Bit of advice needed about Gripping beast plastic Vikings and Saxons...

[Harry Faversham]

Got a box of each for Crimbo and am really looking to get started on 'em. Any words of wisdom on how to clean the cast lines that go right across the fingers on some of the figures? Also, what's the best method to fix the LBM shield transfers, do you cut the hole* for the shield boss or is there a hole punch you can get for the job?
Any help or advice would be most appreciated.

*I'm assuming you do have to cut a hole in the transfer?

[zenbadger]

Can't help you with the transfers but for the mould lines on hands I just scrape firmly with a craft knife oriented in the same direction as the fingers, scraping across the hand. I then finish off by polishing it up on a scrap of denim. Seems to work ok and if it still looks rubbish a couple of careful strokes with a triangular needle file do the trick.

[Vermis]

Well... my solution was to dump them and wait for metal Renegade minis to come back. But otherwise I'd suggest using some care and maybe some kind of mould line scraper.

[WillieB]

Hi Harry,

They are actually really nice figures and don't need much work. If at all possible I would also get a box of Gripping Beast Dark Age warriors for the 'lesser' troops on both sides. You can , of course, mix and match the 3 boxes.

As Zenbadger already suggested use a 'sharp' scalpel to scrape off any mould lines. If needed finish off with a very fine grit sandpaper. I use the one stretched on a metal U- frame but can't remember the name right now.
Stick the figures together with liquid glue. That way you actually melt the two pieces together, giving you a very strong bond and mostly filling any gaps.

Paint shield white then gloss varnish. The shield bosses are already cut out in the LBM decals so you don't need to do that.
Wet the shield with a little water, cut out the decal, and peel off the plastic layer. Sometimes a bit fiddly but certainly do-able.
Place the decal face down on the shield press down and wet the paper backing. Peel off the paper after 30 seconds or so.
You might have to touch up the decals with a little paint but they are definitely worth the time.

[Harry Faversham]

Thanks lads for all your help. Must admit it's a long time since I got this excited about painting a box of toy soldiers, just shows that even after 45 years at it, gthis hobby of ours takes some beating!

[Captain Blood]

Scrape off as much of the mould line as you can without damaging the moulding itself using the edge of a scalpel blade. Then paint liquid polystyrene cement over any residual mould line. Brush it in, in the direction of the 'grain' of the moulded piece (i.e. down the fingers, not across them) and the liquid glue will miraculously 'disappear' any sign of the mould line.
Clean the brush with thinners. Good as new.

[PanzerKaput]

Now thats a good tip thanks there

[Harry Faversham]

Definitely one for the back pocket... thanks, Cap'n. 

[cram]

Regarding the LBM transfers, I use a small nail scissors to cut out the decal. I have sometimes found the plastic layer a bit of a nightmare to peel off due to the rounded shape of the shield, there are no corners to get you're nail under to pick off the plastic layer. So now when I cut out the shield I leave a thin tab on it, I find the tab helps me to pick off the plastic layer, the tab has corners to pick at for a start. Once the decal is down on the shield I cut off the tab.

Hope that's of some help!