Tank Treads

[jamesmanto]

Right

It's been a long time since I did up a 1/72nd scale tank kit. But new project, new scale and I couldn't go with 15mm gaming models with one piece track units. How is one supposed to put the rubber tracks together?

[Westfalia Chris]

Right

It's been a long time since I did up a 1/72nd scale tank kit. But new project, new scale and I couldn't go with 15mm gaming models with one piece track units. How is one supposed to put the rubber tracks together?

Depends on the manufacturer and the material used. Airfix tracks are awful, vile stuff that need a combination of epoxy glue, flattening the plugs with heat and using pins to keep them in place. Old Matchbox were easier, I used a spot of superglue on the join and at every point the tracks touch the wheels. Best IMHO are the Dragon tracks which seem to be made of a soft vinyl that takes superglue rather well and is soft enough to survive being put on the wheels.

[jamesmanto]

I have a dragon kit I'd have thought there was too much flex for super glue.

[Ste long 1971]

Some of the new dragon DSL tracks can be joined with liquid cement / plastic weld ( slaters mek, tamiya Gunze Sanyo, rebellion contacta)

[Ste long 1971]

Sorry a victim of iPhone spell check that should read revell

[SBMiniaturesGuy]

I just finished two 1/48 scale KV-1 models for my 28mm games. The Tamiya kit used individual track segments, but the older Bandai kit used rubber treads like the ones you're struggling with. I tried the pin & melt method, but given the tension the tracks are under once you fit them onto the roadwheels, even with superglue and other glues they'd eventually pop off. So ended up using small lengths of duct tape wrapped around the track joints, in addition to glue. Then I slathered the small duct tape area with Tamyia "Mud" to hide it. Looks OK, hard to tell I used duct tape and it's strong and the tracks stay on.

[Westfalia Chris]

I have a dragon kit I'd have thought there was too much flex for super glue.

I've done a lot of their 1/72 kits back when I did 20mm WW2, never had a problem with those. For a Panther tank, for example, I used to glue down the track on the rear top run of the wheels while still open, then sling it round, glue the "bottom" joint end to the bottom of the wheels, and finally glue the "top joint" end in place. Always worked well. As said, Airfix and Heller issued of Airfix kits have a very stiff vinyl which is awful, Hasegawa is of similar softness as Dragon and easily applied, but shows the models' (and moulds') age.

[Gunbird]

Right

It's been a long time since I did up a 1/72nd scale tank kit. But new project, new scale and I couldn't go with 15mm gaming models with one piece track units. How is one supposed to put the rubber tracks together?

If you are after 1/72, PSC makes excellent 1 and 2 piece track units, and so does Pegasus, just to name 2 of my favorites for wargames purposes.

[Ballardian]

In the past working on 1/72 stuff I've used a couple of stitches (fine thread) & even fine staples - as others have mentioned, once the tracks are glued down onto the running gear, you can hide pretty much any joining method.

[jamesmanto]

If you are after 1/72, PSC makes excellent 1 and 2 piece track units, and so does Pegasus, just to name 2 of my favorites for wargames purposes.

Oh I appreciate PSC! Done 2 sqdns of Sherman's and like them a lot.
But PSC doesn't have this vehicle. 

[huevans]

I did my own Dragon flexi-tracks w superglue no problem. But beware, if you paint the tracks they will harden and become rigid over time.

I painted some Dragon tracks a couple of years ago and never got around to finishing the models. When I dug them out a few weeks ago, the tracks were totally crisp and rigid and snapped when I attempted to bend them.

[jamesmanto]

huh, bit of a problem since I have to get the tracks on before I finish assembling.

[S_P]

I use staples, then squish them flat with pliers

[MartinR]

As above, if all else fails use staples and then flatten them with pliers. Works every time.

Cheers
Martin