DELTADOG`s Tutorial Collection

[DELTADOG]

Hi all

Normally I´m the PostApoc User here on the Board. I´ve made a couple of tutorials in my Blogthread there and some people requested to post these tutorials here in the "How-To" Board seperatly to have better access to them in the future and give the knowlegde to more users not reading the PA Subforum. To avoid to much Double Postings and after a talk with a mod about that, I´ve decided to make this Thread as Collection of the Tutorials I´ve made so far and as Place to bring up new stuff later I can link to in my Blogthread. Be aware that most of the stuff is/will primary PostApoc related, but useable in other projects as well i guess.

Here we go:
Tutorial 01: The Vault-Tec Computer
Method: Resinsculpting / Scratchbuilding / Modelling
Materials: Resin, Plasticcard, ProCreate

Little foreword:There are millions of different Resins out there and they all have different abillities for drytime, Flexibillity and so on. I use different Resins for different Tasks. For this here I use a Resin (PU) from the Company Bacuplast GmbH. Resindust is NOT healthy! Wearing a mask while sanding is obligatory. For Sizecomparison on the pictures. The Grid of my Cuttingmath is 1cm.

Step 0: Referencematerial:



Step 01: (Time 0h:00min)

All starts with a fresh cast of a resinpart. In my case I used a part from a  Hirst Arts mould which had nearby the dimensions I want to have on the computer. Let the cast get cured till it has the consistency of a Pencil Rubber. Now your time is running!!! In my Case with my Resin exact 20min till its totally cured Rockhard.  Demold it and Mark your Basic shape on the Block with a Permanentmaker. After that Take a new X-Acto Knife and cut carefully the basic shape out of the Block. Take extremly care of your fingers. Resin in this stage of curing is a bitch! It changes its consistency from minute to minute and have a non linear behaviour while getting force on it. I`ve cut my hand a several time seriously while learning this method, so be aware!



Step 02: (Time 0h:20min)

I´ve finished the basic shape and now while its hard enough I begin to sand the surfaces with fine Sandpaper and modeling out the round Edges while sanding the part. I`ve glued a bit Plasticcard at the backside to get this backward overlapping rand.



Step 03: (Time 0h:30min)

I cut out the Plasticcardcovers for the frontside and assign the position of the monitor and mark it on the Plasticcard. After cut out the Monitor frame I use a Proxxon Carving tool to dril out the Monitor out of the Resinblock, to get space for the Modelling Putty which forms the Screen.




Step 04: (Time 0h: 40min)

The Screen is modelled in the Frame and the Curved connection between the Keyboard part and the monitor frame. To work forward without killing the fresh made Stuff, I use Icespray to freeze the finished modelled parts from time to time.


Step 05: (Time 0h: 55min)

The Backpart gets a thin cover of Pro Create over the whole surface to make the applicated Parts stick better to the surface. After the Work on the basic shapes, I adding the details in the basecoat layer.



Step 06: (Time 1h: 20 min)

Adding the Details on the frontside while freezing the backpart. For the rivets I´ve made some stamps. That give my the abillity to make reproduceable Rivets which stuck strong on their Surface. Finished Computer.




Conclusion: Its cheap, fast and easy to make. The Resinsculpting is a cool technique to achive fast and well looking machineparts, without that whole plasticcard cutting, sanding, glueing and... not proper fitting! To make such a Part in a 3D printer is would take nearby the same time to make that thing in Sketchup, 3D max etc. PLUS the time for Slicing, Printpathpreparation and the printtime itself. After Printing with a Filamentprinter you have a mess with cleanup the model, to sand down the little strokes etc.
Old School is done in one and a half hour, little additional time for mouldpreparation and then you can start with the reproduction.

Have fune while make your own computer :-)

[DELTADOG]

Tutorial 02: Micro Wood turnery

Material: Dremel or Proxxon Micromot, table mount for it, Some small files in different Shapes, Sandpaper, A Toothpick or BBQ-Sticks

Step01: Turn the stick in the fitting mount of the machine and cut it to length.


Step02: Mark your meassurements on the stick to have a help were to file.


Step03: Use the files to shape the rotating Stick in the Form you wish to have it. Best results are at around 800-1000 rpm


Step04: Use fine sandpaper to polish up the surface to a smooth fine finish. Cut away the remaining wood and let some wood attached to the part to have a easier setup for moulding.


Voila a new Nuka Cola Bottle is finished!

[DELTADOG]

TUTORIAL 03: Paperweathering

Method: Weathering / Aging of Posters, Newspapers etc.
Materials: Laserprinted Poster on standard 80g/m2 Printerpaper, Coffee, Sandpaper grainsize 60, Sandingblock from cork, wooden stick with glued on Sandpaper grainsize 120, tweezers, papertowel

Step 1: Print you poster on standard white paper. A laserprinter is essential for that, inkprinter isn`t useable!



Step 2: Make a very strong coffee. If the coffee would kill you instandly by heartattack, its the right amount of powder. I´m using instand powder for that, but an espresso would do the same job. The advantage of the instantpowder is you can better dose your color. The coffee should be lukewarm.



Step 3: Dip the poster round about 10-20 seconds in the coffee and soak the excess coffee from the surface in a papertowel. After this let it dry. I put my poster under my Warming lamp to fasten it up.




