Quick Shade Dip - Does it work?

[Ray Rivers]

Okay,

So last night I was giving Warlords web site a really good going over and to tell you the truth I'm a bit interested in doing a Roman Army (yet again).

Problem is I don't want to spend huge amounts of time painting a large army, and I would want a large army, but it would seem that by using their Quick Shade Dip and shield decals one could bang out a large Roman Army fairly quickly.

Problem here is, I have never used the dip method and have no idea how it works.  So a couple questions, the big one first... does it work?  And the second, almost as important question, can you use it on the flesh as well?

I would brush on the dip not dip the dip.  I only do that with nachos.   

Thanks for any comments.

EDIT:  Maybe I should have put this thread in the workbench... oops.

[Argonor]

Yes, you can brush it on, and yes, it works on the flesh.

The effect on the flesh is very much like the old 'flesh wash' if you use the right shade - but you have to start with a very light skin colour.

[Aaron]

It is basically the same as "the dip". I experimented with "the dip" years ago. It does add instant shading, but the overall effect produces a figure that looks "dirty". You can improve it immensely by going back over and quickly highlighting it with the base colors. To my eye it makes a major improvement and does not take much more time at all.

You can get a large force on the board in short order. It won't be beautiful, but it can look pretty good.

[JollyBob]

I've seen some of the Warlord Games stuff done with it, and it can look pretty effective, at least from the distance of a tabletop.

If your aim is to get as many figures on the table in as short a time as possible, then go for it. You wouldn't win any painting competitions with it, but that's not the point, is it? 

My advice would be to use it very thinly, and build it up in layers as you need it. Otherwise it can make the figures look dirty like Aaron said, and give them a peculiar greasy sheen.

[Ray Rivers]

Thanks guys.

Okay, so a highlighting is in order... was wondering about that.

And generally, use a "lighter than you want" color expecting it to darken... correct?

Has anybody every tried it on 15mm figures?

I have a box load of 15mm ancient mini's and was wondering if this might be a way of getting them painted quickly.

[Svennn]

Have a play with some Future/Klear floor polish or similar. Way back when (70's) we used to paint "quick" armies by adding a little black or dk brown to gloss varnish. Very, very similar results. I still have an ECW army done this way somewhere.

15's are possibly better candidates to be honest.

[Uncle Mike]

I use the new G.W. washes and find them quite good...a little pricy, but quite good. I start by dumping a couple pots full into a bigger container and 'cutting' it with about 30% Future Floor Wax...that takes care of the price. Then slop it on your base coated/highlighted fig with a big, old brush. Give the fig a shake over your rubbish bin and set to one side to dry. I don't use 'em on everything, mostly fur, chainmail and business suites. If you are doing a large amount of skin I would either dilute the wash further for a more subtle look or paint the skin 'brighter' than normal as the wash will darken it. Or do as already stated and re-highlight the model. Overall washes are a great lazy sollution to the brain-bending rigors of hand painting a massive force.

[Ray Rivers]

Thanks for the comments.

Looks like I have another project to add to an already rather long list.

[marko.oja]

I painted around 150 kroot (yup, that's GW) for a 40k tournament using Armypainter Quick Shade, and I'm happy with the result. Yes, I could have painted the minis better, but it would have taken me easily three times as long, so if I'm ever going to do a similar project I'll use dip again.

By the way, in case you're wondering how long a jar of dip lasts - brushing on dip on 150 minis takes roughly 2/3 of a jar.

Marko

[JollyBob]

Sorry to resurrect this, but there is an interesting article in the new Wargames: Soldiers and Strategy magazine about the QuickShade dip system.

It is really just a four page advert, but it shows a lot of "how to" pictures and WIP shots. It focuses on the Perry plastic ACW figures, but the techniques will be the same for Romans.

I'm actually quite impressed with it, especially the flatness of the spray varnish. Worth picking up a copy if you can.

[Glitzer]

I did all my ACW union troops with a shader (not the QS one, a homebrew that is not WYSIWYG, but dries in 1h). I achieved great results with post shading highlighting for the not so dark parts of the minis.

[racm32]

here is a side by side comparison. The left figure has had Army Painter quick shade brushed on and the right one has not.

[Eric the Shed]

I use dip all the time - painted not dipped

Without it I would be lost 

[Blue in vt]

Anyone use dip on Orcs and Goblins?  I have several units of Savage orcs (think primitive orcs with skins for close etc.) that I would like to get on the table fairly fast.  Since they are mostly bare flesh...ie green...I was thinking of base coating in green (air brush?) painting up the other parts then doing the Dark Tone Dip (black) then touching up with final highlights....

Does that seem reasonable?  Should I try something other than army painter?

It will be a hard pill for me to swallow...I feel dirty when I spend less than two hours on a figure... ....but I would like them on the table sooner rather than later...and I can always strip them in the future when I have more free time....

Cheers,

Blue

[Dr.Falkenhayn]

i have used Strong Tone Dip on some Orcs 


i mostly use Dibs for small Scales like these 10mm Figs