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Author Topic: Tank review (1914 - 1919) What is available on the market.  (Read 4445 times)

Offline Armstrong

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Re: Tank review (1914 - 1919) What is available on the market.
« Reply #15 on: February 16, 2023, 02:46:51 PM »
Below are the camouflage schemes for the Mark 1 (from Black Lion Decals website)

Die Waffenkamer do a great male and female model of it. See pictures below.

Black Lion decals do 1/72 and 1/35 transfers for WW1 tanks but will scale up or down if you ask them, for very reasonable cost.

They also have painting guides on their website.

Oh. I have done this model already in a Salomon paint sheme that refers to the Mark I in Bovington.
I will soon upload it here.

Offline Armstrong

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Re: Tank review (1914 - 1919) What is available on the market.
« Reply #16 on: February 21, 2023, 03:59:20 PM »
LK II from Brigade Games Miniatures



Brief history:
The LK II (leichter Kampfwagen II = light fighting vehicle II) was a further development of the German army of the 1st World War. Impressed by the success of the French Renault tank (later named FT-17) and disappointed by the performance of the A7V, it was decided to produce a small and light armored vehicle, which should be characterized by its speed.
After the first design (LK I) was rejected because of the too thin armor and other deficiencies, the LK II was developed. There was to be a male version (with a gun in a casemate) and a female version (with a machine gun in a rotating turret). The first tanks had already been built and were about to enter service when the war ended.
Since, according to the Treaty of Versailles, Germany was not allowed to own any tanks in the future, the ones already built were renamed "Großtraktoren" = "great tractors") and sold to Sweden and Hungary.

While the Hungarians shipped their tanks in pieces for a long time around the country (to hide them from the Allied Control Commission), the Swedes were able to use them openly for several years. After the Hungarians were finally able to assemble their tanks as well, they ended up missing so many individual parts due to the constant shipping that they were only able to reassemble a portion of the tanks.

By the way, the model from Empress shows the LK II in the original version. The Swedish tanks later had circular flaps in the front plate behind which headlights were hidden.




The model (from Brigade Games Miniatures)

Content
1 x mainhull (resin)
2 x track drive sections (resin)
1 x machine gun - original version (pewter)
1 x machine gun - Swedish update from 1928 (pewter)
1 x trailer hitch (pewter)
No decals!
No instructions!

Dimensions (scale):
At the moment I do not have any drawings of the LK II.
Apparently the dimensions seem to be correct for the 28mm scale (1/56).
As soon as I have more material available, I will submit the evaluation.

Detailing:
The model features fairly good detailing with raised rivets and flaps. The actual features of the original have been well represented. However, there is a rectangular cutout on the right side of the engine cover. I could not find this in the pictures of the original vehicles. It looks like the designer forgot or left out the cover slats towards the engine compartment here.



The machine guns themselves are kept very simple. However, they are sufficient for a tabletop model.
The surfaces of the tracks are also kept somewhat simple, but serve their purpose.
The turret sits only loosely in a flat turntable. It is best to drill a hole in the hull and turret and insert small magnets there to provide a secure hold so as not to lose the turret during transport if necessary.

Casting quality:
The casting quality is good. The surface details are cleanly cast and there were no warps or casting edges. However, the model had slight bubbling on some rivets (i.e., during the casting process, a bubble forms directly behind a rivet and when the mold is removed, the rivet breaks off and exposes the cavity underneath).



Accuracy of fit:
There are mounts on the fuselage for the two track segments onto which the undercarriage segments are glued. There are ledges on the inside of the running gear that correspond directly to the length of the mounts on the fuselage. The metal parts (machine gun and trailer hitch) can also be easily attached to the fuselage.



Material (quality):
The resin is a relatively light material and quite sturdy.  The pewter parts are solid and thick and also forgive the one or other "rough" handling.

