makes water evaporate without high temperature . it is used for umidificators! ^^
but maybe a smoke machine could work better! ;)
it was just a guess... i think it is quite hard to make it work on a tabletop!!
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I have to ask what is cold smoke? And how do you make it?
Duncan
I believe he means a fog machine like one of these.
http://www.halloweeneffects.us/Fog_Machine_Sale_24_s/22.htm?gclid=CM7P2-uCyaYCFRBzgwodCgSQJA
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Uhh, no, those are the heavy duty versions, used to create fog in, let's say, a concert hall. ;)
There are smaller ones like -this- (http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/551103/MINI-NEBLER-MIT-12-LEDS/SHOP_AREA_22515&promotionareaSearchDetail=005) (sorry, I just took the link to a German site, but I think you'll get the meaning), and as Sangennaru said, they work with water and not a special fluid. You'll still be able to see the rest of your gaming room, as it wouldn't be the case with those big fog machines.
Hope this helps ;)
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9GBoF8aw7VA&feature=related
http://www.mainlandmart.com/foggers.html
as haupt said
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Seeing as we use a lot of waterbased paints and glues, how do the miniatures and terrain hold up to the water mist after many uses?
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A small piece of dry ice goes a long way. Just drop it in a cup of water and watch it work.
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Seeing as we use a lot of waterbased paints and glues, how do the miniatures and terrain hold up to the water mist after many uses?
A small piece of dry ice goes a long way. Just drop it in a cup of water and watch it work.
yes, true... i was thinking about the wetting too... but it still looks too cool!
for the dry ice... it is the best solution of course, but... do you have it? it is almost impossible to find it here...
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yes, true... i was thinking about the wetting too... but it still looks too cool!
for the dry ice... it is the best solution of course, but... do you have it? it is almost impossible to find it here...
I've got it before, but not for gaming. I work in entertainment and every now and then You have to get it for low lying fog effects. I have a chemical place not far from me where I can buy it. To my knowledge it is not a controlled substance or whatever you would like to call it (at least in the US). It has been a while since I've had to do that though.
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i think that breaking the tube you make the light split into several smaller holes, not mentioning the light dispersion from the irregularity of the cuts.
i'm afraid you should use one single optic fiber for each light.
and still, covering the end of the fiber with black tape doesn't help, and the same for the led... you should use a optic fiber led, or at least use some reflective alluminium to try to collimate the light... :)
but it looks really intresting, i wanna see how it develops! :)
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so... why dont you change for small light bulbs? you should need only a few of them (like leds) because their light is really strong.
and they have also a low voltage requirement... all you have to do is to put two wires all around, and then connect them to all the leds. maybe small leds, so you can handle them with four AA batteries or a small converter ^^
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you will notice a difference. you'll lose a % of the light at each cut... the more cuts the weaker it gets the further away from the lightsource. the way to get all the lights the same brightness is to run a separate cable for each one.
you'll also find you need a clean cut to get a torch like glow and the only way you'll get any is from the end of the fibre. in fact you'll probably find you need a bundle of fibres together to get a good glow.
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Might I suggest checking out this site for easy led wiring solution
http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/lightsforminis.html
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Steve, I've had a quick read through your recent posts and I shall have a proper read through tomorrow but I might have something for you :) (if you can wait until a week on Friday ;) )
cheers
James
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am following this thread with interest, as i've got some lighting planned, of my own.
:)
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I remember a Kromek game in the UK, years ago, with Miners lamps and dry ice in the tunnel complex. :-I
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just remember to don't use high intensity leds, but just simple weak ones.
with them you can handle a dozen of them or more with no trouble, just a few mA...
I remember a Kromek game in the UK, years ago, with Miners lamps and dry ice in the tunnel complex. :-I
WOW! do you have links? i'm really interested!
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What you may need is multi-strand fibre optic cable instead of single strand (64 strands inside a 3mm cable) See: http://thefiberopticstore.com/purchase/endglowcable.htm. The curve radius is for the bundled cable I believe.
Tip:If you want a less pinpoint end glow you can diffuse the light by flaring the end into a lens shape using a soldering iron.
Also, don't use CA glue (we all know how you love to use it) as it can damage the strands; damaging the sheathing (reduces light transmission) and making the strands brittle (they can snap later on if there's any stress on the strand). Use epoxy, PVA, hotglue.
Keeping an eye on this thread as I'll also be using lighting soon.
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I've decided to go down a slightly different route, with the lighting for my own (Battlestar Galactica) project:
I don't want to mess about with wiring up individual LEDS, need something that is pretty robust, but at the sametime, can be broken down easily, when the ship goes into storage, so i've hit upon using some readymade strips of LEDS.
(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh72/AKULADEEP/BSG/P1050433.jpg)
Each strip is about 12 inches long, with a dozen LEDS on each strip. I've got plenty of connector wire, which can be unplugged, as and when I need to separate the boards.
(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh72/AKULADEEP/BSG/P1050434.jpg)
I've also got various other types of LEDS, some of which are battery-fed - the "cluster" type include 24 lights - i'm going to use these for the engines. The black circular "sieve" is from a microwave meal.
(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh72/AKULADEEP/BSG/P1050435.jpg)
The basic set of 3 strips, plus an extension set of another 3 strips, costs c£65, in total - pricey, but then consider that you get 72 LEDS, all the connector wiring, which is literally just plug and play (ie no soldering), switches, and fittings etc, and the whole packaged is robust enough to withstand some rough treatment, it works out pretty cost effective IMHO.
:)
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Look forward to seeing how your project develops (I am guessing that it will be a biggy, perhaps on a par with the aircraft carrier? :o)
technically speaking, it will be BIGGER
lol
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You might also want to look at EL wire (electroluminescent wire). I've used it for computer cases, and it is some pretty cool stuff. The wire gives off light in all directions and can get bright depending on the size of the wire and the voltages you use, plus it is nice and flexible depending on the diameter of wire you use. The wire runs off AC current, so to get it battery powered you need an inverter, but those aren't very expensive.
In the US, I've used http://www.coolight.com/ (http://www.coolight.com/). They have everything you need, although if you Google EL wire you can get calculators that will figure out what inverter you need based on the length of wire you want to run.
Plus, it looks very Tron.