Vehicle's as objective markers .

[Kommando_J]

The base's are bespoke,I normally make at least one to fit the vehicle when I make the master.but If you would like to know how I make them,then I'm happy to post how.
Mark

Do tell, I have use for large bases for objectives, scenery and vehicles.

[tin shed gamer]

 The bases are made from 2-3mm plastic card,texture is nothing more than fine sand,and small.area's of sharp sand or GW's basing sand.
The trick is to use Liquid plastic adhesive,not Pva or super glue.
paint nomore than a 30mm square with plastic glue and cover with fine sand,and repeat until your base is covered.Any gap's in the sand when you've finished with the fine sand,simply drop a little liquid glue in and add a larger sand to the gap.
The whole base will normally dry with in ten minutes.Unlike Pva or Super glue which can require hours to dry when you apply sand to it in large areas(and it gives off some nasty fumes)before you can paint it.
If I'm adding items to a base (chairs tables etc)I pre paint them and super glue them into place and add texture after super glue is dry.
You get very little or no pile up of sand on figures etc when you use liquid plastic glue.
I normally add a pin through the base and into the underside of the model.
Before I attatch the model to the pin and the base I super glue static grass around the pin where it meets the base(it makes a softer looking join and gives additional depth and strength to the joint.)
The reason for the pin is to give an additional ankor point and to take some of the preasure of the wheels.Not where they meet the base but the joint on the body.
I hope this helps.Mark

[Kommando_J]

Thanks for the tips! I have been having problems with miniature basing  clumping together so it looks like all my miniatures are fighting at a quarry. Do you 'seal' the bases at all? I find something of the basing stuff crumbles off even after painting.

[tin shed gamer]

 I've not had the texture come away after painting with this method,as the liquid plastic glue makes the sand part of the plastic card,unlike pva or super glue which is just a thin layer on top of the plastic.
That is not to say there is no loss,as there will be some sand to shake off when the glue is dry.If you want insure theres no sand being rubbed loose when dry brushing,You can give the surface a light brushing with an old tooth brush.But nine time out of ten it won't need it.Only once in the last sixteen base's I've painted have I ended up with loose sand sticking to the wet paint on a brush.(Only because I got big and clever with myself and didn't wait long enough for the glue to set ).
I don't seal the base's because I've never thought too,or had cause too.
Mark

[tin shed gamer]

I have been a bit sidetrack with doing a tutorial on how to make a tri engined Fokker Fvii plane for nothing!
actually it'd work for Vbcw,or Spain( Not a civil war I know anything about,other than most of world used it as a weapons testing ground.)
Getting back to my point I havn't forgotten I said I'd do a Ft17 command tank/marker.
Mark.

[Kommando_J]

I will hold you to that, and thanks for the tips, my main problem is the sand  looked to chunky before it stuck out like my mini was wandering through a quarry.

[tin shed gamer]

Not a problem,I've only got the radial engines and prop's to cover.Then I'll get started on it,Just have to remind Simon to bring an ft17,next visit he forgot last time so I ended up doing the plane.If you get time take a look,its been moved from workbench to the How to ,section.Its a fun project you can do in uder twenty hours.

[Golgotha]

That signals/comms vehicle is fantastic and very unusual keep up great work.

[tin shed gamer]

Actually I had a clear out of concept models and that one's gone to live Down under!But thanks I've the ft17 to do,As soon as I've done the tutorial on Traction engines and WW1 heavy guns,Same way as the Fokker Fvii.(For free basically).