Decals:
There are no decals included with this kit. However, to build a generic vehicle you do not need them. The original Imperial Army vehicle was probably a gray or "field gray" monotone paint job without any nationality insignia or lettering (the type was still being tested, after all). In the service of the Swedes, the vehicles were monochrome or had a more color paint scheme. Markings or sovereignty insignia were apparently not used here either. (There are numerous pictures of still existing vehicles on the internet).



Assembly instructions:
The "kit" consists of very few components and doesn't really need instructions. The only problem for me were the two machine guns. Only after longer research it became clear that one is for the original vehicle version and the second for the modified Stridsvagn of the Swedes.

Price:
I paid £16.00 for my model. This is an acceptable price for such a small resin model. Problem is that as a EU customer you still have to pay transport and possibly customs. So of course these factors increase the actual price.



Further notes:
Two-component glue or better superglue is needed for assembly.
To correct bent/warped resin parts, it is recommended to immerse the affected parts in a bowl of hot water for a few seconds and then carefully bend them back into the correct shape. This can be repeated as needed.
You should also have a tinker's knife for deburring and some sandpaper for sanding off any unevenness.
CAUTION: Please sand only outdoors or over an exhaust system! Resin dust is highly harmful to health and is most likely carcinogenic!

Dimensions:
Height: 4.5 cm
Width: 3.5 cm
Length: 9.5 cm



Summary Rating:
Dimensions (scale):   - will be added later -
Detailing: satisfying plus
Casting quality: good
Accuracy of fit: good
Material (quality): good
Decals: - not available-
instructions: - not available
Price: good

Conclusion:
All in all the LK II is a nice model which shows the characteristics of this vehicle perfect. On top it is a very exotic topic of a tank that was never taking action in the German imperial army and only saw service in the Swedish and Hungarian army. The kit is perfect for “what if” battles and is a nice addition to every Great War collection. The only disadvantage is the missing detail of the engine cover on the right side of the vehicle.

Offline Metternich

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Re: Tank review (1914 - 1919) What is available on the market.
« Reply #17 on: February 27, 2023, 05:08:21 PM »
The LKII should be very useful for those wanting to game "what if" scenarios, i.e. if the War had continued on into 1919/20 (by which time the Americans would have been well-armed with BARs, and SMGs would have been more widely available).

Offline Armstrong

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Re: Tank review (1914 - 1919) What is available on the market.
« Reply #18 on: March 19, 2023, 12:00:30 AM »
Garford-Putilov from Empress Miniatures



Brief history:
The Garford-Putilov was an armored car developed and mass-produced by Russia during World War I, based on the chassis of a truck imported from the United States.

The result was a vehicle that was armored and equipped with a 76mm cannon and three Maxim MGs. The engine was hopelessly underpowered with this extra weight and only managed to accelerate the vehicle to a top speed of 18 - 19 km/h (11 - 12 mph). In addition, the superstructure had a high center of gravity, which resulted in the Garford-Putilov having no off-road capability.
Although the mounted gun had a swivel angle of 270 degrees, it could not act in the forward direction of the lorry, and the two MG casemates mounted on the sides were also unable to cover the area directly in front of the vehicle.
Advantages of the vehicle were its sturdiness, relatively strong armament for an armored car of that time and technical reliability.
To use the gun effectively against enemy forces, it was essential that the vehicle could travel at a high speed in reverse. For this reason, the gears could be "shifted", turning all four forward gears into reverse gears, allowing the vehicle to travel at the same speed in both directions.
The crew consisted of 8-9 men, with only the positions of commander and driver being specified.
A total of 48 vehicles were built, 5 of which were probably captured by German troops during the war and thus used to put down the January uprisings in Berlin in 1919.

Small anecdote at the end:
During the fighting in the east in 1919 against the Lithuanian army, a Garford- Putilov was captured by a German officer of the Iron Division (a Freikorps division serving Russia). The soldier stormed the slowly retreating vehicle (max. 19 km/h) and shot the commander and driver through the viewing hatches. The truck then drove driverless into a ditch and the rest of the crew surrendered.


