Basing solution idea for intregral base figures

[Spooktalker]

I frequently find myself struggling with ideas for better basing, and here's one worth writing down. The problem to be solved is you have integral-based figures and want a low profile without a need to spend a lot of time with snips. Some example figures this would be for are Grenadier, Ral Partha, Heritage, and Reaper Dark Heaven. A solution like this isn't needed for more contemporary integral based figures like Foundry, where the integral base is thin and as compact as possible.

The solution is you get a set of laser-cut acrylic bases of your chosen size (or I'm thinking I would start with US pennies, and smooth one side over with greenstuff), and make a flat, one piece mold of them. To base your figures, set them in the recesses and pour resin in to fill them up. Pop out the figures and done. Make a largish mold or a few medium sized molds and you'd be set up to do a hundred or more bases with one small batch of resin. If you were eager to get one or two figures based you could even use greenstuff as your mold material rather than resin. I'm also wondering whether elastomeric patch and/or concrete patch would do the trick and obviate the need for resin, mixing the resin being the one unsavory part of the operation.

I have some of that clear plastic mold stuff that can be reformed in hot water (which I found to be inferior for detailed parts but may work perfectly for this particular application), and I think I'll do a test mold using that.  I wonder too if as simple a shape as a penny could be molded using elastomeric patch as the mold material itself.

If resin was used there would be a meniscus as with any one-piece mold, but this would actually work to your advantage, as the meniscus would be facing up, giving you a slight recess to fill with the texture of your choice, or even greenstuff to sculpt in dungeon tiles or whatever.

You could also potentially embed a magnet in the base in the same go. Though you'd have to snip away part of the base to do so, which would be easier for some figures than others (those infernal Reaper broccoli bases posing the biggest challenge).

Your thoughts?

[Spooktalker]

double post

[blackstone]

Interesting idea. Problems could be resin is pretty brittle and doesn't bond to metal. I could see the resin part of the base detaching or shattering if the mini was dropped. The lower the profile the weaker the resin would be. 1 or 2mm and I'd fear for the durablility of the base. Any thicker and your not low profile anymore.  I think you'd just have problems filling the base cavities with resin with a miniature in the way of the cup. Not sure it'd be worth the phaffing around.

[Connectamabob]

Cheap souvenir rings filled with epoxy (glue, not putty), and topped with Aves/GS groundwork. With tabbed figures I trim the tab down to pegs under the feet so the fig can be mounted cleanly after the groundwork sculpting is done, but for molded-on bases I imbed them like you're describing... minus any trimming to make them fit the rings' diameter or depth, of course.

The ring adds strength and weight, and gives the base a nice looking display-like rim.

Epoxy glue still needs to be mixed, but it can be had at a wide variety of stores (even supermarkets), and it is a resin, so you can fill stuff with it and even cast with it.

Which reminds me, I really need to to get some new stuff off the bench. That pic is not as compelling as fully finished/painted minis would be.

[Major_Gilbear]

Along the lines of Connectamabob's suggestion, you can also get "hollow" bases (example: link 1 and link 2) which you can just stick your mini into and then putty over with Milliput or whatever.

I dare say that you can make your own hollow base blanks instead of buying them too - either resin cast like the ones linked to, or laser cut discs and rings in plasticard/mdf/plywood.

Much simpler and safer than trying to cast the models into the bases.

[Gary Peach]

Thats a really nice idea, especially for personality figures etc.

[Connectamabob]

Much simpler and safer than trying to cast the models into the bases.

This. If you're working with something like a hollow cast base or the rings like I use, it's much, much easier to properly control the depth and orientation of the figure relative to the base. On my first goes with the rings I was just pouring 5-minute epoxy into the ring, sticking the figure base/tab in where/how I wanted it, and holding it there till it set up. I quickly found that way can lead to a lot of errors, like the feet being a smidge too high/low, or the figure leaning slightly in one direction or another. By just capping the bottoms of the rings with the epoxy, then either pegging the figure in place post-groundwork, or using half-cured putty to "blu-tack" the figure in place pre-groundwork gave me far better control and reliability.

[Spooktalker]

Thanks for your feedback on this idea!

I'm familiar with the recess-type base, and it's a great idea and one I plan to employ for some varieties of figures. For the particular brief I set up in the first post, however, this doesn't meet spec.

I like the idea of using epoxy glue, as it's thick and sturdy. If I was going to use resin I would go with Pour-on, as I have it on hand and it's also got those factors of being very sturdy and having sticking power, so I'm not overly concerned about the risk of not sticking or breakage due to thin-ness.

