Suggestions for One Inch Round Bases?

[ignis-fatuus]

This sounds like a silly question I suppose, but I was wondering if any of you have any preferred round bases you use or have switched to for the sake of standardization between various model manufactures. I'm in the process of striping a number of older metal miniatures and many of them are missing their supplied bases. While I have a seemingly inexhaustible supply of round GW bases, I was wondering if I could do better. I have my sights set on some interesting skirmish games--Fear of the Dark, etc.--and I'd like to try to establish a standard base size/look before I get too far into painting. I know there are many options out there and I certainly expect to read replies of "just use what you have lying around." With that said, I look forward to seeing any suggestion you might offer up to someone only just returning to the hobby.

[Cory]

I use 1" fender washers. Cheap, locally available every day, and they add a bit of weight that is helpful with some plastic figures.

[Citizen Sade]

How do you feel about clear/transparent bases? They are available commercially or you can make your own with blister plastic and a hobby punch. Any slotta tabs would have to go, of course.

[ignis-fatuus]

I use 1" fender washers. Cheap, locally available every day, and they add a bit of weight that is helpful with some plastic figures.

That's not a bad idea. I wonder if one could insert a magnet into the hole of the washer. I've been considering magnetizing some of my miniatures for transportation etc.. The fact that they can be locally sourced is certainly a plus.

[ignis-fatuus]

How do you feel about clear/transparent bases? They are available commercially or you can make your own with blister plastic and a hobby punch. Any slotta tabs would have to go, of course.

I haven't ever really considered plastic/transparency bases. I imagine you'd have to be careful with your glue selection to make sure you don't fog up the base when adhering the model.

[Cory]

That's not a bad idea. I wonder if one could insert a magnet into the hole of the washer. I've been considering magnetizing some of my miniatures for transportation etc.. The fact that they can be locally sourced is certainly a plus.

Easier to use sheet magnet in your carrying tray.  Many folks do and it works well most of the time.

[Cubs]

I use a 2p coin (assuming you're UK, they're a whisker over an inch), I don't think you can get anything cheaper. Your magnetic strip will work too, since they're mostly steel these days.

[fred]

I use a 2p coin (assuming you're UK, they're a whisker over an inch), I don't think you can get anything cheaper. Your magnetic strip will work too, since they're mostly steel these days.

This. Cheap, weighty, magnetic.

I sometimes use 25mm MDF bases, 2mm thick for smaller lighter figures (eg Epic) as I worry that metal bases might damage such small figures.

[Westfalia Chris]

This. Cheap, weighty, magnetic. (...)

Do note, though, that 2p coins minted before (IIRC) 1992 do not contain steel and are therefore not attracted to magnets, as I found out to my chagrin when I tried to fixate previously-based figures using magnets.

[fred]

Very true - they actually used to be copper - the newer ones do look a bit different, and of course are magnetic


(Typo corrected)

[Cubs]

No ... just to be clear, the newer ones ARE magnetic, because they are mostly steel.

[Citizen Sade]

I imagine you'd have to be careful with your glue selection to make sure you don't fog up the base when adhering the model.

True. Be very sparing with the glue or try one of the non-fogging ones.

Pulp Alley’s Dave did some tutorials that are well worth a look if you’re considering clear bases: LINK

[ignis-fatuus]

Well, I stopped by the hardware store and picked up a small box of fender washers. I'll test them out this weekend and see how I like them. I do like how they leave a low profile and can effectively lower the height of the overall miniature. Hopefully no one will cry fowl and make a fuss about having an advantage over those using normal raised bases. The extra weight at the bottom will certainly come in hand--perhaps even more so with plastic and resin models as it will significantly shift the center of gravity to the bottom.

For those using fender washers, do you bother to prime the bottom of the base or do you just leave it bare metal? I feel it would look a little more tidy to have a completely black base (or sides and bottom), but then there will be issues of wear and tare down the road.

[Westfalia Chris]

Well, I stopped by the hardware store and picked up a small box of fender washers. I'll test them out this weekend and see how I like them. I do like how they leave a low profile and can effectively lower the height of the overall miniature. Hopefully no one will cry fowl and make a fuss about having an advantage over those using normal raised bases. The extra weight at the bottom will certainly come in hand--perhaps even more so with plastic and resin models as it will significantly shift the center of gravity to the bottom.

I have based all my historical (and more-historical-than-fictional) projects on washers and/or 1p and 2p coins, using sizes from 20 to 40mm round to best accommodate the individual figures (with the odd 50 and 60mm base for weapon teams etc). I kept my Sci-Fi and Fantasy stuff on plastic bases since the necessary effort of rebasing would have exceeded the aesthetic benefit (i.e. I already had too many and wanted to keep cross-project usability, also, some test balloons where I tried flat washers for Sci-Fi I wasn't happy with in the end).

Since the usual washer is 1-2mm thick as compared to the usual slottas' 3mm, I don't think there should be any actual benefit of flatter bases, and if there was, I'd take a real hard look at what shenanigans the rules in question are trying to pull.

For those using fender washers, do you bother to prime the bottom of the base or do you just leave it bare metal? I feel it would look a little more tidy to have a completely black base (or sides and bottom), but then there will be issues of wear and tare down the road.

IMHO, ALWAYS prime and paint the base rims. Nothing worse than unfinished base rims in my book, as it makes the figures look haphazard, unfinished and lazy. I've found that with a good primer, several medium-strength coats of paint and maybe some varnish on top, retouching, although ultimately necessary, can be kept to a minimum.

I attach the bases before painting and therefore prime them along with the figures.

[Cubs]

A couple of extra layers of brush-on varnish round the edges and a little underneath is a good idea too (I sit mine on top of smaller coins to dry) because the paint has a tendency to wear off over time. Or you could just keep re-touching.