15mm SciFi Scenery - Table!

[anevilgiraffe]

A small update, while finishing 10 cowboys in 15mm:





and i started also same walls. They are just experiments, i'll have to see what will be better to do!



Cheers
Jack

wow, missed this, this is great... how do they look for 28mm? will they be available for sale?

[Sangennaru]

Jack.. do you view the world through a microscope? I love how much detail into your builds.
And I cannot believe that Lotr troll knockoff cost 50c! Was it second hand? Either way, that is a brilliant find Jack.

heh, the troll was an attachment to a Deagostini line, but all the remnants are then gathered in a big discount store. It's in metal, but not pewter nor lead... that's not a great model, but it's pre-painted after all. I would offer to buy some and ship around, but they weight something like 3-400 grams each, so the shipping will be crazy!

wow, missed this, this is great... how do they look for 28mm? will they be available for sale?

They are 40mm tall, not really suitable for 28mm imho. But sculpting bigger ones is not a big deal at all!
Those were just some tests for a set for any 15mm company interested. I've sold many things in the past, but it's a very time consuming activity, and i'm not sure i want to sell things anymore... BUT master sculpts for companies... that's much better for me!
So: if some companies are interested in such a line of pieces, i would give them happily! ^^ if you have any contact or suggestion, anevilgiraffe, please feel free to PM me!

[Sangennaru]

Some updates:

I just finished my first experiment with "hairspray chipping"... i've still a lot to learn, but it's a great start imho!

[FramFramson]

NICE! love it! Also love the little clan/gang/whatever circular tag.

[Constable Bertrand]

I like the small irregular sheets of corrugated iron. Quite convincing Jack. But the paint looks a little flat/even. Any way to put a little more depth into it mate?

Cheers
Matt

[Andym]

I think that looks brill!! I didn't realise how small that quite was! I know you did say it was 15mm......cracking!

[Sangennaru]

I like the small irregular sheets of corrugated iron. Quite convincing Jack. But the paint looks a little flat/even. Any way to put a little more depth into it mate?

Cheers
Matt

exactely my thought.. any ideas? I'm now trying a different approach on the other model, but i would love to find some solutions to give more "light" to the panels. Of course, adding all the small details might do the job, but... well that "blue" colour is waaaay to dars, it doesn't give the needed contrast with the rust!

Please, fellow LAFers, come in my support!

Cheers
Jack

[Constable Bertrand]

After the salt/spray paint try some stippling? I think the spray paints overlap too much and make it "fuzzy", so add some shadows, darker rust, lighter weathered paint etc with brushes?

My 2cents
Matt

[Sangennaru]

Will do for sure... but i think the main problem is the surface color: the blue is tooo dark! what colors are more appropriate for this kind of materials?

[Sangennaru]

Ok, i had two more tests... i need opinions my friends! I don't know what to do! :S

[Mr. Peabody]

Jack, I like what you are doing and would be proud to have it all on my table. Going forward, all I can suggest is start with a much lighter base-colour. I fall into the same trap when painting 15mm kit, trying to work up from a base that is too dark.

I would leave it as it is, because it looks great.. But you could go back and selectively hit certain areas with a lighter coloured filter, a very pale grey? Just to break it up.
Randomly airbrushing a pale tan around the lower areas, to simulate dust, will also contribute a lighter tone to the thing.

Your salt-chipping is really well done, so keep it up!

[Sangennaru]

Jack, I like what you are doing and would be proud to have it all on my table. Going forward, all I can suggest is start with a much lighter base-colour. I fall into the same trap when painting 15mm kit, trying to work up from a base that is too dark.

I would leave it as it is, because it looks great.. But you could go back and selectively hit certain areas with a lighter coloured filter, a very pale grey? Just to break it up.
Randomly airbrushing a pale tan around the lower areas, to simulate dust, will also contribute a lighter tone to the thing.

Your salt-chipping is really well done, so keep it up!

Thanks Mr!

Actually, that's what i've learned so far about chipping:

1 - The base rust coat must be dark

2 - you cannot put a lighter color after the hairspray if you intend to paint in a darker color afterward, otherwise you'll have some white spots when removing the layers

3 - the more layers of color you'll put after the hairspray, the more "roundish" the chipping will be. With a single layer you'll have a very dispersive chipping, with a lot of tiny scratches around. You can also make "linear scratches", and that's great. If you start puntting 3 or 4 layers of paint, the chipped areas will be wider and more definite (as in the white barrier).. I wouldn't say it's bad in all the situations, but it's mostly avoidable indeed.


So basically, after the dark rust layer i should just start with the darker colours, masking all the panels i want to have painted in different tones. Another possibility would be to paint the various corrugated parts with the brush, but the layer will be thicker...

Aww. that's so complicated! >___<

Anyway, some scale reference with my thumb.

[Mr. Peabody]

I find it is easiest to work with a light grey or metallic base, do the chipping and then add rust effects after, as rust tends to bleed all over top of everything anyhow.

But as they say, there are many ways to skin a cat, and you are getting awesome results.

[Sangennaru]

I did some more experiments on the other building,.... i made a HUGE mess, but at the end something nice came out!







please, any suggestion is really appreciated!

[Constable Bertrand]

Looking good Jack. I like your chips, and base metal sections.

... What about rust streaks? I've also noticed in real life some sheets are fully rusted and some are not.