This example shows the weaknesses of the armored car (low top speed, no all-around protection with MGs).

The kit (from Empress)

Parts:
1 x main hull (resin)
1 x turret (resin)
1 x Gun aperture (resin)
1 x front axle (white metal)
2 x front tires (white metal)
1 x rear axle (white metal)
2 x rear tires - double (white metal)
3 x Maxim MG (white metal)
2 x headlights (white metal)
2 x brake system (white metal)
1 x bumper (white metal)
No Decals!
No instructions!





Dimensions (scale):
Apparently, the basic dimensions of the vehicle fit. The platform for the turret has a diameter that is minimally too large. The overall length is consistent (not taking into account the overhanging gun barrel). Only the height is missing about 2mm. This also becomes clear if you place a figure in the appropriate scale next to the vehicle and make a size comparison with historical photos. Here, the model figure appears somewhat taller than the persons in the photos ( minus the bases, if any). However, it can still be argued here that there are small and large people (which is impressively confirmed by a special photograph of a Garford-Putilov in Freikorps service in Berlin with soldiers of different sizesin front of it).



Detailing:
The model has raised details and a strongly elaborated rivet structure. This is of course clearly too large for the scale, but not unusual for resin tabletop models. Of course, the number of rivets here do not match the original, but they are basically correctly positioned.
The vehicle is kept quite simple and one or the other detail is missing, but all characteristic features are included. A problem however is the missing gun barrel. Because you only get the cover, which was built around the gun. Inside this resin part is hollow. It is questionable whether a gun barrel really has to be represented here, since the gun cover actually hides the gun barrel to a large extent.


On my model, I represented the gun barrel by a drilled-out plastic rod.
However, the length of the barrel was unclear. In some historical shots the barrel reaches almost to the end of the aperture, in other shots the barrel is much deeper inside the tube.





The top of the gun platform also seems to be incorrectly reproduced. Instead of being recessed slightly inward, it should be flat and also have rivets. 

But the biggest drawback of the model is something completely different: .
The main hull is warped. That is, the rear gun emplacement is slanted and, on the one hand, leans to the left in the direction of travel and, on the other hand, rises at an angle towards the rear. Even a bath in hot water and the attempt to compensate the sloping position by bending were unsuccessful. If you build the armored car without taking this into account, you end up with a clear slant of the platform and the tower sitting on it. The only option here is to mount the rear axle at a slight angle to conceal the slant of the platform. However, if you look directly at the vehicle from the front, you will still notice the slanted position of the tower. If the tower is displayed in a rotated state, this circumstance is even more pronounced.

Here once in "normal" built condition:

And here in " hidden " condition:

Probably only cutting the hull apart and reattaching the platform would fix this flaw. However, this would involve an immense amount of work, which would be equivalent to a complete rebuild of the vehicle.

Casting quality:
The casting quality is satisfactory. On my models I have seen cleanly cast rivets and details, no chipping of the resin or broken off areas. However, several rivets on the roof of the driver's cab were not properly cast. (Unfortunately I noticed this only after painting the model).



This is an isolated case, however, as I received a second kit where the casting is clean. Slight bubbling is otherwise only found on the underside of the vehicle (in areas that cannot be seen). The deformation of the hull has already been addressed above. So overall it is a cleanly cast model with decent reproduction of the details.
 
Accuracy of fit:
The accuracy of the fit is satisfactory. Especially the axles and tires could impress with clean fits and notches, which make the assembly (with superglue) very easy. For the MGs, it is recommended to drill holes and then fit them there (so that they do not break off accidentally even during a tabletop game - The are long enough for that). You can of course magnetize the turret, but you should keep in mind that due to the sloping shape of the platform, the superstructure will tilt significantly to the side at some angles, thus showing this flaw even more clearly.

