Isandlwana - Laundry Day - 2nd Rinse

[Sir Barnaby Hammond-Rye]

D-Day minus 6

A series of Blog Posts chronicling "the Build":

Some research featuring Google Maps:

https://lohwand.blogspot.com/2021/09/the-battle-of-isandlwana-some.html



Building the Mountain: the Upper Storeys:

https://lohwand.blogspot.com/2021/09/isandlwana-takes-shape.html



The Lower Storeys:

https://lohwand.blogspot.com/2021/09/isandlwana-lower-storeys.html





amaTutshane kopje:

[Red Sveta]

This is a really interesting project I look forwards to seeing more as it develops. What scale miniatures are you going to use?

[Sir Barnaby Hammond-Rye]

Peter Dennis' Paperboys, which are around 28mm, give-or-take.

https://peterspaperboys.com/collections/anglo-zulu-war-1879

The only way to do 12,000-15,000 Zulus on the cheap!   

[Sir Barnaby Hammond-Rye]

D-Day has been postponed to some unknown future date. No matter. Construction continues apace...

The Camp takes shape:

https://lohwand.blogspot.com/2021/09/isandlwana-camp-takes-shape.html



Bell Tent's available on Peter Dennis' Paper Boys site.

[JBaumal]

Wow, great stuff! I love how you are staying with paper products for the terrain as well as the minis.

[Ranthony]

I'm looking forward to seeing this come to fruition, it's lovely to see someone take on a project like this with paper/card.

You've made a good start and have lent me some inspiration.
If only I had the space, this would be on my to do list.

Keep it up!

Cheers

Ry

[Sir Barnaby Hammond-Rye]

Todays update is just a few pictures taken over the last week or so.

https://lohwand.blogspot.com/2021/10/isandlwana-small-update.html







The amaTutshane kopje has been a bit of a bother. First, I made it too large relative to my version of Isandlwana, and had to cut it down. Then it started to give me a slight problem with warping. That was my fault because I made the base out of two thin layers of cardboard. And not the stiffest cardboard either; for Isandlwana I used good, sturdy cardboard - some Amazon Prime boxes are heavy duty - and I alternated the way the grain went each layer, so one went lengthwise, the next across, and some even went diagonally. No warping there! 

(Knock on wood!) 

[Sir Barnaby Hammond-Rye]

I decided to do an inventory.



Shown are approx 1800 Zulus and an uncounted number of Imperial Forces. At 1:10 ratio that is more Zulus than I actually need as not all were engaged, and there won't be room for the entire right horn anyway. What is more important, however, is the proper proportion of shield colours. I'm still trying to sort that out. The colours are: Black, Black and White, White, Red, Red and White. Some regiments, like umCijo, need to be all black, but others can have a mix, or so I gather from my research.

Regarding the British, my intent was to provide different bases for different formations and "States". So, extended order vs close order, etc. The "States" would be come into play when a section is broken up by contact with the Zulus, and are intended to show ever greater fragmentation and disorder. So, basically I need multiple bases for each company to show all of that. For the cavalry there are mounted and dismounted versions (including horse holders.)

https://lohwand.blogspot.com/2021/10/isandlwana-not-limited-by-counter-mix.html

Also, I've been working on the amaTutshane kopje. I finally finished the paper mache and have started painting:



"The Pudding"



Awaiting flocking...

[fred]

Those first zulus are looking good. How long does it take to cut out the figures?

I’ve been put of by the effort of cutting out these paper figures - as it feels high compared to painting some 3D figures? I have made 2D paper counters in the past and that was super fast - 1 evening to to the computer work, 1 evening to do the cutting and gluing to get two full armies.

[Sir Barnaby Hammond-Rye]

It actually doesn't take that long to cut a strip once you get the hang of it. I don't do it the way Peter does...in his video he starts at one end and slowly but steadily cuts all the way around. I cut in bits and pieces. That is to say, I might start up the right side, but where there is a sharp undercut where the shield is shown over the body I might go as far as where they touch and then start at the bottom of the shield and cut back up to where they meet. Peter seems to just rotate the strip and keep cutting. I also try and cut the left hand sides (remember: you must always cut from the front facing of the strip) at least partly, or mostly, before finishing the figure. This is because if you can end up with very little to hold onto once the figure is cut off the strip. Note that the Zulus are small groups of three with some separates on a strip. The strips come in groupings of 3, 4, 5 or 6 depending on the design sheet, but the strip of 6 is not 6 figures all connected but clumps and singles. (You can see from the pics.) So I cut around in bits and pieces. I go back and do undercuts like underarms or fiddly bits after the main figure is cut out. You might find a better way but this seems to be working for me. For rifles I do one side and then the other pretty early on so they are not folded about a lot by the cutting process.

The slow part for me has been determining if the paper I have is heavy enough. I ended up going  with a two stage process: I print on the thickish paper I bought (but maybe not as thick as Peter uses) then I laminate it with a sheet of light card, parchment paper. This seems to be working really well.

