Preventing warping on thin plasticard?

[Kealios]

I've been making mini dioramas in 6mm, assembling various buildings and the elaborating the yard and surrounding areas with flock, etc.

I have 1.5mm plasticard that I am using in roughly 6 inch squares, but I am getting warping fairly badly.

I am using superglue and Elmer's Wood Glue, which I was led to believe has a lesser water content than PVA.

Other than the obvious solution of going thicker (I dont want the base TOO tall, as it is 1/300 after all!), is there a trick I can get the buildings, walls, and sand textures down without warping? I can try MDF, I guess...1/8" is readily available, though I have no tools to cut it down.

Thanks!
Kealios

[Hupp n at em]

I was told Plasticard doesn't warp too bad, albeit at a much greater thickness as I'm basing 28mm terrain.  I'm curious to see what advice people have on this as well, in case my bases warp in the future.

[Zaheer]

I think it's the woodglue shrinking as it dries (as I think you suspect).

I'm not sure if it's possible to do this in the US, but I would go to the local equivalent of poundland and buy lots of cheap superglue and just use that to stick everything down. I've had no problems with superglue warping anything and I often flood surfaces with it to stick down sand etc.

[grant]

1.5mm plastic card is quite thick, you shouldn't be having warpage. I too suspect the wood glue.

More superglue! Superglue everywhere! On everything!

[Hupp n at em]

I've noticed a very small amount of warpage (negligible really) using PVA, but my corkboard ruined walls definitely flexed a bit when I used wood glue, I think Grant is right!

[Kealios]

So what I'm hearing is no PVA or wood glue on plasticard, but CA/superglue is the way to go...

I think I read that 3M's Super 77 works well. I think the application of sand is my only concern at this point, considering the large surface area involved.

[grant]

What if you used like Golden brand pumice gel instead of sand? Way less mess, awesome to work with.

[tin shed gamer]

I'll add my methods to the mix.
The truth is nothing is going to stop warping on such a thin base(the thickness is roughly 1/1000th of the surface area)
You've hit the curse of smaller scales.How  ever there are a few things you can do to reduce warping.
Reduce the size of the base and turn the whole thing in to a modular system.
In crease the thickness of the base by using a 'false ' edge ,a second or third layer placed further back from the actual base edge(15mm is normally enough)then file/sand the edge of the upper layer into a gentle slope down to the base layer. The important point with layering is to treat plastic like wood.as its production creates a type of grain (its noticable as the flexing in a sheet ie it will bend/flex in one direction )so if you layer it with the flex/grain at 90° to the previous layer you reduce warping as the layers counter the flex in each other.(it won't stop warping only reduce the amount)
Join the layers with liquid plastic glue,I also use this to apply sand to the base as it bonds the sand into the surface of the plastic ,it dries faster than super glue and lasts longer.

The placement of detail (buildings etc) effects warping and can cause additional warping.
Try to look at buildings ,a single point where the base is nailed to the table so warping will.hinge to some extent on that point.
You can counter this by extending walls,and hedges at right angles away from a building/or range of buildings.
This strengthens the board and throws the ankor point further away from the focal points and towards the edge of the board and reduces the areas of thin card that easily warp.(if your using a hedge thats flexible such as the premade flocked ones,or fences then an attitional strip of plastic card as a base for the hedge /fence will help.
And make sure that buildings are glued to there fences ,wall,and hedges as well as the bases as the detailing can and should act as a bracing frame work to counter warping.
Additional lines of super glue covered with sand placed on the base sand also have a some merrit in reducing warping .
Its also worth taking the time to plan how you intend to pickup the base and place it on the table,as the way you handle and store the model can also effect the level of warping.
You'll have to forgive any spelling errors as Im posting from a phone keyboard.
Mark.

[Ray Rivers]

Go with thin aluminum sheet.

[snitcythedog]

So what I'm hearing is no PVA or wood glue on plasticard, but CA/superglue is the way to go...

I think I read that 3M's Super 77 works well. I think the application of sand is my only concern at this point, considering the large surface area involved.

Super 77 might not hold the materials on the surface permanently.  I use it to felt the bottom of my terrain and remains tacky.  You want your surfaces to be handled and super 77 will eventually rub off.  Superglue is the option of choice.  My only other suggestion would be to have a can of compressed air handy to spread the superglue around.  Use it to spread the glue around the surface.  You will use less glue that way and it will also unify the surface with a thin almost plastic coat that will protect the surface of your model.  The dollar store is your best bet to pick up lots of it.  One more thing on the safety side.  Fumes.  They can be a major irritant to both the eyes and throat if you are in an enclosed space.  Be sure to have plenty of ventilation.    Hope that helps.
Snitchy sends.

[Verderer]

I Find Superglue and hot glue (that you use with a glue gun) are the best. Hot glue isn't really good for scatter materials, but for anything else it's great.