For the two headlights it is recommended to drill small holes in the fenders to fix them there permanently.

The most delicate part of the model are the two brakes. They are mounted in front of the rear tires and glued directly to the underside of the fuselage. The problem is that you can't drill a hole for them, otherwise they would sit too high. Thus, the two parts are attached to the fuselage in a very exposed place only with superglue, which makes breaking off by too rough handling possible.

Material (Quality):
The resin selected for the model is relatively robust and heavy. It does not seem to bend as usual when heated in a water bath. The vehicle also has a fair amount of weight due to the numerous white metal parts. The metal parts are all sturdy and will forgive some bending. The resin parts are also all solidly cast.

Decals:
There are no decals included with this kit. You may want to contact "Black Lions Decals", a company that has some decal sets for WWI vehicles in their program. Here, for example, a set is offered for a Garford-Putilov in Freikorps service around 1919. Also available are decals for Russian variants of the vehicle. However, the decals have to be scaled up to 1/56 as they are not offered in this size as standard. However, this will be done on request without much extra charge.



Instructions:
The "kit" has no instructions. To build the model, it is recommended to look for pictures of original vehicles on the Internet and orient yourself by them. Be careful when using built models as reference! Often the turret was put on incorrectly. When magnetizing (or gluing) the turret, make sure that it is not centered on the platform! Instead, you should place the rear of the turret directly on the outer edge of the platform dish and then fix the turret in place.
In addition, it must be taken into account that the gun cover sits so low on the turret that it almost rests on the outer edge of the platform.



Price:
The model currently costs 22.00 British pounds. This is an acceptable price for such a resin model. Unfortunately, the armored car is only available from Empress Miniatures in the UK. Which is why transport costs and customs duties are still added to the price of the model for any European buyer.
 
Further notes:
Two-component glue or better superglue is needed for assembly.
To correct bent/warped resin parts, it is recommended to soak the affected parts in a bowl of hot water for a few seconds and then carefully bend them back into the correct shape. This can be repeated as needed.
You should also have a tinker's knife for deburring and some sandpaper for sanding off any unevenness.
CAUTION: Please sand only outdoors or over an exhaust system! Resin dust is highly harmful to health and is most likely carcinogenic!

Dimensions:
Height: 4,7 cm
Width: 4,8 cm (mit MGs)
Lenght: 10,8 cm (mit Geschützrohr)

Summary Rating:

Dimensions (scale): good
Detailing: good
Casting quality: sufficient (due to warped hull)
Accuracy of fit: good
Material (quality): good (But: reworking by heating is not possible for bigger parts)
Decals: - not available-
Instructions: - not available-



Conclusion:
The Garford-Putilov from Empress Miniatures is the only serious model of its kind in 1/56 scale (28mm) on the market. There are still one or two resin models and emerging 3D prints, but they are not convincing in any way, neither in quality nor in design.
It is all the more unfortunate that the Empress model has a warped hull that cannot be easily corrected. Even with masking, the slanted platform remains clearly visible from one angle or another. If this flaw were not present, this model would be unreservedly recommended to any table-top player.




« Last Edit: March 19, 2023, 01:06:50 AM by Armstrong »

Offline carlos marighela

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Re: Tank review (1914 - 1919) What is available on the market.
« Reply #19 on: March 19, 2023, 08:13:31 AM »
Nice review. If memory serves these were from the old Copplestone Castings range and were nominally 1/55 (?)  I remember them being some slightly odd scale. Close enough anyway.

Company B also do a range of suitable decals for 1/56 Russian armoured cars, including skull ad crossbones designs.

https://company-b-models-and-miniatures.myshopify.com/collections/decals-for-1-56-vehicles?page=4
Em dezembro de '81
Botou os ingleses na roda
3 a 0 no Liverpool
Ficou marcado na história
E no Rio não tem outro igual
Só o Flamengo é campeão mundial
E agora seu povo
Pede o mundo de novo

Offline Armstrong

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  • Posts: 32
Re: Tank review (1914 - 1919) What is available on the market.
« Reply #20 on: March 19, 2023, 11:51:44 PM »
Nice review. If memory serves these were from the old Copplestone Castings range and were nominally 1/55 (?)  I remember them being some slightly odd scale. Close enough anyway.

