Milliput or Greenstuff?

[Truscott Trotter]

Am about to do some conversion work on WW2 figures- plastic and metal

have used greenstuff reasonably successfully in past but have run out so need to order more putty
So opinions gratefully received

[cuprum]

I recommend using both of these materials at the same time. Then you will get the best properties of both of them. "Greenstaff" perfectly sticks to almost any basis and is very plastic - but it can not be worked after curing. If you add 50% "Milliput", this disadvantage can be eliminated.

[Truscott Trotter]

Thanks for the tip - I have not tried that before

[beefcake]

I concur. Greenstuff and milliput. Mixes together easily and, as said, gives you the best of both worlds.

[Truscott Trotter]

Do you mix all 4 components in equal parts?

[Keith]

I add a bit more yellow than blue to the greenstuff mix myself - keeps things less 'elastic' than a 50/50 split. Same when I combine with Miliput.

[Rich H]

miliput for hard surfaces greenstuff for organic and soft surfaces.
The miliput can be worked once cured but greenstuff is more easily worked when wet.

[Captain Blood]

Greenstuff for me. Left Milliput behind years ago.  GS is just much easier to work with I find. Agree with Keith though - 55% yellow to 45% blue is what I use.
Never tried Procreate putty though, which many professionals have switched to. Anyone know the benefits of Procreate over GS?

[Truscott Trotter]

miliput for hard surfaces greenstuff for organic and soft surfaces.
The miliput can be worked once cured but greenstuff is more easily worked when wet.

Ahh so milliput for armour and greenstuff for bags and bedrolls?
Have you ever mixed the two Rich?

[beefcake]

Greenstuff for me. Left Milliput behind years ago.  GS is just much easier to work with I find. Agree with Keith though - 55% yellow to 45% blue is what I use.
Never tried Procreate putty though, which many professionals have switched to. Anyone know the benefits of Procreate over GS?

I've found that procreate is less "bouncy" (holds it's shape better when worked with) than GS. Better for making harder/sharper points etc. Not a huge difference though. It's been a while since I used procreate though so others might have a better viewpoint.

[Rob_bresnen]

For bigger jobs I  mix pro-create with greenstuff 50-50 to get a putty that is sticky and easy to sculpt. Fore small things I just use GS.

[Keith]

Another tip - Greenstuff is much easier to work with if you let it cure for 15-20 minutes before sculpting. It reduces the working time but you don't have to deal with the really sticky 'clingy' phase which makes life more difficult.

[Ultravanillasmurf]

I use greenstuff for soft stowage, glueing things together, reinforcing and covering joints.

I use Milliput for bases, smooth joins, filling holes in plate structures (holes in armour) and where a smooth surface is required. If you look on the Sherman above you can see here I have used Milliput around the pistol port.

The ability to sand and drill Milliput is really useful.

Coincidentally, I am using both on my Panzer Ib.


The next stage is to fill the gaps on the superstructure body join with Milliput and blend in the greenstuff.

In one of the old SF&Fgaming magazines(Harbinger?), I think it was an ex GW person called Tammy recommended using a Milliput slurry to smooth the surface of white metal where there was surface pitting (some figures can have less than optimum surface smoothness). It would also work on 3D prints and where you cannot reach with sandpaper.

You can also put surface texture on surfaces that are meant to be cast, such as Sherman turrets.

I find greenstuff is quicker and cleaner to use but Milliput still has its uses.

I have never tried mixing them.

[dampfpanzerwagon]

This Blog entry might help.

http://dampfpanzerwagon.blogspot.co.uk/search?q=green+stuff

Tony

[ARKOUDAKI]

I have used both ProCreate and Greenstuff (like Richard aka Capt Blood said, Milliput is just old....I don't use it anymore) for most of my figure work. Following advice from Bill at Footsore, I also include around 30% of Fimo Classic (white) in my mix give me more time to work as well as allowing the putty to smooth out better. It works for me. I have mixed ProCreate and Greenstuff together (50:50) but haven't found it all that different. So I am currently sticking with my Greenstuff and Fimo (70:30) mix, which works for me.

One problem I have found with Greenstuff is that on a few conversions I ended up with it drying very oily...sorta like the Greenstuff was porous and oil came out. I asked Alan Perry about this and he suggested that the Greenstuff might have gone off....has anyone else had this experience?

Overall, when playing with putty I have found it best to read what others are doing but also figure things out for yourself. One thing for sure, the best sculpting tools I use are a good set of clay shapers!