WIP Dungeon- Egyptian Style

[Dewbakuk]

I've got some vinamold, a colleague is bringing his hot plate into work, and will hopefully diffuse some of his extensive mold making knowledge.

Gah, horrible stuff, I've got a couple of different types. That said, if your colleague has a decent hotplate and knows how to control the temp properly then that solves the majority of it's problems. One word of advice, vinamold is fairly soft and liquid plaster is quite heavy, you might want to have a 'mold box' around the outside when casting, to prevent your casts bulging at the sides. Alternatively just have a decent thickness of mold around the edge.

decide what plaster to use. Any suggestions? Or suppliers?

Best place I've found, good prices and reasonable shipping charges. I've found cheaper product but the shipping can be horrendous. Overall this place works out best and has a good range of casting plasters.

http://www.specialplasters.co.uk/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=5

Crystacal R is a good plaster and very strong while still being workable should you want to shave/cut it after casting. Crystacast is very hard and strong but more difficult to sand down once set.




How old is the dungeon? Fresh colours and lived in or old, buried and faded?

Oh and if there are any odd blocks you need for builds, just let me know, I've got plenty of spares.

[Ssendam]

I use Herculite II but mix in 100:50 not 100:42, get it from here:

http://www.tomps.com/shop/herculite-plaster-p-137.html

best results use a surficant and a wobbly table

[Dewbakuk]

I've ordered from Tomps before, no issues, but their shipping charge is twice as much as SP. £12.45 + vat vs £6.50 + vat. Herculite II is a good plaster, it's the stuff Woodlands Scenics sells, but it's only a couple of pounds cheaper than the Crysta ones and not as strong.

[oldskoolrebel]

Thanks for the info; I'll see how the vinamold will go.

ok, so some more paint schemes.


^the left most floor features the original colour scheme.




A light dry brush of naples yellow, gives a nice yellowish colour while remaining very light.




a dry brush of sienna followed by naples yellow. Much darker than the other floors; but my current favourite.


So let me know what you think before I start to paint everything!

Cheers
Andy

[Dewbakuk]

I think it'll work. It looks a bit odd on a small piece like that but I think it'll be fine across the whole thing. I would suggest a try doing the pillars in the same scheme as the floor, it'll tie the walls to the floor more while also letting the pillars stand out. Colours added to the pillars wouldn't look out of place on either scheme so that shouldn't be an issue.

[oldskoolrebel]

I think it'll work. It looks a bit odd on a small piece like that but I think it'll be fine across the whole thing. I would suggest a try doing the pillars in the same scheme as the floor, it'll tie the walls to the floor more while also letting the pillars stand out. Colours added to the pillars wouldn't look out of place on either scheme so that shouldn't be an issue.

Thank you.

I'll probably spend today painting the remaining pieces with watered down PVA glue.

Once painting is finished I'm planning on sealing them.Have you had any experience of this? I don't know whither to go for watered down pva or matt spray varnish.

Cheers
Andy

[Dewbakuk]

I've not tried to be honest although I always intended to use a matt spray, never got around to it.

[oldskoolrebel]

Ok, all the pieces have now coated with watered down pva. A surprisingly long job; monotonous... very monotonous. Thankfully I had some dvds to watch.

So the job for tomorrow... apply the first coat of paint; to everything!

Cheers
Andy

[Dewbakuk]

Why the pva before painting?

[oldskoolrebel]

To seal the plaster, so it doesn't soak up as much paint and also to (theoretically) give some extra protection.

[Dewbakuk]

What kind of paint are you using? If it's acrylic then I wouldn't bother as the plastic will prevent it from being soaked in, I used watered down acrylic paint and never noticed an issue with it soaking the paint up. As you're going to put a seal on after painting to protect it I doubt it'll improve the protection by any appreciable level either.

[MODman]

To make the base use the plaster that the pieces are cast in, you can create virtually any type of surface that way, you can pour it directly onto MDF, altho it can cause warpage, (so i use 1ft square sections half inch thick). or you can make sections by pouring it onto plastic sheets (such as A4 paper holders) and then glue it to the board. As it is drying you can manipulate it just like molding clay,I have made rivers, muddy roads, hills, bomb craters lave pools to list a few this way.

[oldskoolrebel]

Small update, managed to basecoat the entire dungeon. I'm going through the Raw earth testers quite quickly. I think I'm going to get a large pot next time I head down to BnQ!



Hopefully at some point this week I'll be moldmaking. I've got the hot plate from my colleague- I'm looking forward to some fun with vinamold 

I'm working all weekend; tis lovely weather to camp don't you agree? I'll try and drybrush over the next could of days

Cheers
Andy

[gamer Mac]

You are getting there.
Keep up the good work.
Its lovely weather for camping, stop moaning