Fastpaint method, based on inks

[Geudens]

Rudi,

Can you tell me what brand of the "cheap hobby paint" you use for the drybrushing? I ask because I got some problems doing that right. I almost always get a "woolly" effect when drybrushing white. Do you have any tips for that? I try your technique with an Old Glory WWI figure but it was inconclusive to say the least… 

Anyhow I’ll keep trying. I still get a bunch of Perry’s plastic ACW to do! 

The brand I use is Folkart

http://www.sunshinecrafts.com/dept_view.php?DPath=PAINT~ACRYLICS~APFA~APFA02&Page=1

I think you can get it worldwide in craft stores (since it's sold in Belgium and appearantly the other side of the pond as well...).

Anyway, the drybrushing should be done in ivory, not white since this gives too hard an (underlying) contrast.  I suspect that you get a "woolly" effect because the paint you use is too "grainy" or you should try and thin the paint slightly since it's too thick and chunks remain in the brush after wiping it.  Do not use too much water either or their will be no pigment left in your brush when you wipe it prior to drybrushing.  This said, a very "slight" woolly effect doesn't matter.  You may always mail me a few closeups of the figures (you've still got my email address I suppose), perhaps I can better conclude and help from a pic.

Best regards,

Rudi

[Maenoferren]

I was rather impressed by this idea so I just went and had a go myself. I forgot to do the first two stages as I had a figure undercoated in white, so I basically just went from there, it was only when re-reading the instructions I realised my mistake...
Here is my Pulp figure I did - apologies for the finish but it is my first attempt.
to be honest (as someone said earlier) he actually looks better in the flesh so to speak) I did make a vouple of mistakes, but I have gone over them since the photo was taken and given him another going over in those areas. The biggest mistake was using a straight flesh wash...doh! he went yellow!!!
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc31/Maenoferren/washpaintjob.jpg
see what you think and let me know where to go next.

[Geudens]

see what you think and let me know where to go next.

It is a bit hard for me to judge, since this is a figure I don't own  (or have seen myself).  Judging from the coat, I would suggest you try to get a little more contrast when drybrushing and perhaps thin the ink a little.  During the learning process it is better to try with two thin layers than one thick, which might ruin the underlying contrast of the drybrushing and the "base" colour (black, brown, khaki, whatever you use).  Once you get the hang of it, one unthinned layer will do in most cases.

To avoid "stains", it is also important to distribute the ink as evenly as possible (much like painting) on the ivory drybrush, only allowing it to be more concentrated in the folds of the cloth .  Nevertheless: a nice first try!

Rudi

[Maenoferren]

Thanks for the reply.
The stains came about when I went from new GW washes to old and they are a lot thinner. therefore they ran staight downwards....
As mentioned I forgot to dry brush over a darker wash so will try that on the next one. But anyway thanks for the inspiration, I shall endeavour to improve. My wife reckons it is one of the best figures I have painted, now this has me worried, what does it say about the ones before???

But from first attempts, great things may appear....If nothing else it got a figure painted in 20 mins.... so that must be a bonus...

[warrenpeace]

Who cares about winning competitions, the end results are more than good enough for the unwashed masses, especially if they can be done that quickly

Referring to the unwashed masses that play with our figures at the club or at gaming conventions?  Right on that...

Have a friend who has been using this type of quick wash method for years.  His paint times per figure are similar.  He uses inks and thinned accrylics.  He gave a great demonstration of his technique at my apartment last weekend on some Darkest Africa figures.  What is astonishing is that he even uses the technique on firearms with satisfactory effect.  He uses a reddish or purplish brown wash over a light undercoating on muskets and rifles and comes up with a look that is playable without going to the extra trouble of painting gunmetal.

[Hammers]

Making this one sticky for a bit. geudens, would you mind putting that in a PDF so we can upload it as an article?

[Gluteus Maximus]

Who cares about winning competitions, the end results are more than good enough for the unwashed masses, especially if they can be done that quickly

Referring to the unwashed masses that play with our figures at the club or at gaming conventions?  Right on that...

  Sorry, I was talking about figures, ie the rank and file/tribesmen/riff-raff etc. I use basic washes for those and a combination of techniques for painting characters etc, to try and make them stand out a bit.

However, there are quite a few gamers I've met who would benefit from a wash or two........

[Geudens]

Making this one sticky for a bit. geudens, would you mind putting that in a PDF so we can upload it as an article?

Why not, that would be great.  Bear a couple of days with me and tel me what to do with or where to send to the pdf.

Rudi

[Calimero]

I paint another figure using this speed painting method. I use an "Antique White" color this time which is more of an off-white, creamy color. It worked very well. 

I still need to find the correct color combinations…  The mistake I made this time is that my first shading wasn’t dark enough. I can see the shading looking closely at the figure but at "medium range" it doesn’t really show. The figure is of a Confederate artillerymen and I think that I should have used a black instead of a dark brown for this first shading since the coat is grey and the pant are medium blue. I think that It will go well with some more practice and once I found the good paint/thinner ratio on the different colors. 

Cheers! 

[Geudens]

I still need to find the correct color combinations…  The mistake I made this time is that my first shading wasn’t dark enough. I can see the shading looking closely at the figure but at "medium range" it doesn’t really show.

You are so right about the contrast of the underlying colour in the fastpaint system.  when painting e.g. Mahdists, dark khaki is OK (because of the white robe), but with ACW (US) black is required.  This is the core of the whole system: the right level of contrast between the base colour and the ivory so that the effect does not disappear when you apply one or two layers of ink.  In fact, the contrast should highlighten the effect.  Sometimes this turns out to be a bit smoothed out, in which case I do a very quick hightlighting with the ink "enriched" with the tiniest drop of white paint.  Still, this shouldn't lengthen the time it takes to paint the figure more than with half a minute or so.

Rudi

[Mr. Peabody]

Recently tried a variation on this technique but without a dark undercoat. The intent was to achieve a very faded/washed-out look for olive drab uniforms. The results were in many ways superior to my usual efforts at half the time, so I'm more than half convinced to keep at this!

However, it wasn't until after I tried out this 'faded-look' that I recalled this thread and wonder now if I would have had even better results with a dark undercoat + ivory dry-brush first.

For the life of me, though, I'm not sure what colour I would have chosen for a dark undercoat for a faded US Vietnam era fatigues. Any advice?

Thanks,
Thomas

[Johan]

black or a very dark brown would do fine.

[Geudens]

For the life of me, though, I'm not sure what colour I would have chosen for a dark undercoat for a faded US Vietnam era fatigues. Any advice?

Thanks,
Thomas

The trick is to apply a slighty darker the undercoat compared to the top colour, so I would advice something in the direction of olive drab, russian green or similar.

Rudi

[Aaron]

Agreed. Something like Vallejo MC olive drab maybe?

[Geudens]

Agreed. Something like Vallejo MC olive drab maybe?

Yes, but best thin it with 50% water.

Rudi