So, how do I wash?

[lugiber]

Ok, I'll admit that I'm a noob when it comes to painting.
But usually when I paint my minis I'm happy with the result.
But then I wash them...
I really like washing my minis. It gives them some contrast that I won't get by just "painting them". But it also makes all colour differences look similar. It just makes the mini look darker. And I really hate spending an hour painting my minis and see all go to waste when I wash them.
So what's your washing ideas?
How would you wash this mini? I really need your expert tips!
The image is of a mini desperately in need of washing.

Sorry but this page doesn't like my pictures. But please klick this link and give me some advice!

Oh, crap

.

[Norm]

Different ways,

some folks at the end of painting cover the whole figure with a single wash (say Army Painter Soft Tone) and others will apply a wash specifically, so skin and earth colours only might get the brownish soft tone, while sky blue pants might get a blue wash and red Zouave trousers a red wash etc.

The former, while looking good when wet almost always dulls the figure when dry and can ruin a nice paint job. Here are some ways to lessen that issue and each can be used as a stand-alone solution.

1. Control the wash, so once it is on, dry the brush and take it over the highlights to lift of the excess wash and try to push the wash into recess. Don't flood the figure, but apply with a precision as though you are actually painting.

2.Dilute the wash 50 / 50 before starting or mix the wash with something like future floor polish, which is an acrylic polymer, so thins the wash but does not weaken the molecular bond in the way that too much water does.

3. Acrylic paint at the microscopic level is very rough and washes stick very easily to it, so highlights get easily stained. Coating the figure in a gloss varnish or future floor polish first and allowing to dry before washing can help keep washes off the highlights. A mat varnish will be needed afterwards if that is your preference.

4. or, once given an overall wash (or dip), go back in with the main colours and do a very quick highlighting job on the raised areas of the figure, so things like cheeks, top of nose, raised parts of trousers next to folds etc. Even a bit of dry brushing on the rims of black hats etc can help.

I think you just have to try what works for you and what relates to your painting style and need (i.e. wargame table ready and speed painting - or something to a higher standard).

[armchairgeneral]

I would just add, if there are parts of the figure you are adding a wash to, make that base colour brighter to start with. For example painting chain mail silver then going over it with a black wash.

[john Hollyoak]

Normsmith points out my problem with army painter washes although there are some who get excellent results with it (Phil Hendry in particular). I have developed a method which won't win me any prizes but does get quick results. I use the GW washes and choose an appropriate colour. For instance, on your mini I would simply wash the spines with agrax earthshade (old name) and the rest of the figure in purple. The trick to avoiding a really dark finish is to base coat with a shade that is equivalent to your normal highlight colour. For example if you were painting a mid blue, base coat with sky blue and the use a dark blue wash. The wash runs off the high points leaving them more or less sky blue, tints most of the colour and collects in the recesses to give dark blue shading. It really is very simple. It may take slightly longer than armypainter but avoids the 'one shade suits all' problem. As an additional bonus you tend to get a lining effect when the washes overlap, for instance if you painted a shirt in blue as above and a shoulder belt in leather, where the washes meet and probably overlap slightly.I generally don't do any highlighting afterwards (tried it, couldn't see any difference so don't bother - saves time!)
I am a big fan of the GW washes overall, readily available, plenty of choice and good value especially by their standards. They seem to be switching to larger pots now which is fine for the commonly used colours but a bit of a pain for the others. Even so I still think they are great tool.

Hope this helps (and makes sense).
John

[lugiber]

Thanks guys!
Your advice is invaluable!

[zippyfusenet]

I'm not a very advanced painter. I make my own wash and use it for everything I paint - a few drops of black acrylic paint diluted in half an ounce of water. I've also used very dark grey paint, which I like, and very dark brown, which hasn't worked as well. I also add a drop or two of dish-washing soap to the mix, it acts as a medium to keep the pigment from breaking up (I don't actually understand the chemistry, but it works much better with than without). I slop this wash over the whole figure. If it puddles too much in places, I'll flush it out again with a brush full of water. I'll keep an eye on the figure while it dries, and flush off any part where the wash seems too heavy, before it dries completely. The wash *does* dull the colors, but I like that effect - I paint historical military miniatures, and don't want them to look too bright. This wash adds depth to my simple block-painting.

Um. The reason I posted at all is the advice to add a drop of dish-washing soap to half an ounce of water. This allows me to mix a very thin wash.

[vodkafan]

I never use washes on my figures, only on vehicles.

[tin shed gamer]

Looking at your figure ,id personally add another layer or two of quite bright highlights,Then a subtle unifying wash of the base colour with a bit of red added,then a darker purple wash,just leading back into the areas where the shadows would be the deepest,then a dark navy blue / bottle green in the deep shadows.
For me the key to what ever method you try ,is drying times.Now I personally use a hairdryer to speed up the time,and help control washes.As your not putting the figure down and have gravity muck around with the washes as they slowly air dry.They're less likely to run,It does take a little practice,too hot and it will dry too fast and leave a clear patch in the middle with a dark edge a sort of a coffee ring effect.Or having the hairdryer on its highest air setting can blow the wash out of its location.But the same issue can be used to keep it under control.
It does save so much time,and can help reduce the sheen you sometimes get with washes.The biggest lesson to learn is just how quickly white metal stores heat.So the actual time you apply heat for is going to be less than you think,and the stored heat is very good at getting washes' to dry evenly.
( I must confess when I saw the threads title . 'With soap and water !'.was the sarcastic line that sprang to mind)

[SteveBurt]

I think there are three key things to make washes work:
1. Don't just slap the same wash over the whole figure - use different washes for different tones. I find a couple of wash colours is enough - a brown wash for warm tones and a grey wash for cool ones (I use inks for this - Windsor & Newton Peat Brown and Rowney Payne's Grey. I also use 'Antelope Brown' (another Rowney colour) which is a yellowish brown, and is perfect for Asian or Amerindian skin tones.
2. Don't always use the wash undiluted; if washing over a pale colour, dilute first to avoid too much contrast.
3. If you want to keep a bright look, go back after the wash has dried and add highlights; this really make the colours pop and gives an effect much the like the '3 tone layering' but in a fraction of the time (cos you only paint once, not three times).

[dijit]

Normally for basic washes, I paint the base colour first. Then apply a wash to add the contact and shadows. Then reapply the base coat, leaving the wash in the recesses and apply highlights over that.

[Duncan McDane]

It's also a good idea to slighty thin your washes ( effectively some kind of glazing ), so you have more control over where the most colour will go. Apply it at first on the whole colour and then apply a second ( and 3rd or until satisfied ) into the recesses... Sounds a bit messy, maybe, but it works for me...