Lead Adventure Forum
Other Stuff => Workbench => Tutorials => Topic started by: Geudens on 28 May 2008, 08:40:46 AM
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The method (developped by Johan - also of this forum - and myself) is based (mostly) on the use of inks and reversing the usual paint process. First the model is undercoated (grey) and then the undercoat is "inked" with either ink or a thinned acrylic of a darker tone than the prevaling color of the figure (or model). The darker the colour chosen, the harder the contrast. This may range from medium brown to dark khaki, violet to black.
You might also undercoat in black, if you really, really like heavy contrasts or if you are painting figures in full blank metal armour (you can then drybrush the metal on the black primer, but that's a well known thing).
Next, the whole figure is drybrushed in an ivory shade (not in white!). Do this carefully and evenly: it will determine the quality of your highlights and shades!
The figure is then inked with either ink or paint thinned down to "ink" with Valejo acrylic thinner, creating an instant and automatic shade (even for hands and faces). With some inks, you might need two layers or otherwise enrich the ink with a (tiny!) drop of the matching acrylic colour.
With figures, a little highlighting and detailing (metal parts) ends the job. But, since the surface of vehicles is much larger than that of a figure, it is very thinly washed with at matching ink after the highlighting (to "blend" all layers) and then again highlighted with the lightest colour used (but only very slightly, to bring out details). E.G.
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=5996.0
This walker was thinly washed with W&N yellow ochre to blend the layers.
After some practice, you can reduce your painting time with 50% or more (the less colours involved, the greater the time gain).
Make sure that the inks you use are water resistant! This is my pallet:
Winsor & Newton Calligraphic inks
GW inks
Vallejo inks
FW Acrylic Water-Resistant Artists Ink (30 colors, including light grey!)
Acrylic paints from Coat d'arms & Vallejo (but others might do just as well).
I have at least six brown inks of different manufacturers, but they all vary in colour, so it's well worth investing in these.
First "inking" on the grey undercoat (using cheap acrylic hobby paint):
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm262/geudens_photos/magenta.jpg)
Highlighting with ivory (using cheap acrylic hobby paint):
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm262/geudens_photos/DSC00768.jpg)
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm262/geudens_photos/drybrush02.jpg)
Finishing the faces with one stroke of (thinned down) flesh ink:
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm262/geudens_photos/gezichten.jpg)
The finished product (apart from gun metal, only inks were used):
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm262/geudens_photos/Tallarn04.jpg)
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm262/geudens_photos/Tallarn05.jpg)
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm262/geudens_photos/Tallarn06.jpg)
These figures took about than 15 minutes to paint in batches of 8 (allowing time to dry, but if I'm pressed for time, I dry them in my kitchen oven at 50°C (even plastics)). The system won't make you win painting contests, but will create armies.
Rudi
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Amazing.
15 minutes?
I'm going to try that today or tomorrow. If that works, I may have just found the 99 cent paint job.
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Amazing.
15 minutes?
I'm going to try that today or tomorrow. If that works, I may have just found the 99 cent paint job.
Good luck sir! A word of advice: since you are working with inks or paint "thinned down" to ink, do try to stay "within the lines": correcting with this system (from darker to lighter colours, that is) is harder than when using "covering" paints. However: since ink flows better, let it do its work by letting it flow in (e.g.) the dividing lines between different details of the figure (= different colours) rather than risking your brush to slip. If you're not sure how intense the ink should be applied (flesh comes to mind), start with a layer of more thinned down ink, you can always apply a second layer to darken the effect and intensify the colour untill you find the formula that suits you best. After about 20 figs, you'll get the hang of it and come up to speed.
Rudi
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Wow Rudi!
Fantastic stuff - well done to you and Johan 8)
I have about 60 Zanzibaris to paint, not to mention half the Zulu nation, so I will give your method a try.
Who cares about winning competitions, the end results are more than good enough for the unwashed masses, especially if they can be done that quickly :)
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Wow Rudi!
Fantastic stuff - well done to you and Johan 8)
I have about 60 Zanzibaris to paint, not to mention half the Zulu nation, so I will give your method a try.
