Rope Bridge <-- Finished, 1/1/14

[mikedemana]

"He not mad, lady...he crazy!" With those words, Short Round and Kate Capshaw hold onto the rope bridge for dear life in "Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom." What with my last Pulp terrain piece being a cannibal's cookpot, it was time to do another equally iconic terrain piece from Pulp movies: a rope bridge spanning a chasm.

I'd been wanting to do a rope bridge for my Pulp games for awhile, but had been waiting on genius to strike. I knew the base material I would use, but not how I would make it more than a one-shot, stand-alone piece. I wanted something that could be used to span any number of chasms in games -- not attached or sized to just one set of cliffs, or whatever. I finally hit on a modular design which would allow me to adjust the height to fit whatever chasm I was planning to span. The gap would remain the same, but how high up the rope bridge was above the tabletop could be adjusted.

This craft store "Picket Fence" would be turned on its side and become the base of my rope bridge (the pointy ends trimmed off with a wire cutter). The wire that holds the fence together is bendable and holds its shape well -- making it a ready-made stand-in for Indy's rope bridge...!

The base material would actually provide me with most of the work pre-made. I'd long ago spotted the craft wood "Picket Fence" that Hobby Lobby, Michaels, and other stores sell. Turn it on its side, and scale-wise and look, it was a perfect stand-in for a rope bridge. And once I made the decision to forgo a certain aspect of my anal-retentive, perfectionist nature, I knew it would be even easier. I decided NOT to have any handholds or railings on this rope bridge. Yes, I know that in real life, any such construction would definitely have them. I was willing to give up that realism, though, in return for ease of construction. Besides, it is for Pulp games -- not a historical diorama!

The first leap of genius (I'm being generous to myself, here...!) was my decision to make the rope bridge butt up against whatever the gap would be it was spanning. Originally, I'd been thinking of something that would sit on top of cliffs, hills, or whatever. I couldn't figure out how to make it sit evenly on any type of surface. But by making it free-standing, all I had to do was shove whatever cliffs I'd be using on the tabletop up against it, sandwiching it in, so to speak. The obvious first choices would be the cliff pieces I made for my French & Indian War games from pine bark.

The top and bottom of each segment of the pillar holding the bridge ends would be made from one of these birch wood rectangles -- carved into irregular shapes, of course

Still, I was "stuck": Other than making every single gap the same height, how do I make this piece truly modular and adaptable to later tabletop setups? The final piece of the puzzle came when I decided to construct the "pillar" -- the piece that each end of the bridge would rest upon -- out of segments that could be stacked one atop the other to reach the correct height. The segments themselves would each end in a piece of sturdy birch wood -- the kind you can buy from craft stores for $1.99 a bag. Originally, I thought I'd use circles, but later decided birch rectangles would fit the shape better. The middle of each segment (the "meat" between the birch wood "sandwich") would be made up of layers of 5mm craft foam, which goes by various names in stores ("Silly Winks Foam Sheets" at Hobby Lobby). I could vary the width of each layer to represent the erosion and horizontal striation of the rock (I think that is the right term...I teach Social Studies, not Science!). The various segments would be held together by earth magnets and steel applied to the ends of the stiff birch wood tops and bottoms of each segment.

The craft foam which would provide the "layers" or striation of the rocky pillar each end of the bridge would rest upon

So, my concept was finalized, and now construction could begin. I cut a 9-inch section of the picket fence (the pack I bought was like about a yard long!), and then trimmed off the pointy ends of each fence board. This made it look more like the boards of a rope bridge. I then slid the end boards out of each terminus of the bridge. I cut four dowel segments and trimmed them to points for the four posts that would hold the bridge in place. I forced each dowel through the empty wire loop where I'd removed the boards. They fit perfectly!

Although it is hard to see, I would sit one layer on top of the craft foam and draw the outline of the next, slightly larger layer in pencil

I then made each bridge end piece by cutting out and shaping three layers of craft foam to go atop a rectangle of birch wood. The layers would get progressively wider as they went up from the wood base -- which I also rounded the ends on to give a more irregular appearance. The layers were glued together with Tacky glue, and also glued atop each birch square. Once dry, I pressed each dowel bottom firmly onto the top foam piece to mark the spot each post would be. This circle was roughly hollowed out with an X-acto knife. The hole was filled with a squirt of Tacky glue and the two posts pressed down into it so they attached to the bottom, and the layers of craft foam held them in place. Once this was done with each side, I bent the entire bridge into a pleasing, looping arc. The thick wire connecting the boards held the shape. The last two boards rested on top of the craft foam, but I figured that was okay.