Company B also do a range of suitable decals for 1/56 Russian armoured cars, including skull ad crossbones designs.

https://company-b-models-and-miniatures.myshopify.com/collections/decals-for-1-56-vehicles?page=4

Yes, I think it is a former Copplestone Casting model. If it really is in 1/55 then the measurements are even "worse"... since it is already a bit too low in high.
But between 1/56 and 1/55 is not such a great difference anyway.

And yes, if you want to Create some Russian armoured cars, the skull and bones of Company B are very fitting. For Freikorps units the form of the sculls is sadly wrong,
since they had a certain basic design where the scull had more the form of an upside down pear. But I am too choosy when it comes to correct markings. ^^°

Offline Armstrong

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Re: Tank review (1914 - 1919) What is available on the market.
« Reply #21 on: April 14, 2025, 10:48:43 PM »
5. Freikorps A7V by John Hart



A brief history:

I apologize in advance if I leave out some facts. But I have to make sure that the summary does not turn into a page-long essay. However, I can add more information about the two Freikorps A7V and the organization of Kokampf if desired. So just ask your question in the chat and I'll see if I can answer it. 

The Freikorps A7V is probably one of the least known German tanks. Originally mistaken as a quickly assembled copy of an A7V main battle tank (made of inferior steel on the chassis of a repurposed Überlandwagen), this vehicle later turned out to be another official A7V tank variant that had its beginnings during the war.

But let's start at the beginning:
When the guns came to rest at the front and the German soldiers marched back to their barracks from France, the majority of the German main battle tanks were left behind in the former deployment areas. In fact, there was probably only one A7V main battle tank that was spared this fate.
There were also two half-finished armored cars on a factory site near Berlin. These had been designed as communication vehicles. Equipped with a radio system with a retractable transmitter mast, Morse headlights (so-called flashers) and a cable plough that could lay a telephone cable at a depth of 30 cm while driving, these vehicles were intended to serve as mobile communication stations in the front line.

But this never happened. When the war was over, these two vehicles stood untouched on a factory site.
However, when the German Empire was threatened by unrest and uprisings in 1919, a combat unit was set up under which the majority of the remaining armored cars and tanks were united. This unit was known as Kokampf (Kommando der Kampfwagenabteilung(en) – Commando of the armored vehicle departments) and comprised various divisions in which the last remaining main battle tanks (of type A7V, Mark IV and Mark A Whippet) were combined.
The two A7V communication vehicles were also used for this purpose. The vehicles were converted, given a new roof construction, the cable plough was removed and the opening for this was closed with an armored plate on the rear of the vehicle.
The two A7V variants were equipped with four MG08s in the casemates as standard. The armament could be supplemented with additional MGs in the numerous hatches.
However, it can be assumed that only the four MGs in the casemates were carried as standard and the additional MGs were only used in the additional hatches for show effects. (If all these MGs had been used in combat, the two-man MG teams would have hindered each other inside the tank).
The most striking feature of the two tanks is probably the roof construction, which consisted of two separate cupolas (one for the commander, the other for the driver). It is clear that this was a provisional improvisation. On the one hand, these two cupolas made communication between the commander and the driver more difficult and, on the other, driving through uneven terrain would have been a dangerous undertaking for the two men, who would probably have suffered more than just bumps on their heads from the shaking and rocking.
However, as the vehicles were only used on the road (probably mainly in large cities), this improvisation was acceptable.
Not much is known about the deployment of the two vehicles. Photos show that both tanks were used in Berlin. The second vehicle, named “Hedi”, was also used in Leipzig. It is noticeable here that it later lacked the side track covers.
It is not known whether the tanks actually took part in fighting. However, it is certain that they patrolled the streets of Berlin and were symbolically parked in public places. They were also in great demand as photo motifs. There are several pictures of soldiers having themselves photographed in front of the fully equipped vehicles (almost every hatch was fitted with a machine gun).
It can be assumed that the vehicles were scrapped as part of the Treaty of Versailles in mid-1919. In addition, nothing is known about further use outside Berlin and Leipzig.

