A good red and white.......?

[Thunderchicken]

Any suggestions on who produces a nice thick red and white. When I say thick I mean in consistency.
Paint not wine!

The reds and whites I have in my paint collection are too watery wont be up for the job I have lined up for them. I have various breeds of red and white by Vallejo, GW and Miniature Paints but none of them are cutting the mustard.

Alternatively, any tips on how I might thicken them up?

Thanks.

[Andym]

For a nice rich red have you tried GW Mechrite Red as a basecoat with layers of Blood Red up to Blazing Orange and Blazing Orange/rotting Flesh mix for a final highlight. That's the cocktail I use on my best minis. White is a harder thing. It depends on if you want a warm or cold White. Again GW Codex Grey up to Skull White for cold or Dhenb stone to Skull White for warm.

What's it for anyway TC?

[James Morris]

I second GW Mechrite Red - best covering red I have ever come across.  The whole Citadel Foundation range is very good IMO.

[Svennn]

Inscribe Snow is the best white I have used and Holly Berry is a damn good red (looks shit on the aldous site though - it is much brighter)

http://www.fredaldous.co.uk/model-shop/paint-accessories/craft-acrylic-paint/inscribe-59ml-acrylic-paint.html

If you go this route order some Snow and Raven (my favourite black) for me too please

[Captain Blood]

Inscribe Snow is the best white I have used and Holly Berry is a damn good red (looks shit on the aldous site though - it is much brighter)

http://www.fredaldous.co.uk/model-shop/paint-accessories/craft-acrylic-paint/inscribe-59ml-acrylic-paint.html

If you go this route order some Snow and Raven (my favourite black) for me too please

Seconded. Never tire of telling people how these nasty cheap 'craft' acrylic under the Inscribe or Palmer label, in great big 59 ml bottles, are infinitely superior miniatures paints for opacity and pigmentation, than all the ridiculously expensive little diddly-diddly fancy-named bottles of 'hobby' acrylic which so many gamers and modellers are irrationally addicted to, even though many of them are total sh*te 

[Blue in vt]

hhhmmm...interesting...I will have to look for similar products on this side of the pond.

My take on red relies heavily on the Vallejo Model color products.  I base coat black...then cover all the areas with VMC 814 Cad. Umber Red...this is highlighted through VMC 926 Red...and finally up through VMC 947 Flat Red.  Even with these paints...which I find cover quite well you may need multiple coats of each color.

My white technique employs some OOP paints (PollyS) so I'm not sure they would help much but I start with a tan base and work up through white.  Here are a series of pictures that illustrate my process.








I hope that helps...

Cheers,

Blue

[fastolfrus]

Blue in vt - we use a hobby acrylic called "Anita's All Purpose acrylic craft paint".
Comes in 2 US fl oz bottles, we get it from the local draft store, half the price of Vallejo, but 4 times the size. Only a limited run of colours (but all "art" colours) just missing out on specialist/military colours such as khaki.

TC - what do you need it form and when you say red, do you mean bright red/scarlet or hull red/terracotta?
Anota's have some good terracotta shades, never looked for scarlet. Just 99p a bottle.
Vallejo Game Colour "bloody red" is quite a good scarlet, locally it's cheaper (£1.50)than the other Vallejos.

[Bugsda]

I second what Svennn and the Captain say about Parker/Inscribe.

Flow and opacity can be improved further by the adding of Plaka Signal Red and Miniature Paints white.

[Thunderchicken]

Thanks very much chaps, just the advice I needed.

Svennn, I'll get you that black.

Blue, very nice paintjobs 

Andy and Fastolfrus, I'm working on my BLAM project which is a Victorian version of the Italian Job but based in East London  . I'm about to paint up the steam contraptions I'm using as the getaway vehicles and while I'm good for blue I'm having problems with the white and red. I use a sort of dry brushing method but when I take the moisture out of the red and the whites I have it takes most of the colour with it!

[aircav]

Inscribe Raw Umber is a fantastic dark brown without any redness thats in other dark browns 

[Bugsda]

...........but when I take the moisture out of the red and the whites I have it takes most of the colour with it!

Your never going to dry brush red, it's too transparent a colour. I reckon you'd be better off painting layers with washes inbetween.

[Thunderchicken]

That sounds like a good plan. I'll experiment with that idea at the weekend and see how it comes out. Do you have any pics of examples?

[Bugsda]

Do you have any pics of examples?

Nope, this is all theoretical, never actually done it myself 

I seem to remember getting a right good result with Samurai armour by layering plaka red between glazes of W&S brick red ink, but that was long before the advent of the digital camera   

[JollyBob]

TC, the reds on these figures were done with the layer and wash method.







If I remember correctly, I also used either scorched brown or dark flesh for the base colours, especially on the vamp's cloak. Several washes of GW Baal Red, Sepia, red ink or even Tamiya Clear Red can help give tone and depth to the finish.

Best advice is to play about with different shading on a couple of old models until you find the one you want, and most importantly, keep notes of the different combinations of layer and wash, or you'll never get it the same.

Hope that's some use to you.  

[Thunderchicken]

Thanks JB, the shield on the first pic is the look I'm after so that's a great help. 

Thanks again chaps.