Razor saws and metal miniatures.

[Rivera]

I need to modify some of my metal minis by decapitation and limb swapping but am concerned about what effect it will have on my trusty razor saw that I've had for over thirty years.

Is it wise to use the saw or is there an alternative option?

[JollyBob]

I use a razor saw on my metal minis. I find its the best way to achieve a smooth cut.

Judging by the fact that you've had the saw for thirty-odd years, I would guess that its a pretty good quality one and that it should take to metal no problem. If you're worried that it will be damaged, X-acto make a reasonably cheap one with replaceable blades that can be picked up from most model shops or online.

[Major_Gilbear]

I've had no issues cutting metal figs with my razor saw, but note the following (from my experience):

- Old, soft, dark grey lead figs: these may gum up the blade, so clean the blade regularly.

- New, hard, shiny, tin figures: some of these are very hard metal, and if you're doing big pieces or lots of cutting (like the earlier PP Warjacks for example), they can blunt the blade fairly fast. Should still give you lots of work though, but be aware that they will need changing more often.

- For cutting lead, I run the saw over some chalk or graphite (soft pencil) first. This lubes the blade, and also helps to stop the lead swarf jamming fast into the teeth (so easier to periodically brush clean).

- For cutting hard tin, I run the saw over an old candle first. The wax helps the blade to not "jump" on the model whilst the cut is still shallow, and also lubes the blade.

- If you file or drill into a lot of metal miniatures, do the above chalk/graphite/wax trick with your files and drill bits too! It's saved many files from being irretrievably gummed up for me, and has stopped drill bits sticking (and then breaking) in models whilst drilling (I still break the odd very small one every so often though...).

All that said, be aware that sometimes using a heavy duty box cutter with a fixed blade or flat-sided clippers can be very viable too. Just be careful that you use a suitable tool for each task!

If using a box cutter-type knife, I find that putting something under the model (like a folded rag) is important so that it doesn't slip or crush detail on the model as force is applied.

If using flat-sided clippers, realise that the face against the flat side will be clipped fairly flat, but the the other side will be squeezed and distorted (so not great if you want to re-use both parts being separated).

Occasionally though, I score heavily (and carefully) or lightly saw partially though the parts to be separated, and then (using my fingers) bend the parts back and forth along the cut. After some repetition, the metal will fail along the fatigue point and the parts will fall apart. This is handy if you are trying to preserve detail that may be lost if you simply saw across the join normally (for example, removing a head neatly for re-use, whilst preserving a high collar on the same model too).

Anyway, hope that all makes sense, but do ask if you need me to explain any of my comments further! 

[FramFramson]

Those lubrication tips are really handy, Gilbear!

[Mitch K]

I've found a jeweler's saw and a bench peg beats a razor saw hands down for this sort of work.

[Hammers]

Those lubrication tips are really handy, Gilbear!

Yup, a dab of paint thinner on those teeth really helps.

[Hammers]

I've found a jeweler's saw and a bench peg beats a razor saw hands down for this sort of work.

I use this too when the cut needs to be placed where it is not possible with a flat blade. Make sure you have a good supply of fine tooth extra blades for it though. Since it is rarely possible to clamp a miniature you need to hold it steady with your hand against a soft support, which rarely means steady enough and the blade will snap.

[Rivera]

Thanks guys for all the useful tips, especially the lubrication ones as I really didn't want to risk losing one of my oldest and trusty tools due to my ignorance.

The method of clamping might not be a problem as, if I recall rightly, I read somewhere that if you press your figure into a large blob of Blu-tack on your workbench it might hold it long enough for the job in hand?

[Mitch K]

I use this too when the cut needs to be placed where it is not possible with a flat blade. Make sure you have a good supply of fine tooth extra blades for it though. Since it is rarely possible to clamp a miniature you need to hold it steady with your hand against a soft support, which rarely means steady enough and the blade will snap.