This photo shows how the last board was removed from each end of the bridge, and the wire gap turned sideways. The dowel posts were then forced through the empty wire loops

Stage one was done! The next step would be to create the segments that would be stacked underneath each end of the rope bridge to raise it to the proper height dictated by the scenario. I liked the way it looked sitting on my desk. So far, so good!

Stage 1 complete! The rope bridge spans the two birch wood and craft foam end pieces, held in place by the dowel posts

[Wolf Girl]

NICE! I want to see what you have planned for this bridge! 

[Traveler Man]

It looks neat!   

[Mad Lord Snapcase]

More genius, looking forward to seeing the rest.

[Amalric]

Looking good!
I can't wait to see it complete and in action.

[mikedemana]

Thanks, everyone. Here is part two of the build...


The heavy metal bottom bases (layering of styrene and metal bases which will be the very bottom of the assembly. The bridge in the background with the pine bark pieces, as detailed below

I mentioned in the last post the sectional "sandwiches" I was creating for the bridge to sit upon. By stacking up as many of these sections as I wanted, I could vary the height of the bridge. If you remember, the sandwich was created by using rectangular birch wood pieces from Hobby Lobby as the "bread," and 5mm black craft foam as the "meat." Like any good sandwich, the meat overhangs the bread in an irregular fashion. This varying of sizes between each of the layers will hopefully make it more realistic. I used five slices of craft foam per section, attaching them one atop the other using Tacky glue.


Using a sheet of paper to trace the outline of each base bottom so it could get its layer of cardboard

The next step was how to connect the sections together. I planned on attaching a metal base to the bottom of each section and earth magnets to the top of each. The strong magnets would hold the pillar of sections together (hopefully). However, to prevent a gap between the two section equal to the width of the magnet and metal base, I dug out my scrap cardboard. I searched though them until I found one of the same thickness of the metal base and magnet combined. I then took a sheet of paper and placed it on the bottom of each section, rubbing it to get the outline. This was cut out and traced on the cardboard so it would be a good match for each section. I then placed a metal base on each piece of cardboard and cut out a square hole for each to fit inside. These were then affixed to the bottom of each base using white glue, which I used because I hoped it would dry thinner than the Tacky glue and not throw off my measurements of thicknesses (if that makes sense).


The bottom of one section, with its cardboard cap and the square for the metal base cut out and base inserted

After they were dry, I flipped them over and traced the outline of a metal base onto the top of each section. Four earth magnets were attached using two-part epoxy, which I used hoping it would be a stronger bond than white or Tacky glue. In the picture it shows just two magnets. I experimented using just two at first, but there was a slight wobble once the bridge was placed atop the stack of sections. I figured two more magnets would hold it in place more securely. You do have to press the magnets firmly down onto the wood base, as they are light enough to float atop the epoxy. Also, be careful not to place the magnets too close to each other or they will attract and move together. I also felt I would need a heavy bottom base for each pillar of sections. So, I combined a stack of metal and styrene bases which would come together to be the actual bases for the whole assembly. The bottom-most sections would sit atop these bases, which would hopefully be heavy enough to keep it from being knocked over. The beginnings of the metal bases, without earth magnets, are pictured at the top in the first photo.


The top half of one of the sectionals -- what attaches to the cardboard and metal base bottom. I used 4 earth magnets, though two are pictured at this stage.

I'd been looking at the bridge assembly itself -- the topmost section -- and was thinking it needed a little more spicing up. The craft foam ovals were just too bland and not "cliff-like" enough. I decided to find some pine bark pieces that would fit and Tacky glue them to the top level of craft foam. I sorted through the pieces I had left over from my pine bark cliffs, until I found several that were thin enough and roughly the correct shape. I trimmed them up with wire cutters and used generous amounts of Tacky glue to affix them to the top level of craft foam.


A close up of one end of the bridge, with its pine bark sections Tacky glued to the craft foam top. You can also see the skull beads atop each post.

Once that was done, and the metal bases were affixed to the bottom and the magnets atop, it was time for painting. I'd decided to give them a black spray primer coat first. I found some old plastic cups to tape each to so it would be elevated and easier to spray underneath. I sprayed once, let them dry, flipped them upside down, and sprayed again.

The next step would be texturing and flocking the rock surfaces.

Mike Demana

[General]

Great idea!  That saves a lot of time and the end result looks terrific.

[mikedemana]

The rope bridge amidst terrain and loaded up with some of my 28mm Pulp figures.