Personal note on the crew and armament:
It can be assumed that the tanks were equipped with four MG 08s as standard. Further weapons could be installed in the additional hatches if required, but this is rather unlikely due to the limited space inside.
Based on the crew breakdown of an A7V main battle tank of the First World War, a “Freikorps A7V” must have had at least 12 men: A driver, a commander, eight machine gunners (one loader and one gunner for each of four machine guns), a mechanic and a dispatcher.



The kit (by John Hart)

Scope:
1 x main hull (resin 3D print)
2 x track drive section (resin 3D print)
1 x bottom plate (resin 3D print)
2 x rod for hull plate (brass)
(Track units, base plate and brass rods are already assembled, but can also be easily separated for painting)
4 x turret - two each with two different openings (resin 3D print)
4 x MG08 for the turrets (resin 3D print)
8 x MG08 for hull openings
4 x hatch (large) (resin 3D print)
4 x hatch (small) (resin 3D print)
No decals!
No instructions!


Fig 1) Hull version of “Hedi” during operation in Leipzig, without side skirts


Fig. 2) Hull of “Car 54” or “Hedi” in Berlin


Fig. 3) Base plate with track sections


Fig. 4) Base plate from below with support brass rods
 
Dimensions (scale):
There are no official construction plans for this A7V variant. However, it can be assumed that the dimensions are basically the same as those of the A7V main battle tank (especially since the same chassis was used). In this case, the basic dimensions (height, length, width) are completely correct. Interpretation is required for the roof construction. This is because there are only a few pictures of the tank, which also only show the vehicle from the side at different angles.

In fact, there are only three differences to the original (and these are more a matter of interpretation):
•   The upper edge of the roof slopes backwards on the model. If you compare this with the basic shape of the A7V main battle tank, I would say that it should be absolutely horizontal to the ground.
•   The side track covers should be perpendicular to the ground and not run at the same angle as the side armor plate.
•   At the rear of the tank, an additional armor plate is missing, which covered the original opening for a cable drum. As I have an early model, it is possible that John Hart will add this. (see fig. 5)

However, the first two deviations are not clearly visible in the photos! Therefore, I can only describe my impression here, but not call them deviations from the original armor!!!


Fig. 5) I used some plastic sheet to show the missing armor plate on the right side.


Fig. 6) Carefully packed machine guns


Fig. 7) Machine guns for the towers


Fig. 8 ) Towers for the casemates with different openings

Detailing:
The vehicle is really incredibly detailed. You could almost say: “Every rivet is right here”.
You also have the option of opening almost all the hatches on the vehicle and equipping them with an MG08 (as you can see in many pictures of the vehicles).
The turrets can be glued into the casemates at different angles or you can do as I did and slightly reduce the height of the turrets, attach small stoppers to the inside of the roof and thus ensure that the turrets remain movable.

A little advice:
If you place the machine guns in hot water, you can bend them slightly to change the elevation so that the machine guns do not all have the same uniform elevation.


Furthermore, John Hart offers two versions of the main battle tank. One is the basic version with side skirts and the other is the later version of Hedi, as seen in Leipzig, with missing side skirts.


Fig. 9) My solution was to fix the towers in the casemates with a few spare plastic rods and allow them to rotate.