Who cares about winning competitions, the end results are more than good enough for the unwashed masses, especially if they can be done that quickly :)
Thx! Actually, I can do (Foundry) Darkest Africa natives (spear & shield or bow) dressed in loincloth in under 9 minutes up to the same standard as the Tallarn (correction: Taliban lol) above, using this method (remember: the fewer the number of colours, the faster it goes!). Also: the pics above show on your screen twice the size of the real thing, reveiling more than the eye can see (overscaling the details as sculpted and - minor - flaws in casting), so take my word for it: they look even better viewed with the naked eye, even at close range.
Rudi
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(so take my word for it: they look even better viewed with the naked eye, even at close range.)
I think they look pretty good now.
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I can vouch for that. When I saw these figures up close they were even better tan the pics show.
BTW part of this method can also be used by people (like me) that use oil paint instead of acrylics.
Proceed as Rudi explains but instead of 'inking' in the colours 'dry-brush' with almost undiluted oil paint.
I still prefer to add some details like eyes and such in the traditional way but even for me my average working time has been cut by at least a third.
The results are almost indistinguishable from 28mm figures painted with the traditional wet- in- wet technique which takes far longer.
For 15mm figures the results are even more stunning especially with good quality ones like Peter Pig or Eureka.
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Thanks for the tips Rudi. I got someone testing it right now on some GW Gnoblars.
I'm very excited to see what we can come up with!
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I can vouch for that. When I saw these figures up close they were even better tan the pics show.
BTW part of this method can also be used by people (like me) that use oil paint instead of acrylics.
Proceed as Rudi explains but instead of 'inking' in the colours 'dry-brush' with almost undiluted oil paint.
I still prefer to add some details like eyes and such in the traditional way but even for me my average working time has been cut by at least a third.
The results are almost indistinguishable from 28mm figures painted with the traditional wet- in- wet technique which takes far longer.
For 15mm figures the results are even more stunning especially with good quality ones like Peter Pig or Eureka.
Indeed, I was very pleased when I first saw the "oil variant" of Willie: he's an expert oil painter not to be persuaded to switch to acrylics, but I'm glad his solution helped him gain some precious time too!
Rudi
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Thanks for the tips Rudi. I got someone testing it right now on some GW Gnoblars.
I'm very excited to see what we can come up with!
It should work out well: GW figures are well sculpted (am I saying this???!!!, I need to take my medicine... lol) and the better and more detailed the figures are sculpted, the more spectacular the results of this method (scale has no influence: it works very well with nice 20mm plastics too).
The thing is that this method "highlights" the quality of the sculpt, it does not camouflage poor design as might be done (well, partially at least...) by a classic paintjob. "Smooth" figures (e.g. 25mm Minifigs) are also less suited as far as results are concerned, but the speed factor would remain the same. Mind you, I hold nothing against M'figs (I own thousands of them from the time I was their Benelux distributor (20 years ago now... o_o) and am still proud to be their commander).
Rudi
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Fantastic technique, thanks for that, maybe now, just maybe! ::)
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IIANM this is the same theory behind the washes that GW has released.
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Gee, maybe we gave them them the idea? lol
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IIANM this is the same theory behind the washes that GW has released.
Really? We've been using this method for quite a while now, so it seems we'll have to charge GW (for a change :D)
Rudi
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Rudi,
Can you tell me what brand of the "cheap hobby paint" you use for the drybrushing? I ask because I got some problems doing that right. I almost always get a "woolly" effect when drybrushing white. Do you have any tips for that? I try your technique with an Old Glory WWI figure but it was inconclusive to say the least… :?
Anyhow I’ll keep trying. I still get a bunch of Perry’s plastic ACW to do! ;)
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Rudi,
Can you tell me what brand of the "cheap hobby paint" you use for the drybrushing? I ask because I got some problems doing that right. I almost always get a "woolly" effect when drybrushing white. Do you have any tips for that? I try your technique with an Old Glory WWI figure but it was inconclusive to say the least… :?