So, it is done. As I said in the last post on the construction of the rope bridge, I was all but completed. I took the upper assembly and stone sections and added green flock and clump foliage to them. I painted straight white glue onto the brown and sand spots, leaving a little brown visible here and there. I then sprinkled Woodland Scenics Blended Foliage onto it, tapping off the excess.


The completed upper assembly of the bridge, with flocking and clump foliage

Once it was dry, I pulled out my tubs of three different colors of Woodland Scenics clump foliage. I put a big splotch of glue was placed near scattered green grass sections and pressed the foliage into it so it would stick. I didn't put one on every spot where I had green flocking, but placed them here and there so they'd be visible from just about any angle. I used the lighter colored clumps on more open ledges and the darker ones in the shadier, more recessed ones. I am not sure if that works to look more realistic, but it certainly can't hurt!


The stackable stone sections made of craft foam and birch wood. Two are stacked atop each other in this picture, which shows the final step of adding flocking and clump foliage.

Once the foliage was dry, I did my first spray coat of Testors Dullcoate. I let that dry. Then I mixed up a 50/50 batch of white glue and water and painted it over all of the green flocking and clump foliage. I do this to cement it onto the terrain piece, so that I don't have to worry about it shedding flocking and growing threadbare with use. A final spray coat and the rope bridge was complete!


The completed rope bridge and stone sections it sits atop

Would I change anything I did in retrospect? Actually, no. I think the build worked well. The concept of the upper bridge assembly sitting atop the stackable stone sections worked really well. I loaded up the bridge with 28mm figures, and it didn't seem to sag or lean noticeably. Yes, putting the texture on the craft foam and birch wood sections (see "Part 2") was a time-consuming process with lots of steps. If I had a spackling or textured compound that I'd used before and liked, it might have been simply easier to spread it over the pieces instead. However, I haven't really "invented" a process like that, though I've seen many other miniature terrain and model makers that have. My only suggestion to someone who goes that route rather than the black spray paint and textured stone spray would be to make sure your material is black. I started out with black craft foam, sprayed it with black spray paint, and then sprayed it with the textured stone paint. So, I never had to worry about lighter colored recesses showing through. I think it would be a major pain if you coated the stone pieces with a white compound of some sort and then had to find a way to get black in all those recesses!


The rope bridge posed amidst jungle terrain and up against one of my pine bark cliff pieces. I really love the way it turned out!

I think the craft store "picket fence" is a perfect fit for a Pulp rope bridge, too. The wire holding it together is wound around the planks much like a rope would. It is sturdy, wide, and holds 28mm figures well. You can bend the wire to get whatever kind of curve you want in the bridge. I highly recommend it. Others more talented and patient than me may come up with a way to do rope hand rails. Just remember if you do that, those parallel hand rails will make it more difficult to place and move figures along the bridge, too.


A close up showing the skulls atop the bridge posts, and the wooden planking. I think the wire holding the craft store "picket fence" looks very convincing as rope.

It was fun to set up my terrain and take pictures of the rope bridge in action. Of course, since it is an "Indiana Jones" rope bridge, I had to pose Dakota Smith in the middle. Like Indy in the Temple of Doom, he is beset on each side of the bridge by enemies. Bandits out for his scalp advance from one side of the bridge, while the martial artists of the Order of the Fire Coral close in from the other. Will Dakota escape? Well, it is a Pulp game, isn't it...?


In a scene stolen from Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom, Dakota Smith is surrounded by bandits on one side and martial artists from the Order of the Fire Coral on the other. How will our hero escape this predicament? Tune in to Dakota Smith's Oriental Adventures on my blog, below, to see...!

Speaking of my blog, if any of my fellows on this forum would do it the honor of "following" it, I'm sure it would be greatly appreciative! The poor thing looks forgotten and lonely with no followers...

Here's the link to Lead Legionaries: http://leadlegionaries.blogspot.com/

Mike Demana

[BlackSmoke]

I don't think that using genius is being too generous! This is absolutely awesome!

[marianas_gamer]

Turned out great Mike!!
LB

[Mad Lord Snapcase]

That looks absolutely fantastic, great work and thanks for the WIP. 

As is the way of all these brilliant ideas, I have to make one myself now and found 90cms of fence on eBay for £4.99:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271295285259?var=570198048129&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Thanks for the inspiration, just got to build it now!

[d phipps]

Fantastic work, Mike! 

[Chuck1372]

That turned out great.

[DeafNala]

When I first spotted the picket fence at Michael's, the rope bridge idea popped up in my old mind also, but I thought the planks might be too widely spaced. I'm delighted I was wrong. The bridge looks FANTASTIC...VERY WELL DONE!

[General]

I just picked up a picket fence myself.