Primer Filler for printed models

[GDonk]

Evening all
Just taken delivery of a beautiful 3D printed model from Winterdyne Commission Modelling (WCM). Its a 28mm, Black Scrolls Games "City of Tarok Bakery" , printed under licence in the UK by WCM. As I mentioned earlier its very, very lovely. It's my first 3D print purchase and I'm enormously impressed. It clearly been printed on a very high quality printer. I does however nevertheless have very, very fine print lines. They're not in the slightest bit intrusive to the naked eye but I think they will be accentuated by painting and highlighting. I think I read a post fairly recently (probably within weeks rather than months) of someone using or recommending the use of a primer/filler spray on 3D prints to lose print lines, but I can't remember who or on which forum within LAF. I want to retain the fantastic detail of this beautiful model whilst losing the fine print lines. If anyone can help with an "out of the can" solution it would be very much appreciated.
Cheers
G-Donk

[Verderer]

Was it Mr. Surfacer from Gunze Sangyo, by any chance?

[S_P]

I use Mr. Surfacer on my 3d prints too

[zemjw]

Mr Surfacer comes in various thicknesses, so be careful which one you get. It's a bit like sandpaper, where the higher the number, the thinner the paint.

Be aware that it stinks, so proper ventilation is required. There is a brush on version, and I had to wear a mask while using it

[Truscott Trotter]

I use Mr. Surfacer on my 3d prints too

Which number do you use?

[GDonk]

Many thanks to all of you for that.  Is Mr Surfacer a US or UK product?

[zemjw]

I've bought it in the uk, but I think it's a US product

You can get it from the likes of amazon

[Verderer]

Surely it's Japanese with a name like that?

Yeah, and the tins have Japanese on them too, I guess.

But it's widely available in all well-stocked model hobby shops around the world (even in Finland these days!)

[S_P]

Which number do you use?

Grade 1000- doesn't go on too thick

[zemjw]

Surely it's Japanese with a name like that?

Yeah, and the tins have Japanese on them too, I guess.

But it's widely available in all well-stocked model hobby shops around the world (even in Finland these days!)

That will teach me to reply last thing at night without bothering to check the stuff in the cupboard

I used 1000 on a 3d print which worked well, although it took two or three layers with sanding in between. However, if the lines are really fine, you may want to try the 1500, to minimise the chance of obscuring any details.

[Verderer]

Oh yeah, I am not sure but I think Gunze might be a brand owned by Tamiya?

I haven't tried Mr. Surfacer myself, but I am considering getting it for a couple of vehicles that have such lines. I think they're casts made from 3d printed models?

[Codsticker]

I have been curious to try it myself. I understand that some scale modelers use it to add texture- they must be using the thicker stuff and stippling it on.

[digid]

Try painting a little acetone on the bottom of the model. Depending on the PLA used to print it might react with the resin just enough to let it flow and fill in many of the lines. I do that on all my prints, but not all PLA will work. I brush it on, let it soak in a bit, add a little more and brush across the lines, or dab the brush. Go lightly and see what you get. You will get discoloration of the model I prime with cheap Home Depo .99 cent black flat primer which also fills in jus a bit. When I am done my models are void of lines if the base model is printed at .12.

[GDonk]

Thanks again for all your replies and tips. Will let you know how I get on. Cheers, Joe