Anyhow I’ll keep trying. I still get a bunch of Perry’s plastic ACW to do! ;)
The brand I use is Folkart
http://www.sunshinecrafts.com/dept_view.php?DPath=PAINT~ACRYLICS~APFA~APFA02&Page=1
I think you can get it worldwide in craft stores (since it's sold in Belgium and appearantly the other side of the pond as well...).
Anyway, the drybrushing should be done in ivory, not white since this gives too hard an (underlying) contrast. I suspect that you get a "woolly" effect because the paint you use is too "grainy" or you should try and thin the paint slightly since it's too thick and chunks remain in the brush after wiping it. Do not use too much water either or their will be no pigment left in your brush when you wipe it prior to drybrushing. This said, a very "slight" woolly effect doesn't matter. You may always mail me a few closeups of the figures (you've still got my email address I suppose), perhaps I can better conclude and help from a pic.
Best regards,
Rudi
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I was rather impressed by this idea so I just went and had a go myself. I forgot to do the first two stages as I had a figure undercoated in white, so I basically just went from there, it was only when re-reading the instructions I realised my mistake...
Here is my Pulp figure I did - apologies for the finish but it is my first attempt.
to be honest (as someone said earlier) he actually looks better in the flesh so to speak) I did make a vouple of mistakes, but I have gone over them since the photo was taken and given him another going over in those areas. The biggest mistake was using a straight flesh wash...doh! he went yellow!!!
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc31/Maenoferren/washpaintjob.jpg
see what you think and let me know where to go next.
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see what you think and let me know where to go next.
It is a bit hard for me to judge, since this is a figure I don't own :'( (or have seen myself). Judging from the coat, I would suggest you try to get a little more contrast when drybrushing and perhaps thin the ink a little. During the learning process it is better to try with two thin layers than one thick, which might ruin the underlying contrast of the drybrushing and the "base" colour (black, brown, khaki, whatever you use). Once you get the hang of it, one unthinned layer will do in most cases.
To avoid "stains", it is also important to distribute the ink as evenly as possible (much like painting) on the ivory drybrush, only allowing it to be more concentrated in the folds of the cloth . Nevertheless: a nice first try!
Rudi
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Thanks for the reply.
The stains came about when I went from new GW washes to old and they are a lot thinner. therefore they ran staight downwards....
As mentioned I forgot to dry brush over a darker wash so will try that on the next one. But anyway thanks for the inspiration, I shall endeavour to improve. My wife reckons it is one of the best figures I have painted, now this has me worried, what does it say about the ones before???
But from first attempts, great things may appear....If nothing else it got a figure painted in 20 mins.... so that must be a bonus...
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Who cares about winning competitions, the end results are more than good enough for the unwashed masses, especially if they can be done that quickly :)
Referring to the unwashed masses that play with our figures at the club or at gaming conventions? Right on that...
Have a friend who has been using this type of quick wash method for years. His paint times per figure are similar. He uses inks and thinned accrylics. He gave a great demonstration of his technique at my apartment last weekend on some Darkest Africa figures. What is astonishing is that he even uses the technique on firearms with satisfactory effect. He uses a reddish or purplish brown wash over a light undercoating on muskets and rifles and comes up with a look that is playable without going to the extra trouble of painting gunmetal.
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Making this one sticky for a bit. geudens, would you mind putting that in a PDF so we can upload it as an article?
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Who cares about winning competitions, the end results are more than good enough for the unwashed masses, especially if they can be done that quickly :)
Referring to the unwashed masses that play with our figures at the club or at gaming conventions? Right on that...
lol Sorry, I was talking about figures, ie the rank and file/tribesmen/riff-raff etc. I use basic washes for those and a combination of techniques for painting characters etc, to try and make them stand out a bit.
However, there are quite a few gamers I've met who would benefit from a wash or two........
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Making this one sticky for a bit. geudens, would you mind putting that in a PDF so we can upload it as an article?
Why not, that would be great. Bear a couple of days with me and tel me what to do with or where to send to the pdf.
