*RAGE* Cleaning Up Metals!

[Gibby]

Hi all,

I swear to God I have some kind of clean up disability when it comes to metal miniatures. I can be at it for 20 minutes and all I've achieved is removing the biggest mould lines, scratching the crap out of the model with the files, accidently gouging bits off with the craft knife, and got myself covered in lead powder. I don't know how you lot do it. I look at pictures in and see perfect figures with not a single blemish, mould line or any other form of rubbishness, but mine, after I've tried my very best using all tutorial techniques available, am left with just "ok" figures that still have weird pitting, bizarre smooth bits where I've filed too much and STILL haven't removed the mould line I was getting at, and in general just a rubbish finish.

I think I'm in the wrong hobby

Does anyone have any advice? Maybe there's a key secret I'm missing...

[Heldrak]

It is frustrating, isn't it?

How many files do you have and what shapes are they?  I find that I get the most use out of the round and the half-round, but square, triangular, flat and rat-tail all have their uses too. I also find that it helps to have different grades of file- rougher ones for heavy work and finer ones for detail work. Some people also use different grades of sanding film.

As regards pitted metal surfaces, some of the high-end modelers make a thin slurry with miliput and use it to smooth out pitted surfaces.

Even for advanced folks who have been in the hobby a long time, you always have that experience where you think a model is perfectly clean and then when you go to prime or paint it there are big honking mold lines that you somehow didn't see.

[Connectamabob]

One difficulty I personally have often with cleaning metal is reflectivity. Once you start tooling the metal, its surface becomes a bit hard to see correctly thanks to all the diffraction and reflection going on. This is one of the biggest ways in which seams, texture, faceting and other flaws can seem to "hide" until painted.

One solution to that is to use a silver sharpie marker to check your surfaces as you go. The "silver" ink renders everything a uniform dull pewter grey, allowing you to see the topography clearly.

As regards pitted metal surfaces, some of the high-end modelers make a thin slurry with miliput and use it to smooth out pitted surfaces.

There's also brush-on scratch filling primers which are used to the same effect. "Mr. Surfacer" is a well known hobby brand made by Gunze-Sangyo, but you can also get primers like these at auto part shops.

Yet another way is to apply a lacquer based filler like Squadron Green or Bondo Spot & Glazing putty, then wipe it flush with a nail polish remover soaked tissue.

As far as tools go, my main workhorses are a diamond micro file (they come in sets, but the one I use 90% of the time is a tapered one that's flat on one side and curved on the other), and a #15 scalpel blade in an X-Acto handle (the blade is a much better shape and material than hobby blades, and the handle is more ergonomic for hobby work than a scalpel handle). The main thing no matter what tool you're using is to use a very light touch: don't apply pressure at all, just touch it to the surface and let the sharpness/abrasiveness do what it needs to all by itself.

Magnification can help too. A strong pair of reading glasses, an opti-visor, or a magnifying desk lamp is IMO an all around good bit workbench kit to have.

In situations like this:

bizarre smooth bits where I've filed too much and STILL haven't removed the mould line I was getting at

That means the seam/step was too deep to begin with, and should have been filled as well as or instead of just filed. Always keep your focus more on the lines & curves of the sculpted shape then the seam when cleaning. It's okay to subtractively change the sculpted shapes a little, as long as the result still looks natural in context, but if you get to a point where you can see that you can't reduce a seam much further without risking unnaturally distorting of flattening something then stop right there and switch to an additive method.

You shouldn't ever deeply or aggressively file/scrape unless you're clearing land for a mod. You want to do only just enough get rid of the light seams and true up the edges of the deep ones, then fill in whatever's left, and give it a wee final kiss with the file/sandpaper to make sure the putty edges are fully blended.

For seam repair use a putty that's easy to smooth and feather. GS doesn't feather/blend well enough for that sort of work (it can be used, but it requires much more technique to get equivalent results). Either use a lacquer based putty, or one of the more clay-like epoxy brands.

[zizi666]

Files are important. I'm lucky to have some industrial grade needle files in different shapes and grades.
I found that most of the times, after priming a mini, I still can see seams which I thought I got rid of. 
If that's the case, I go over it again. 

[Gibby]

Thanks for the tips guys. I have some diamond needle files and I'm getting there. Sometimes I just get a bit aggressive with it and lose patience. I'll invest in some putty for the pitted bits in future! Thanks again

[Bugsda]

Scrape with the tip of a scalpel then finish with fine grade wire wool, I hardly use a file.

Don't rush, don't look at the clock, don't think about what your doing. be one with the casting 

[Argonor]

I spend at least 30 minutes cleaning up each metal mini, and often more. With detailed multi-part plastics, an hour is more the rule than the exception.

I also use needle files, both diamond and regular, various shapes, and an exacto knife for scraping. And, yes, some of those cavities (especially on resin stuff.. bubbles ) simply have to be filled, and misshapen equipment has to be re-sculpted with a little putty.

I find this task to be one of the least rewarding in the hobby. You buy a nice mini, and then you add a lot of work, and then you have... the mini you purchased, still waitng for paint... 

[Brummie]

I often just remove the most excessive flash lines and grizzle, then go over bits lightly with a file, I've never really had too many problems in honesty... But depends on the manufacturer.

[Bergil]

I've never had issues just using a scalpal. try holding it with your thumb at the back of the blade or reverse that. It just takes a little patience. Rarely use files I have to be honest.