What material for scenery bases?

[jon_1066]

What do you all use for basing scenery?  Specifically I'm looking at built up areas, railways, and the like.  I'm gaming in 6 mm so I don't want anything too thick (eg 3 mm MDF is half the height of the figures). 

I've tried plastic card and that has warped when PVA glue has dried on it.  I'd like to base my buildings in roughly 3-4" wide sections to match the size of a BUA in the games I play.

Cardboard is obviously cheap as chips but not going to last and will also warp

MDF is a bit too thick and still also prone to warping

I can get metal but that is obviously costly, though the weight is an advantage for staying put.  Another downside is I use magnetic bases so my stands will have a tendency to stick to it.

Any advice?

[TheBlackCrane]

I'd probably try something like styrene. You can get 1mm, 2mm sheets of it, cut with a craft knife or heavy duty scissors. Whilst it's thin it tends to be sufficiently stiff to avioid warping, more so than plasticard. Not particularly cheap, but does the job and not as expensive as metal.

[2010sunburst]

Thin ply is an option.  It come in sheets down to 1mm thick and is less prone to warping than MDF.  Laminating two sheets of plastic card can also work, but it’s a little more work.  Use plenty of liquid solvent and place the glued sheets under heavy flat weights for a day or so when it dries.  Last thing is use 3mm MDF but bevel the edges so it doesn’t stand out so much on the tabletop.  Again, more work but doable.

[Digits]

I use cork backed table mats…..never warp and can be bevelled as needed.

[McYellowbelly]

I use foamed PVC, or Foamex, as used for signs etc.
I use 3mm and bevel the edge with a knife.#
It's sturdy, light and doesnt warp

[Aethelflaeda was framed]

Foamex is good but hard to find in the US.

[anton ryzbak]

For Micro sized troops I go to a decent hardware/building supply store and get a few pieces of aluminum step-flashing. This comes in pieces about 5x7" and is thin enough to cut easily with a good pair of shears, about the thickness of heavy cardstock. It is dirt cheap, easy to cut and plenty strong to hold buildings, forest or minor terrain without warping. I prime it with automotive spray primed but the Rustoleum camo sprays would work fine too. You will find this in the shingles/roof repair area it is used when the shingles butt up against a wall or chimney.

[snitcythedog]

In the states I used door skin.  Thin, easy to cut and it has multiple layers of wood.  Looks like very thin plywood.  In the UK I use both foamex and matte board. 

One trick that may help stop or minimize warping when using porous materials is to seal them first.  If you get some cheap spray paint or sealer do a couple of thin even coats on both sides to seal the material prior to using. As long as you are not drenching it is a water based glue it tends to be enough. 

My basing tends to start with find sand or grit.  Generally I use very thin cheap superglue to adhere it to the base as it is not water-based to prevent warping.  You do have to watch out becasue it can overheat materials when curing, has fumes and can melt unprotected materials. 

[Mindenbrush]

I will second “snitcythedog” advice especially the sealing of both side before use.
Having purchased a 3D PLA printer recently, I have printed bases 1.5mm thick for my hedges and walls. I am working on doing larger areas for trees etc.

[traveller]

For small things I use old creditcards, customer club cards and similar plastic cards. Slim, can be cut with scissors, never warp and free