Rudi
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I paint another figure using this speed painting method. I use an "Antique White" color this time which is more of an off-white, creamy color. It worked very well. ::)
I still need to find the correct color combinations… >:( The mistake I made this time is that my first shading wasn’t dark enough. I can see the shading looking closely at the figure but at "medium range" it doesn’t really show. The figure is of a Confederate artillerymen and I think that I should have used a black instead of a dark brown for this first shading since the coat is grey and the pant are medium blue. I think that It will go well with some more practice and once I found the good paint/thinner ratio on the different colors. ;)
Cheers! :)
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I still need to find the correct color combinations… >:( The mistake I made this time is that my first shading wasn’t dark enough. I can see the shading looking closely at the figure but at "medium range" it doesn’t really show.
You are so right about the contrast of the underlying colour in the fastpaint system. when painting e.g. Mahdists, dark khaki is OK (because of the white robe), but with ACW (US) black is required. This is the core of the whole system: the right level of contrast between the base colour and the ivory so that the effect does not disappear when you apply one or two layers of ink. In fact, the contrast should highlighten the effect. Sometimes this turns out to be a bit smoothed out, in which case I do a very quick hightlighting with the ink "enriched" with the tiniest drop of white paint. Still, this shouldn't lengthen the time it takes to paint the figure more than with half a minute or so.
Rudi
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Recently tried a variation on this technique but without a dark undercoat. The intent was to achieve a very faded/washed-out look for olive drab uniforms. The results were in many ways superior to my usual efforts at half the time, so I'm more than half convinced to keep at this!
However, it wasn't until after I tried out this 'faded-look' that I recalled this thread and wonder now if I would have had even better results with a dark undercoat + ivory dry-brush first.
For the life of me, though, I'm not sure what colour I would have chosen for a dark undercoat for a faded US Vietnam era fatigues. Any advice?
Thanks,
Thomas
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black or a very dark brown would do fine.
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For the life of me, though, I'm not sure what colour I would have chosen for a dark undercoat for a faded US Vietnam era fatigues. Any advice?
Thanks,
Thomas
The trick is to apply a slighty darker the undercoat compared to the top colour, so I would advice something in the direction of olive drab, russian green or similar.
Rudi
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Agreed. Something like Vallejo MC olive drab maybe?
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Agreed. Something like Vallejo MC olive drab maybe?
Yes, but best thin it with 50% water.
Rudi
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Got it; that's sound advice. I think the lovely Violet shading coat chosen for the example set my mind 'wandering' with the possibilities for contrasts. ;)
Thanks for this. Lead Adventure is such an excellent resource & community.
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Violet
That sparked another possible base shade for you, VMC Brown Violet. Odd name for a color, but I find it very useful.
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Thanks for that. Taking a quick peek with colour match (http://colors.silicon-dragons.com/) over at silicon dragons the brown violet does seem like a fine starting point. I'll pick some up at my favourite LHS next time I visit and see what brown violet looks like in real life.
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Thanks for the great tips. I gave this a shot over the last few days. My figures were primed black and then dryibrushed with a Reaper paints Ivory. I've got a couple of pics:
(http://www.rotanddrivel.com/captains.jpg)
Comparison shot. Figure on the left was fast painted.
(http://www.rotanddrivel.com/sailors.jpg)
This whole group was fast painted in an afternoon. I put a sepia wash over the whole figure after painting to get them to match the other half of the unit that was dipped.
(http://www.rotanddrivel.com/dippedsailors.jpg)
Dipped sailors
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Making this one sticky for a bit. geudens, would you mind putting that in a PDF so we can upload it as an article?
Did this ever get uploaded as a PDF article? If so, where can I get it?
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Yes please, a nice PDF would be lovely...
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I have taken the liberty of making Geudens first post about his methods of speed painting into a PDF for personal use.
Geudens, if this offends you please let me know... I will delete it.
I would LOVE to see a PDF of your methods by your hand... made idiot-proof and taking us noobies baby step by baby step through the process start to finish.
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I have taken the liberty of making Geudens first post about his methods of speed painting into a PDF for personal use.
Geudens, if this offends you please let me know... I will delete it.
I would LOVE to see a PDF of your methods by your hand... made idiot-proof and taking us noobies baby step by baby step through the process start to finish.