Step 4: The intermediary result! A pergament like sturdy weathered poster.  If you are an even bigger lazy nut than me, your poster is finished and you can stop reading, gratz you have a finished weathered poster!



The more ambitious people would follow me to the next step please!

Step 5: Lay your Grainsize 60 Sandpaper flat on your table with the poster on top and the print downwards. Then press with your cork sanding block the poster on the sandpaper with a good amount of power.



Step 6: Let your poster lay flat on the Sandpaper. Put your sanding Block beneath the Sandpaper to make the underground a bit flexibel (The reason why the Sanding block should be out of cork). Now use a wooden coffeestirrer with onglued 120 Grain Sandpaper, or like in my case an old single use Nail file from a motel. Sand down carefully the paper on the areas you want to weather the poster. Normally the edges are the most damaged parts, but some holes in the middle are great as well.




Step 7: This step depends a bit on the personal taste. I´m dipping the poster now a second time in the coffee. It`s recommended to use a second mix of coffee for this step with less powder in it or thin down the first mix, because the paper is thin and sanded now and will soak more pigments as before. Let it try again. If you want your poster brighter/or sunbleached, don`t dip a second time!

Step 8: The result!




Happy Coffeeparty guys!

[DELTADOG]

TUTORIAL 04: Making Metalcans, Cheap and easy

Material: Scissors, Hammer, Riffled object, thin Metalsheet (from Energy Drink Can f.e.), hole puncher, Round stick, Superglue.

Step01: Cut a Metalstripe, round about 4 - 6mm broad.



Step02: Wrap the Metalstripe around a wooden or metal stick. In my Case I use the Handle of my Minifile. For 28mm Standard, the Diameter should be round about 3mm



Step03: Let overlap the metal a bit and cut of the excess Metal, to have a round tubing. Use the riffled Object (In my case an old Aluminumcap) and carv in some riffles in the metaltube all around. The riffles fixing the tube itself really well, so no clue is needed in this step to hold everything together!



Step04: Cut away excess metal, to have a nice crisp tube with leveled Edges.



Step05: Use a hole puncher 3-4mm diameter and punch out 2 Metaldisks from your Metalsheet. They come out bended, flat them on your cutting mat, otherwise their diameter wouldn`t fit the tubing!




Step06: Clue in the two metaldisks in the open Ends of the Tube. Bring everything a bit in shape. If you want make some bumps in the can.



FINISH. All together it took me not longer then 3 min to make this can and costs nothing.

Greetz Delta

[6milPhil]

  &4£! me those are brill, especially like the poster wear and tear. 

Many thanks.   

[AKULA]

Lovely work and a really useful tutorial - thanks for sharing.

 

[Zaheer]

Wow, great stuff, bookmarked!

[snitcythedog]

Very slick.  Thank you for posting such useful toots.  
Snitchy sends.

[pocoloco]

Most excellent! Many thanks for sharing!

[Gunbird]

See, I told you people would love it. I even bought coffee today. Damn you 

[DELTADOG]

Thx guys^^

I´m curios to see your results Gunbird. But in First recover from your Priuscontact. Don`t want to have the guilty for the pain^^

[DELTADOG]

TUTORIAL 05: Making Grastufts, the Old School way.

At least I saw some YouTube videos about the making of simple grass tufts. There was a lot of technical instructions about devices with negativ ion sources, wireing, Batteryblocks and so on to find.
Maybe to older ladies and gents here can remember the old days without all this rocket science however with comparable results.
I will try to bring one technique to produce those tufts for lowest costs back to daylight.

Materials: PVA glue, Elastic Wallfiller, Acryllic Paint, Old empty Dropperbottle, Transparent Overheadprojector film, Static Gras, Packaging Foamfoil, Paperbox, Tweezers


Step01: Prepare the glue:
Mix the PVA glue, the green and brown paint to a mixture you are satisfied with the colortone. You need only a few drops of the paint to color the whole PVA. After this bring in round about 1/3 of the mass of the PVA-Paintmix, of Elastic Wall Filler in the mix and stir it very well to terminate all the little lumps in there. Fill the finished mix in an old, washed Dropperbottle.

Step02: Cut a part of Foamfoil from an Electronic Packaging that way, it fits in a small Paperbox. Place your static grass on one side of the Foamfoil and let enough room for the transparent film to place.


Step03: Cut a piece of transparent Overheadprojector film to fit the Paperbox. Put it on the Foamfoil and rub it several times over the Foamfoil. Doing this you produce, some static Energy like an Airballoon would do on hair for example.


Step04: Take your Dropperbottle with the Glue/Filler/Paint - Mix and make small drops on the Transparent film. Take care to make them not to big. If the drops become little Lenses on the film, the mixture has the right consistency.


Step05: Take your tweezers and let the static grass fall on the drops from a hight of round about 6-10 cm. Take your time and repeat, till the whole film is covered with grass.



Step06: Let it dry! I´m using fast drying PVA and a warming lamp. The whole drying lasts around 10 min. After it has cured, shake the whole filmsheet to release the excessive static grass.

Step07: Enjoy your new cheap Grasstufts!



Cheers Delta

[Mason]

Some really useful tips and ideas in here.
 

Thank you very much for posting.
 

[Constable Bertrand]

Legend. There are a nice collection of resources here mate.

Cheers
Matt.