[Sir Barnaby Hammond-Rye]

New Blog Post:

https://lohwand.blogspot.com/2021/10/isandlwana-impi-takes-shape.html


Here are a few shots of the "Impi Construction Process"....



Becomes...



Which eventually will become...



I still need to flock the bases and add tufts. I might have made a mistake in not cutting out between the legs. I am undecided whether I should or not. I think maybe I'll try doing that with a few bases and then compare the results.

Each base is 100 meters diameter and represents about 100 Zulus.

My basing is inspired by the "Escape From Colditz" game. The last picture above might give you an idea how that's going to work. When the Zulus move I will add a certain number of bases to the front. This number will be determined by the volume of fire directed at them by the British.

There are going to be four Shooting results:

1) No Effect;

2) Disperse. Remove a certain number of Zulu bases from the front and put down a single casualty marker.;

3) Suppress. Remove a certain number of Zulu bases from the front and replace with prone Zulu markers. To move in the direction of fire that regiment must first be motivated to stand up. This will be done by either a die roll, or by sending an Induna to inspire the warriors. Each of the two horns and the center will have a certain number of Induna figures which function as a sort of  "Activation Points". If the regiment stands the prone bases must first be replaced by normal bases and then bases may be added to the front to move forwards.

4) Kill. Remove a certain number of Zulu bases from the front and place three casualty markers.  These bases are removed from the game and are no longer available for movement.

If a Zulu base contacts and Imperial base then melee occurs. If a base comes within a very short distance (about 4") then they may hurl Assegai at the British.

There will also be the chance of random musket casualties among the Imperial forces for each area of the camp. Historically, one of the Quartermasters was killed by such a random shot, being shot in the head as he assisted in distributing the ammunition.

[Sir Barnaby Hammond-Rye]

So, the Mod Podge Mache continues. I've got about three coats on I reckon, or close to it. I'm using Mod Podge - the "water-based glue, sealer and finish" by PLAID - instead of traditional paper mache. It seems to work fine, despite the "4 week cure time" mentioned on the tub. I just started my second 32 fl ox (946 ml) tub last night. So, between the amaTushane kopje, a few Zulu bases and this, that is how much paper mache I've done. The latest work has been to go around the edge and cover the base cardboard. I don't think I'm going to do underneath, though it might make it stronger if I did. (hmm...)

I've also been scrutinizing what photos I can find of Isandlwana before I tackle the upper bit; I didn't want to just go from a "mind's eye" impression. Unfortunately the period photos all seem to be from the same angle, or close to it. I'll just have to keep in mind that the more detailed modern photos reflect 140 years or so of wind and rain erosion.

The plan is to cut the upper part down, both with vertical crevasses and possibly to shave a bit off the bulk. When I built it up I just sort of "winged it" and I might have over did it slightly. I'm away on the weekend so I'm not going to get back to it until late next week, but at least it'll be well dried by then.

https://lohwand.blogspot.com/2021/10/isandlwana-mod-podge-mountain.html

[PaulRPetri]

Your postsare very insprational. In fact once I saw how you approached to making the Isandlwana hill it gave me enough courage to try one myself. If I can figure out how to post pictures I will put some up. However my real purpose in replying is to give you four YouTube links to an excellent presentation on the battle. The presenter uses Drone footage that clearly shows the top of the mountain and all of it's sides. The presentation is the best I have ever seen on the battle.
 



I hope they help you as much they did me.
All the best.
Paul

[Ranthony]

Your postsare very insprational. In fact once I saw how you approached to making the Isandlwana hill it gave me enough courage to try one myself. If I can figure out how to post pictures I will put some up. However my real purpose in replying is to give you four YouTube links to an excellent presentation on the battle. The presenter uses Drone footage that clearly shows the top of the mountain and all of it's sides. The presentation is the best I have ever seen on the battle.
 



I hope they help you as much they did me.
All the best.
Paul

Great links from a great storyteller.

I'll add this from a more recent videographer....



Some amazing material out there.

He does have a series where he walks you through the battle, as it happened.

Cheers

Ry

[Sir Barnaby Hammond-Rye]

Thanks guys - both for the encouragement and the links!

I have seen both those series but have only watched one episode with full sound on - I normally surf with "noises off" otherwise I tend to get complaints. Hmmm, earphones... (maybe someday!)

I've watched most of them "noises off", as I say, plus a few others that show other parts of the countryside. Before I get to work on the "Upper Stories" I'm going to give them a good going over so I know exactly what it looks like. Keeping in mind it is now more eroded than it was - it looks to me like the north east end of the topmost bit has collapsed more than it was in 1879.

I've also decided to move Isandlwana slightly more to the east on my battlefield so that I can get in a portion of the western side of the Nek and the start of the Fugitive's route.