No problem with the PDF, that's why I posted the stuff in the first place. Anyone wanting to do the same is welcome to it. All that was to be said at the time is in my first posting. A possible update would be that the excellent "shades" by both GW & Vallejo (cheaper, but less tones) could be added as a finishing touch.
Rudi
Rudi
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I want to try this method with my Wargames Factory Saxons, any chance of getting a copy of this PDF?
Thanks!
Abel
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BIG BUMP!!
Hey, Rudi.
Is there anyway you could type this up into an idiot-proof (Warren-proof) tutorial? What colors did you use? Where you got those colors? Step by step guide from start to finish that would baby-walk us through it all?
I just want to have a VERY good understanding of it all before I try it out.
Thanks!
Warren
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BIG BUMP!!
Hey, Rudi.
Is there anyway you could type this up into an idiot-proof (Warren-proof) tutorial? What colors did you use? Where you got those colors? Step by step guide from start to finish that would baby-walk us through it all?
I just want to have a VERY good understanding of it all before I try it out.
Thanks!
Warren
Yes very interested in seeing more on this topic from anyone willing to share Thanks
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Is there anyway you could type this up into an idiot-proof (Warren-proof) tutorial? What colors did you use? Where you got those colors? Step by step guide from start to finish that would baby-walk us through it all?
Agreed - it's how you get from "the faces with one stroke..." stage to the "finished product" stage I'd like to see more of if possible.
Doug
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The method (developped by Johan - also of this forum - and myself) is based (mostly) on the use of inks and reversing the usual paint process. First the model is undercoated (grey) and then the undercoat is "inked" with either ink or a thinned acrylic of a darker tone than the prevaling color of the figure (or model). The darker the colour chosen, the harder the contrast. This may range from medium brown to dark khaki, violet to black.
You might also undercoat in black, if you really, really like heavy contrasts or if you are painting figures in full blank metal armour (you can then drybrush the metal on the black primer, but that's a well known thing).
Next, the whole figure is drybrushed in an ivory shade (not in white!). Do this carefully and evenly: it will determine the quality of your highlights and shades!
The figure is then inked with either ink or paint thinned down to "ink" with Valejo acrylic thinner, creating an instant and automatic shade (even for hands and faces). With some inks, you might need two layers or otherwise enrich the ink with a (tiny!) drop of the matching acrylic colour.
With figures, a little highlighting and detailing (metal parts) ends the job. But, since the surface of vehicles is much larger than that of a figure, it is very thinly washed with at matching ink after the highlighting (to "blend" all layers) and then again highlighted with the lightest colour used (but only very slightly, to bring out details). E.G.
http://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=5996.0
This walker was thinly washed with W&N yellow ochre to blend the layers.
After some practice, you can reduce your painting time with 50% or more (the less colours involved, the greater the time gain).
Make sure that the inks you use are water resistant! This is my pallet:
Winsor & Newton Calligraphic inks
GW inks
Vallejo inks
FW Acrylic Water-Resistant Artists Ink (30 colors, including light grey!)
Acrylic paints from Coat d'arms & Vallejo (but others might do just as well).
I have at least six brown inks of different manufacturers, but they all vary in colour, so it's well worth investing in these.
First "inking" on the grey undercoat (using cheap acrylic hobby paint):
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm262/geudens_photos/magenta.jpg)
Highlighting with ivory (using cheap acrylic hobby paint):
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm262/geudens_photos/DSC00768.jpg)
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm262/geudens_photos/drybrush02.jpg)
Finishing the faces with one stroke of (thinned down) flesh ink:
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm262/geudens_photos/gezichten.jpg)
The finished product (apart from gun metal, only inks were used):
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm262/geudens_photos/Tallarn04.jpg)
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm262/geudens_photos/Tallarn05.jpg)
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm262/geudens_photos/Tallarn06.jpg)
These figures took about than 15 minutes to paint in batches of 8 (allowing time to dry, but if I'm pressed for time, I dry them in my kitchen oven at 50°C (even plastics)). The system won't make you win painting contests, but will create armies.
Rudi
Interesting stuff. An alternative painting method and one that saves time as well.