Fig. 10) Flaps for the viewing hatches


Fig. 11) Machine guns for the side hatches

Casting quality/print quality:
The 3D print is really good. There were only minimal areas on my models that I had to touch up. These included a small missing corner on the edges of the very finely printed casemates, as well as a small hole in the rear part of the roof. I also had to remove a few printing sprues on the undercarriage area.
Unfortunately, the vehicle has large straight surfaces and you can see the lines of the printer in some places. In addition, I have a clear warp halfway up the armor on the right side of the hull. Also affected are the round casemates, which are not perfectly round but have edges and lines. While the printer lines can be partially smoothed with some sandpaper, sanding is not advisable in the casemate area, as otherwise the fine rivet structure will also be removed and the already thin material will be sanded even thinner.
The designer has assured me that he is still working on optimizing the print. So we can look forward to seeing whether this will be rectified in the near future. If the printing were perfect, this vehicle could also be highly recommended to every model maker.

Advice from me:
I sanded all the round inserts for the casemates to remove the slight edge structure. I also lightly sanded down the lines of the printer, at least on the large open areas of the side armor.



Fig. 12) In the side view you can easily see the lines of the printer. You can also see a “corner formation” and a print line on the round casemates. In the middle area, the surface was smoothed with sandpaper.

Accuracy of fit:
The accuracy of fit is phenomenal. The designer has already firmly connected the base plate and the running gear with brass rods. This finished component can be easily inserted into the fuselage. For painting, all the components can be easily removed from each other and painted individually. All hatches and MGs also fit perfectly into the openings provided on the fuselage. It may only be necessary to sand the turrets a little so that they fit into the casemates. Unfortunately, the casemates/hull have slight warping inside in the area of the openings, which could interfere with fitting.

My tip:
Carefully sand off some of the top rim of the towers. This should usually allow them to fit into the casemates without any problems.


Material (quality):
The resin selected for the model is relatively robust and light. It also has the advantage of becoming pliable in hot water, which makes it possible to “repair” or customize one or two things (e.g. the elevation of the MGs).

Decals:
No decals are included with this kit. You may be able to contact “Black Lion Decals”. They have a decal sheet for these Freikorps vehicles in 1/72 in their range. On request they also scale them up to 1/56. (This is also where I got my decals from. I also ordered the version for Hedi with the license plate which is needed of the version with the missing side skirts). The decals are not 100% correct. Nevertheless, they are quite good and the best choice at the moment. There is another Australian supplier on Ebay, but the decals are not scaled correctly and are also very thick, which means that they do not fit properly to the rivet structure.
At the moment I am planning to create decals myself, which may be added to the kits in the future.


Fig. 13) Unfortunately, the lettering is not 100% centered. The decals would have to be corrected here.
 
Instructions:
The kit has no instructions. It does not actually need them. Nevertheless, you should pay attention to which tower goes in which casemate! The towers with the semi-circular recess belong in the low casemates with the rounded corners. The towers with the square recesses, on the other hand, have their place in the casemates with the wider openings. (Just take a look at the pictures of my model).
With the hatches, you should make sure that all the viewing slits are at the top.
To be on the safe side, take a look at photos of the vehicles on the Internet beforehand. These may help you to determine the various details.


Fig. 14) View of the left side of the vehicle. Note the different design of the skulls on both sides.


Fig.15) Roof view with the lamellar covers.

Price:
The model currently costs about 25.00 GB pounds. This is an absolutely fair price for this 3D print. Unfortunately, the tank is only available from the manufacturer in Great Britain. Which is why the transportation and customs costs for European customers still need to be added to the price of the model. 

Further advice:
Two-component glue or better superglue is required for assembly.
To correct bent/warped resin parts, it is recommended to dip the affected parts in a bowl of hot water for a few seconds and then carefully bend them back into the correct shape. This can be repeated as required.
You should also have a craft knife for removing flash and some sandpaper for sanding off any unevenness.
ATTENTION: Please only sand outside or over an extraction device! Resin dust is highly harmful to health and is most likely carcinogenic!

