Black Seas L'Orient build

[Ray Rivers]

Thanks, mate!

I think to really do that deck well you need an airbrush.

I went back and used a very light dry bush with an ocher color. It didn't work miracles, but I was able to get rid of the "splotchy look". So, yep, that was an improvement.

[marianas_gamer]

Looking nice Ray! Painting these complex shapes looks really fiddly. I am interested that you initially finished painting the deck before starting the gunwales. I would have done them consecutively in layers because I would have been worried that I would have screwed up and intruded on the finished deck. Not saying that technique is a better way to go, rather that you have more confidence in your painting skills. Am watching with interest.
Lon

[Ray Rivers]

Hi Lon!

Thanks for the nice comment and taking the time to post.

As for your question concerning my painting technique... yep, most (if not all) folks start with the hull and finish with the deck.

Over the years, I have developed a "back asswards" technique for painting. For example, if it is a 28mm miniature I start at the feet and work up. Weird, I know. In this case, my plan was to start at the deck and then work outwards. So as you will see with the next photo I post (probably tomorrow), I continue from the deck and am working down the sides of the hull. This is almost all black in color. Anything inset I paint first. In this case, the yellow for the gun decks.

Also, this ship has somewhere around 100 guns sticking out the hull, and each must be surrounded with a little black box. IMO, it is the hardest part of the model to paint.

Hopefully it will come out well... but as a first try, I'll settle for okay.

[Ray Rivers]

On another topic... I have become increasingly concerned about the strength of the bowsprit.



Take a look at this photo and the join where the bowsprit meets the hull. Notice that in width it is actually a tad less than the rest of the spar. I accidentally touch the bowsprit every now and then and it bends.

I'm thinking I may need to cut it off and pin it. 

[Ray Rivers]

Here is an update as I begin painting the hull (photo a tad dark):



This is going to take a lot of work to finish...

[Ray Rivers]

The next step was to paint black boxes around the guns. Remember there are over 50 guns per side and that means, for example, 100 vertical black lines to paint.

Here is a WAY TO CLOSE shot of the starboard side which is still in progress:



You just have to accept that things are not going to come out perfect.

After I painted the boxes, I then painted everything else that was black, trying to be as tidy as possible and then did some Panzer grey highlights. The last thing I did was paint the gun ports white to accept red paint and here I just passed the brush over the edges of each one as they have lots of definition.

Here is a WAY TO CLOSE shot of the Port side:



And here is a shot a bit further back:



The Port side only needs the guns and gun ports to be painted to be finished (more or less). It's not perfect but I'm really liking it and my wife told me "She's a beauty!"

 

[Shahbahraz]

I am thinking that looks splendid. Not too close at all.

[Ray Rivers]

The full is finished. Photos are a bit overexposed.

Really close (so you can see all the imperfections):



A bit back:



Sooo many lines to paint... 

Next... the bow.

[Captain Blood]

It's coming together well Ray 

[DeRuyter]

On another topic... I have become increasingly concerned about the strength of the bowsprit.



Take a look at this photo and the join where the bowsprit meets the hull. Notice that in width it is actually a tad less than the rest of the spar. I accidentally touch the bowsprit every now and then and it bends.

I'm thinking I may need to cut it off and pin it. 

Nice job so far. I bought the HMS Victory model and do agree that the plastic hulls have better detail. I too started with the deck same as I did painting Langton 1/1200 models.

On the bowsprit issue you may not need to cut and pin it. Doing the standing rigging plus adding gammoning under the bowsprit should do the trick. A good photo of the Victory will show how it is supported.

[Ray Rivers]

Thanks all!

@DeRuyter: Gammoning could have worked but I would have needed to put an attachment to the bow before I glued on the entire bowsprit piece. Impossible to get in there now and try that.

I also looked at possibly adding a line or lines from the bow up to the bowsprit like this:



Unfortunately, the figurehead gets in the way.

So I'll probably try to secure it, one way or another via rigging, although it will not be historic in nature.

The Gods of wargaming will forgive me! 

[Ray Rivers]

So...

I cut off the bowsprit and will pin it back on when I finish painting the hull completely and mount my masts.

I had a feeling right from the start that this would happen. I don't treat my models badly. It was never dropped; just had a bump every now and then.

I should have known better... oh well... lesson learned.

[Ray Rivers]

Bow finished (photos a little dark):





And here is one from a distance (a bit out of focus):



The circles on each side and low down on the bow are for the anchor ropes. I drilled these out and intend to actually use them.

To be quite honest, when the bowsprit broke, I thought I was done. But I preserved and, actually, found it made painting the bow far more easy.

Next photos should be of the hull finished. Merry Christmas folks!

[Shahbahraz]

Looking good, keep plugging away for us to enjoy.

[Ray Rivers]

Ah... finally, a productive day.

Finished the stern, which with the exception of the ships boats, is the hull complete. Hopefully tomorrow I can post a photo or two.

Don't know if this is of interest to anyone... Thought I would post a photo of all the stuff I have used so far. My... tools of the trade: