Painting Viking Shields- Help Request

[Easy E]

I am wrapping up a Roman project, and have started putting together a Viking force for my next project.  I expect in about 2 months, I will have to start painting Viking shields.  I am unsure how to do this.

They are clearly bi-sected or divided into further segments but with two or more colors on them.  What is the best way to get this effect, without using transfers?

Pictures or a tutorial would be really helpful! Thanks.

[Atheling]

I put together an Step by Step article on my blog on painting Dark Ages shields that you might find useful:

http://justaddwater-bedford.blogspot.com/2020/12/painting-shields-step-by-stephow-to.html

You can be as fancy as you like or not really.

Here are some hand painted examples:

[Andrew_McGuire]

Mine are nowhere as good as the above, and still won’t be when they’re finished, but the images do show a basic technique involving masking tape, which can be used for the segmented patterns you allude to rather than freehand images of beasts, which for many of us are not a realistic option (though don’t let me discourage you from trying).

[has.been]

I find it best to (using a pencil) mark dots around the rim.
As if I was marking out a clock face.
Start at 12:00, then 6:00.
Next 9:00 & 3:00.
Then half way between each of the dots.
This gives guidance for crosses, sections or swirls.
If you are not happy joining them 'freehand' then
place a thin bit of card between the points & draw
the line with the pencil.
If you are not happy about your skill with a paint brush,
use gel pens. If you've painted the shield a light colour
they will give you good control over the colouring in.
Gel gold & silver are also useful, for rims & decoration.

[Atheling]

I find it best to (using a pencil) mark dots around the rim.

I've tried using a pencil, or a marker, I can't remember but I found that just it is easier to just use a brush for "pencilling in" the basic design.

It's horses for courses though, whatever works for you is simply the best for you to go about it. Experiment a bit on models you don't care too much about?

Might I suggest that you don't glue the shields to the models until you have completed the designs, or the whole shield then at least to start with, you will be working on a flat surface. Then when you're more confident, move onto gluing the shields onto the models and carrying on that way?

Failing that, try out my shield painting step by step in mt post above 

[Easy E]

Thanks guys.  No free hand animals for me! 

However, this was helpful. 

[mellis1644]

The above are really good painters but if you keep it fairly simple you can get great results without being an expert. Keep to two strongly different colours and some simple patterns and it will work out perfectly. I even do some unpainted (just wood effect) for my figs. I'm not an expert painter but see below IMO it looks ok:



As suggested it does help to have the shields not attached.

I have enough others on my blog (https://mellis1644.wordpress.com/) where you can see I just try to 'go it' and they seems to look ok.

[Easy E]

Thankfully, all the shields are on the sprue still even is the models are assembled and undercoated.

[Cerdic]

There is some evidence to suggest that it was very common for shields to be painted in just one colour. So if you want an easier life you could do most of your 'ordinary' blokes like that, and use fancy designs for leaders and other important nobs.

Regarding shield rims...probably the great majority were edged in rawhide, not metal. The rawhide would be soaked in water to make it pliable, then tacked or sewn to the shield. As it dries, it contracts slightly, adding structural rigidity to the shield. Rawhide also absorbs blows well; it doesn't dent or deform like metal would.

[Easy E]

Good plan.  I think most blokes will only get two colors max, with the leaders maybe getting some designs.

.....Or I could just buck up an buy some transfers!

[Wilgut Spleens]

.....Or I could just buck up an buy some transfers!

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
Be not like the others, be like us the , freehanders! Just keep practicing. you will get there!

[Harry Faversham]

I've had a cogitate about shield transfers, and come to the startling conclusion...

we've fell for the egg under the hat trick!

Do we really believe that every hairy bothered Viking who painted a shield, was an artist worthy of a 'shield painter's exhibition', in the Tate modern?

[Atheling]

I've had a cogitate about shield transfers, and come to the startling conclusion...

we've fell for the egg under the hat trick!

Do we really believe that every hairy bothered Viking who painted a shield, was an artist worthy of a 'shield painter's exhibition', in the Tate modern?

They had one in Bayeux 

[has.been]

They had one in Bayeux 

That, 'Bayeux tapestry'  Wasn't made in Bayeux, but by English females,
& was an embroidery not a tapestry.

On a similar 'thread' years ago, when our club started doing Wars of the
Roses, one of my mates painted his Warwick standard authentically,
i.e. just as an 'artist' at the time would have done. His Bear & ragged
staff was unfortunately quickly renamed, 'Gerbil & twig'.
Wargamers like pretty more than authentic.

[Atheling]

That, 'Bayeux tapestry'  Wasn't made in Bayeux, but by English females,
& was an embroidery not a tapestry.

Very true. I wrote my first year end of term mini thesis on the very subject at Uni. Much to the chagrin of my Art History lecturers (I might have mentioned Picasso)! 

On a similar 'thread' years ago, when our club started doing Wars of the
Roses, one of my mates painted his Warwick standard authentically,
i.e. just as an 'artist' at the time would have done. His Bear & ragged
staff was unfortunately quickly renamed, 'Gerbil & twig'.
Wargamers like pretty more than authentic.

Again, I quite agree. Thing is, we pays for our toys and we like to paint them up as we like. The idea of a uniform beyond a livery jacket or sash in the Late Middle Ages, except on very are occasions, is a misnomer.