Help needed using Vallejo pigments.

[cram]

I just bought the Vallejo pigment sets. I haven't as yet got any experience in using them.

I'm looking to weather tanks and other vehicles for WW2 Normandy. Looking at old photo's of tanks in Normandy, the tracks look more dusty than muddy. So to achieve this look I believe I should just brush the pigment straight on from the bottle, and then fix it? My main question though is that hopefully someone with experience using the Vallejo pigments, can give me advice on which colours to use to create a dust look. Do I mix these colours together, or apply one on top of the other?
Thanks.

[Cubs]

The powders need to go on after varnishing, or they will dissolve. You can buy fixatives to stick them down, but I'm told that white spirit does the same thing. You can either mix the fluid with the powder and then smear it on, or paint the liquid on and brush the powder over the top (it will stick to the liquid).

Personally I just brush the powder on and leave it without fixing in place, since I can always put more on if necessary. Put the powder on in different layers, mix it together, do whatever you want, I don't think you can be too precious about it, just slap it all over with a big soft brush and blow away the excess.

[DELTADOG]

I dust it dry on the surfaces and fix it with spayvarnish or hairspray.

[cram]

Thanks for the help guys.

[Hammers]

In my day of modelling the word among artisans of the craft was that pigments (like dry pastels) should simply be brushed on and one should stay away from all fixatives and sticky bases. It was considered the only way to get a natural look. I have used rust pigments this way and while the pigment will smear a bit when handled (as wargaming miniatures are wont to do) I find that most of it stays where it is supposed to.

[cram]

I will be doing a couple of test pieces over the next week or two, so that I can get a feel for using the pigments. I will leave one unfixed Hammers and see how it wears. I'm thinking that if any pigment does come away then you could simple dab a bit of new pigment on in its place?

[Hammers]

I will be doing a couple of test pieces over the next week or two, so that I can get a feel for using the pigments. I will leave one unfixed Hammers and see how it wears. I'm thinking that if any pigment does come away then you could simple dab a bit of new pigment on in its place?

Yes, plus quality pigments stay pretty well in place as it is. Don't ask me the physics behind it but it does, reasonably.

[carabus03]

Hi,

Stuck at work so it's a short answer.

I mostly lurk on the forum but I will give you my thoughts...

I mix pva and the pigment together and build up a base of pigment and place in the heavy areas first. I then add a water and pva mix and flick the brush or used the air from my airbrush to create splatter effects. I then add pigment just dropped on areas for different colours variations to suit. To seal it I use MIG pigment fixer, white spirits with not work, you can rub it with your finger and it will come off, not with the pigment fixer.

Here is something I am working on now:







Hope it helps, any question please ask,

Carabus

[nic-e]

you can suspend pigment in any medium really.water will work but might not last, linseed oil works, as does turps.acrylic paint medium works well, but if you over do it you will just be making acrylic paint.