I am concerned about my time and would prefer not to use resin if I don't have to. Therefore, taking the feedback into account I present version 2 of this thought:

As before use US pennies as masters, but this time make them double-high, with a very thin bit of greenstuff to make the sides (and bottoms) perfectly smooth. Make a single-piece mold as before. Next, instead of just sitting the figures in the cavities, and pouring, glue the miniature to a penny and stick the figure on base into the cavity. Then fill the cavity, let dry, and pop out, and you should have a smooth side 3mm high. It's a little thicker than I would like but I can live with it. It solves the main problem, which is the mound effect. Also, was there any concern about sturdiness, lay those to rest. Next best of all, this way I could use some other material to fill the mold, for example pre-mixed concrete patch, elastomeric patch, super heavy gel medium or modeling paste (what I call marble paste as it's made of marble dust and a binder). One of these will be perfect (my hunch is a mix of marble paste and gel medium, but concrete patch could win out as when set against a rubber surface it hardens perfectly smooth... that stuff never ceases to amaze me).

I started the masters but need to see about making the one-part mold. I have some silicone caulk here so I might try this method:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-Silicone-Caulking-to-Make-Molds/
I just need some glycerine.

Also, as an FYI, I learned my favorite glue for gluing miniatures to bases, Liquid Nails, is "acid-free." A big hurray and one less thing to worry about vis-a-vis all the lead dudes.

I dare say that you can make your own hollow base blanks instead of buying them too - either resin cast like the ones linked to, or laser cut discs and rings in plasticard/mdf/plywood.

Much simpler and safer than trying to cast the models into the bases.

A definite no to casting hollow bases (the miniscus is the main reason, it would have to be facing down and I refuse to file down bases more than a handful). But the rings idea is one I had also come up with and I've wondered if that would work. I am fairly significantly invested in laser-ply bases for my lead collection as it is. Initially the acid + lead potential concern is one I put aside, telling myself I was being paranoid, but lately I've had a second thought or two. Still, the ring idea is one that could work (and I guess you would wind up with a bunch of 15, 16, or 17mm round disc bases out of the deal. Wonder how much the rings would cost from Ian at Fenris...

[geronimo]

Wonder how much the rings would cost from Ian at Fenris...

Drop me a PM with some sizes & spec

[Major_Gilbear]

As before use US pennies as masters

Why not use Fender washers instead? Saves you smoothing the faces, the hole on one side is covered by the model's broccoli base, and the hole on the other side could take a small magnet if you want (or just leave it open if not).

I am fairly significantly invested in laser-ply bases for my lead collection as it is. Initially the acid + lead potential concern is one I put aside, telling myself I was being paranoid, but lately I've had a second thought or two.

Use an acid-free PU varnish first on the bases then? Shouldn't take too long with a big brush to swipe over all the faces of a big batch in one go. Plus, you get a less absorbent surface then, which is better for gluing or puttying onto. Then, you stick your model onto the varnished bases as normal. As long as the wood doesn't come into direct contact with model, you should be fine*.


With the laser-cut rings from Ian at Fenris, maybe see if he can do the rings in thick-ish plasticard instead? I'd guess that would be cheaper than acrylic, and probably better than MDF in terms of being acid-free.


*Giving old lead models a coat of acid-free PU varnish before priming and then painting them is a classic trick to prevent future instances of lead rot.

[SotF]

I've gone towards the 30mm lipped bases, partially for this reason in that they work well for concealing the integral bases

[eilif]

Interesting solutions here.  As for the method in the OP, premixed concrete cement/patch would probably work fine. It's as good as glue, easy to use, has lots of good texture, and dries quite quickly. I've used on many miniature bases, though as yet only for holding scenic elements in place not yet  miniatures.

The ring solution is really cool, but I really don't care for the inward bevel on the bottom of the bases or the tall strait sides..

I'm not entirely sure this might not be a solution in search of a problem. In the past I've done various things to hide cast-on bases, but usually I've found that one can simply use a bit of filler of some sort to hide the base.  Barring that, the lipped 25mm square bases from EM4 are a great solution if they're not too big.


Another solution is to clip the edges of the base, but leave it rough for blending into a rocky terrain scenic base. a few chips of bark, talus or cork and no one will be able to tell the difference. This RP fellow is actually standing on his own base, that has been cut down a bit and glued on top of a piece of bark. The added height helps him blend in a bit better with more modern figures.



More integral bases hidden on the same blog post.  http://chicagoskirmish.blogspot.com/2013/06/night-herons-of-black-crown-part-3.html

Lastly, I don't find snips to usually be too much trouble, but if you've got a motor tool, a 543 shaping/cutting bit will make short work of any integeral base bases, grinding them away in no time at all.