Fantasy stuff in 28mm, mostly for KoW

[Neldoreth]

Those snails look great, the trails are especially gross! Nice work 

[Freddy]

Those snails look great, the trails are especially gross! Nice work 

Thank you! The trails are made with a glue gun, but I basecoated then painted it with oils too.

[Freddy]

Necromancer and his girlfriend. Scibor figures, painted with oils, that is when I decided to make them a pair. Guess they hooked up in the undead army office party. ("Lets crack open a cold one!").

[Neldoreth]

They look pretty creepy and sinister, the oils worked pretty well to bring out their character.

[Little Odo]

They look pretty creepy and sinister, the oils worked pretty well to bring out their character.

Agreed - they do look suitably sinister to be creeping around dingy mausolea resurrecting unsuspecting cadavers

[mikedemana]

Guess they hooked up in the undead army office party. ("Lets crack open a cold one!").

 

Mike Demana

[Spinal Tap]

I continue to be impressed by your work.

[Freddy]

Thank you, guys! Scibor models are characteristic and easy to paint, but sometimes have casting errors.

[sir_shvantselot]

Thank you, guys! Scibor models are characteristic and easy to paint, but sometimes have casting errors.

Mine have always been OK the bigger they are. My only issue with them is there is so much flash on the human sized stuff. But gorgeous sculpts.

[Frugalmax]

Nice work! Do you think they planned on matching outfits or did they just see each other across the graveyard and realize they shared the same taste (or tailor)?

[Freddy]

Mine have always been OK the bigger they are. My only issue with them is there is so much flash on the human sized stuff. But gorgeous sculpts.

There were no big errors, on some of them the two halves of the negative did not match around the lower parts. I would not mind on a  cheaper model, but in Scibors price category I expect flawless casting.

Do you think they planned on matching outfits or did they just see each other across the graveyard and realize they shared the same taste (or tailor)?

If you look at my other armies, might notice that most of them have a coherent colour scheme- the undead are one of the rare exemptions. The military green+sand combo is usually for Chaos, but most of my zombies also wear this because in 40k they serve in the Chaos army.
Now the two lovebirds discovered together that desecrating coffins is not just a great way to make new friends, but also a great way to fill ones gardrobe. Vampires, as it is known, like fancy dresses, but only care about each other, so there is no dress code for the middle management and the rank and file. But even their patience has limits, after the infamous Naked Zombie Regiment Scandal ("not only the guts are dangling here!") the larcenous duo had to give up their second hand clothes side business and, as a punishment, they have to wear their collection until the last piece of "recycled" clothes is got torn into rags. So they are stuck in sand+green for a while, the Naked Zombie Regiment is, well, a  regiment...

[Frugalmax]

Ha! Those shameless zombies! I applaud their rejection of the norms imposed upon them by the necromantic oppressors!

[SpaceArmada]

Freddy, loving your very fun and creative army building.
Just read the whole thread- love the undead and Rackham baddies.

What artists oils do you use for the bronze? And what for the steel? If you don’t mind sharing 🙂

[Freddy]

Freddy, loving your very fun and creative army building.
Just read the whole thread- love the undead and Rackham baddies.

What artists oils do you use for the bronze? And what for the steel? If you don’t mind sharing 🙂

Thank you!

Usually for the metals I use acrylics (GW, mostly, but I also like Silver from Revell), I only use oils for the weathering of the steel (various browns, even orange)
With the oils I only paint the NMM, which I only use on the Dirz figures. There is still room for experimenting, but generally:

The grey metals
-starts with a black wash (oil wash)
-grey drybrush- the grey I simply mix from black and white, sometimes a little Payne Gray, that pulls it towards blue. The drybrush here is a drybrush-y technique with nothing actually dry: the paint still wet, but not flowingly wet. With some practice the easiest way to paint nice colour transitions without the 100 layers of homeopatically diluted paint folks use for acryls
-and then white oil-drybrushes (see above) until I am pleased with the result. Sometimes I even wait to dry and add a final acrylic white (acrylics have a better coverage) on the very edges.
-rust, as I would do with the normal metals

The gold:
-starts with a dark brown, usually Burnt Umber oil wash
-oil-drybrush with Yellow Ochre, see above
-white, the same way.

There is a lot to experiment here with all the shades and little shade modifications, these are the basics, I am still at the entrance of the rabbit hole

I use Pannon Color, Winton Colour, Talens and Louvre oils, in the oil paint artist subculture the names of the colours and the palette itself is basically unchanged since the medieval times, so in 98% they all offer the same stuff, with some later inventions like ready-mixed skin tone. For the remaining 2%, I prefer the skin tone and the Prussian Blue from Pannon Color above the others (the skin tone is more pinkish, a little less pale, the Prussian Blue is really vibrant when diluted, great for painting plasma weapons and blue ink handwriting), and the Olive Green from Talens is just the right shade for ww2 Hungarian uniforms.

One last thing to consider is that oils in general have a bad coverage when used in the moderate layers needed for modeling (impasto technique just does not cut for 28mm ), but oil paint manufacturers usually have a marking system for opaqueness, check it and choose the paint accordingly.

[Freddy]

Molerats. I sculpted them for the 1/35 postapo project, but their bases are changeable (magnetized), for 28mm I use cavalry bases, they make a nice Skaven unit.