Rotary tool suggestion??

[Blue in vt]

Hi all,

I had been hoping that santy claws would bring me one of those Dremel pistol grip stylus rotary tools for Xmas but my dad informed me that when he went to get it for me they were no longer available...so...any suggestions for a similar device?  I'm looking for something to use for removing integrated bases and bulk metal removal for conversions...my standard corded dremel is just too fast!

Any help is appreciated.

Blue

[Mitch K]

I bought a lithium ion ersatz dremel from Lidl about a year ago. I've found it to be a very good tool for modelmaking. The speed on the lowest setting is ideal for drilling, and at faster speeds works well with burrs and milling bits (doesn't heat and melt white metal and clog the tool!). It's not too clever on steel but that's what the tailed one is for.

[Dewbakuk]

I use one of these:



It's wired but the speed control is excellent, the grip is more comfortable than a Dremel and it's about half the price. Never regretted the switch. It is a bit heavier though which might bother someone.

[FramFramson]

at faster speeds works well with burrs and milling bits (doesn't heat and melt white metal and clog the tool!)

Wait wait wait what what what? Tell me more! Which bits are these that you're using?

I've never managed to get my dremel to cut white metal without instantly clogging the bit/disc and ruining it.

[pacarat]

I use an old (mid-1980's) variable speed dremel with flex shaft attached. I plug this in to an old sewing machine foot pedal to control speed. Never had an issue with high temp...

pacarat

[FramFramson]

I have a variable-speed dremel, using a foot pedal. Tried slow and fast, never managed not to clog the cutting discs.

[Graveyman]

I just googled "Dremel Stylus" and got quite a few hits so I think its still available. I love the feel of my stylus over regular dremels and can't recommend it enough.

[Cubs]

I've never managed to get my dremel to cut white metal without instantly clogging the bit/disc and ruining it.

I use thin metal circular-saw type blades with wee teeth, for cutting both white metal and wood; they cut cleanly without melting or burning. I bought a pack of three sizes - I think it might have been from Hobbycraft, or perhaps Antics - years back, and they do me very nicely.

[FramFramson]

I use thin metal circular-saw type blades with wee teeth, for cutting both white metal and wood; they cut cleanly without melting or burning. I bought a pack of three sizes - I think it might have been from Hobbycraft, or perhaps Antics - years back, and they do me very nicely.

Hm! I'd seen those before but a fellow I talked to said he still had melting issues with those. Can't hurt to give it a try.

[Mitch K]

Wait wait wait what what what? Tell me more! Which bits are these that you're using?

I've never managed to get my dremel to cut white metal without instantly clogging the bit/disc and ruining it.

I use coarse abrasive wheels for cutting. It does work, but to be honest, in order to stop the metal sintering into the disc, you have to put the speed down so low it isn't any easier than using a jeweller's saw.

I have some fairly coarse milling/routing bits (flat sided, ball end, fine point) and at low speed these work fantastically for coarse removal of stock. Cheap diamond burrs are my go-to for large seam removal. I've had two mains powered dremel type, and even on the lowest speed neither was any good on plastic or white metal. The battery powered one was a revelation.

[Cubs]

Hm! I'd seen those before but a fellow I talked to said he still had melting issues with those. Can't hurt to give it a try.

The smaller the diameter of the blade, the slower the cutting edge is travelling, so the less likely it'll be to melt.

Wow, I got to use some geometry in applied knowledge!

[FramFramson]

Plus the smaller blade'll fit in tighter spaces, so that's a plus.

[jthomlin]

I have mentioned before my love for the Stylus, fantastic tool and a shame it's now discontinued. For what it's worth, it seems there is still stock here in OZ and I'd be happy to get one for you, but apart from the 240/110V power/plug issue, you would also have to deal with postage and the usual 50% more than anywhere else pricing (~US$90  ).

As far as cutting/removal bits go, and remembering my experience is mostly with soft lead early 80's Citadel, I find this bit the most effective:

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=199#image0

It goes through the old lead like a knife through butter and does not clog.

Cheers!
Joe Thomlinson

[FramFramson]

Sounds good! I'll give it a try!

[Mitch K]

I have mentioned before my love for the Stylus, fantastic tool and a shame it's now discontinued. For what it's worth, it seems there is still stock here in OZ and I'd be happy to get one for you, but apart from the 240/110V power/plug issue, you would also have to deal with postage and the usual 50% more than anywhere else pricing (~US$90  ).

As far as cutting/removal bits go, and remembering my experience is mostly with soft lead early 80's Citadel, I find this bit the most effective:

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=199#image0

It goes through the old lead like a knife through butter and does not clog.

Cheers!
Joe Thomlinson

Dunno if mine are Dremel (I suspect not) but these are exactly what I use (more like 100/118/196), and they work a treat on  soft metal. I think mine were sold as micro-router bits, for detail work on wood.