Dimensions:
High: 6,1 cm
Width: 5,5 cm
Length: 12,8 cm

Evaluation summary:
Dimensions (scale): very good
Detailing: very good
Casting quality/print quality: good
Accuracy of fit: good plus
Material (quality): very good
Decals: - not available
Instructions: - not available -
Price: good

A few words about my model:
Of course, I also finished painting and assembling a model for the report. Actually, I also wanted to paint the Hedi version without skirts, but at the moment I simply don't have the time to do this.
Since I was more interested in painting car 54, I decided to take on this vehicle. The actual color of the tank is debatable. In fact, nothing is known about it. Both vehicles look very dark in the photos, which is why I personally tend towards a dark shade of gray, olive or green. For my vehicle, I opted for a blue-grey shade.
To emphasize the fine rivet and edge structure, I worked it out with a dark ink tone and accentuated it with pastel chalk. I also gave the vehicle a strong weathering, as the photos show the tanks in a similarly worn condition. In addition, the weathering strips that have run off make the lines of the print less recognizable.
As already mentioned, the decals are from “Black Lion Decals”. These were very thin and delicate. As they also cover a very large area, you have to be extremely careful when applying them. Otherwise they tear very easily. I also used a decal softener so that they adhere better to structures such as sheet metal joints and rivets.

As there is not much to see of the tracks, I simply painted them with dark metal paint, darkened them with black ink and also gave them a wash with “track wash”. I also added a lot of dust to the undercarriage area with pastel chalk. I highlighted some details on the tracks with a pencil.


Fig. 16) Another view of the roof structure.


Fig. 17) Viewing angle from the left-hand side of the vehicle.


Fig. 18) The vehicle from the rear. Note the detailed reproduction of the hinges for opening the domes.


Fig. 19) The vehicle with a figure from “Great War Miniatures” for size comparison

Conclusion:
There is currently no 1/56 scale model of the Freikorps A7V on the market. It is therefore all the more pleasing that this designer has taken on the subject. The realization, detailing and design are outstanding and show how much effort he has put into the project.
If you look at the few existing models in other scales (1/72 and 1/35), John Hart's model is the best version.
It is also great that he has also thought of the Hedi version without skirts.
The quick and easy assembly also speaks for this model. The whole thing is rounded off by the options to display almost all hatches open or closed, to be able to equip them with an MG08 and also to be able to glue in the turrets with different orientations.
The only drawback is the partially visible lines of the 3D printer and possibly the slight deviations from the original mentioned above.
John Hart's model is really well suited for the gaming table. Nevertheless, you should always exercise caution here, as the filigree MGs could possibly break off at the muzzle if you handle the model too carelessly. However, this really requires a rough hand, as they are otherwise quite robust.
As a model for model making and for presentation purposes, the tank is only suitable to a limited extent due to the printing marks. Here remains the hope that John Hart can optimize the printing process in the future, because then he has really created one of the best Freikorps A7V models that can not be so easily topped.


You can order the model directly at John Hart: johnrhart001@gmail.com
« Last Edit: April 14, 2025, 11:01:16 PM by Armstrong »

Online armchairgeneral

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Re: Tank review (1914 - 1919) What is available on the market.
« Reply #22 on: April 17, 2025, 01:17:34 PM »
Another excellent review and narrative and superbly completed model.

What else have you been doing for the last two years!  lol

Offline Armstrong

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Re: Tank review (1914 - 1919) What is available on the market.
« Reply #23 on: April 17, 2025, 09:37:25 PM »
Another excellent review and narrative and superbly completed model.

What else have you been doing for the last two years!  lol

Well... I built a few more models, but not from the time period of 1914-1919.
So there was also no update for the review during that time.

I hope to set up a few more vehicles in the near future. John Hart has created quite a few more outstanding miniatures of the time period.

 

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