Hammers, a bench peg is what you need. I have two setups, one that goes on the free-standing mini vice I have, and another that can be put into a bench vice and gronked down tight enough that no power on earth will move it!

Lubricating the blade, as stated, is a big help - I use soap or beeswax, as it picking the right blade! Too fine is just as annoying as too coarse, as the blade tends to clog and the frictional heating then melts the white metal in place. Oh, and put the blade in the right way round - these saws cut a lot better on the pull stroke than the push (like a razor saw / hacksaw).

[Major_Gilbear]

I... Wouldn't try the Blu-tack trick to be honest; it sounds like a recipe for an accident!    I mean, bear in mind how much force it takes to smoosh the Blu-tack and then think about how much force you're going to be applying to the cut - the Blu-tack's clearly not going to hold long/well enough I think.

I find the holding it firmly against a folded rag on a suitable cutting surface is usually pretty good, as I mentioned above.

If you want better (more specific!) advice, why not tell us what the figure is and where you're trying to make a cut? Perhaps we could help!

[Hammers]

Hammers, a bench peg is what you need. I have two setups, one that goes on the free-standing mini vice I have, and another that can be put into a bench vice and gronked down tight enough that no power on earth will move it!

Like so?

[Hammers]

I... Wouldn't try the Blu-tack trick to be honest; it sounds like a recipe for an accident!    I mean, bear in mind how much force it takes to smoosh the Blu-tack and then think about how much force you're going to be applying to the cut - the Blu-tack's clearly not going to hold long/well enough I think.

I find the holding it firmly against a folded rag on a suitable cutting surface is usually pretty good, as I mentioned above.

If you want better (more specific!) advice, why not tell us what the figure is and where you're trying to make a cut? Perhaps we could help!

Plus blue-tack is a bastard to clean out of nicks and crevices.

[Mitch K]

Like so?

Precisely so! It's easy enough to make your own, and it's handy to as well, as sometimes one with a deep recess cut in the tapered end is useful, or you want a different taper or whatnot.

[Daeothar]

I've been using this jeweler's saw since I had to mandatorily get one when I started 'Conservation and Restoration' at Antwerp's academy of fine arts. Back in 1996 that was and it is still as effective as it was 15 years ago. Of course the blades can snap, but once you get a feel for the thing, you can get surprising mileage out of a single blade.

I bought a ton back then at a student's discount, and then got a drop-out's stash half a year later as well. I'm still using those exact blades! Down to the last baggie (but those hold 100) and I fear that maybe this brand might be unavailable once I run out. Of course the saw will take just about any blade, but still; when it works...

The 'anvil', I picked up at Crisis last year. So, oddly enough in Antwerp again, come to think of it...

That city is apparently not only provides good times, but also good tools. OK, that could be explained in all kinds of wrong ways, but trust me; this particular item is very useful indeed... I also have a small vice clamped to the work desk, but it's off to the side, always just outside of the good light, and it rotates on its base. There is a clamp to fix it into position, but that has the tendency to slip when a load of force is applied, so I hardly use it.

Now this anvil... I keep it stored away, but when I need to cut something irregular, it comes in great. Especially when the cuts are complex (multiple angles). It simply provides a good base to keep the miniature steady. I don't clamp anything, I just hold the part that needs cutting firmly onto the anvil, on the most appropriate surface, by hand. Again, this takes some practice, but gives a lot of control...

[Rivera]

Ok, the Blu-tack idea is out and the folded cloth idea is in - the idea of gumming up my blade has finalised it for me.  I like the ideas of a bench peg and a jeweller's saw but that's for the future.

The figure in question is one of several of EM4's Skeletal Robots (which I think are great mini's) and doesn't seem to pose any problems as to access to the head and arm cuts but I'll try it out on a less needed figure first.  As the main cutting pressure from the saw seems to be on the back stroke I'll take it slowly and make sure I don't cut the head off at a 'jaunty' angle.  Then I guess that it's just a matter of drilling and pinning with brass wire.

What could possibly go wrong?