Pin wash question?

[cram]

Hi, I need a bit of advice on pin washing.

Would using oil paint give me a better result than an acrylic wash? I have done a practice pin wash on a piece of sprue using Vallejo washes, but was not happy with the result. I pin washed some raised lettering on the sprue, and found the wash didn't stick closely to the lettering but rather spread out a bit, end result looked a bit messy. I have read that this can be cleaned up using airbrush cleaner, but the clean up process is hard work. With oil paint the paint flows better and the clean up process with turpentine is pretty easy I'm told?

I glossed the sprue with Daler Rowney Soluble varnish before pin washing.

I would rather not use enamel.

Thanks.

[Captain Blood]

What's a pin wash?

[cram]

Washing a model such as a tank. But you only apply the wash to the areas you want effected, such as bolts, nooks and crannies ect, as opposed to washing over the whole model.

[Major_Gilbear]

Pin wash, as in "pin-point wash".

So basically, a wash that's only applied around rivets or to very specific areas.

@ Cram:

I think you need a flow release agent more than you need to fuss over oil vs acrylic paint.

If you use an acrylic wash, and add a few drops of flow release (there are lots that people use... may be worth reading up on a few), that ought to solve your problems.

[cram]

Ok thanks, I will give a flow release a go.

One thing that got me wondering about the oils though, was if you diluted them with turpentine and cleaned up with turpentine, wouldn't you erode the gloss varnish you are working over, especially soluble varnish?

[Major_Gilbear]

I would be inclined to say "yes", but I don't work much with oils and could therefore be wrong.

I suspect that as the wash is only being applied/dabbed at locally, you can do the work you need to before the layers underneath come up.

Also, I guess it depends on the formulation of the paints and sealers; for example, acrylics are thinned and cleaned with water, but don't reactivate after they are dry.

[Koekie]

Try a drop (just a drop...) of detergent in your water.
It changes the surface tension of the liquid and makes it run easier.

My 2 cents

[cram]

I called around a friends house earlier, he's an artist, so I was able to borrow some flow release and some oil paints off him.

I still found I wasn't getting a result I was happy with using the acrylic washes, even using the flow release.

So I had a go with the oils, and I was very pleased with the way they flowed and settled into the areas I wanted them too. I'm very glad to say that there was no negative effect of the turps (I'd used to dilute the oils) on the gloss coating. Cleaning up the pin wash using turps after was also ok. Perhaps it was because only a small amount of turps was being used, that it didn't effect the gloss coat to a noticeable level.

[Major_Gilbear]

Acrylic flow release takes getting used to...

But I'm very pleased the oils worked so well for you, and with no adverse effects! 

[Mr. Peabody]

I always use oils over a good acrylic varnish. Gloss for pin-washes and satin or even matte for filters and weathering.

White spirit won't attack a well applied acrylic varnish.

For gloss at the early pin-wash stage I'll use Future/Klear and for the satin, I use Vallejo. Both applied by airbrush, but careful brush application will also work just fine.

[Connectamabob]

I've done wet blending of enamels with turp over Future before with no ill effects. If it's fully cured, acrylic either takes a fairly hot solvent (like lacquer thinner) or a proper soak period in order to dissolve.